Is this typical or a lot of rust? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 15, 2018
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Location
Denver, CO
New to LC's but very excited to own and work on one. I'm looking at an '06 that spent a good number of years in Michigan. It's solid in all regards except the undercarriage rust. I know a lot of people say any rust is too much but I'm not sure I'll be able to find one in the north that is 100% rust free. I've attached some images (using a dropbox folder, img links were not working). Would you buy this or pass and wait for less? I'm accustomed to working on 70's ford trucks so my rust threshold is a bit askew.

Besides that, the rear is a little bouncy so I'm guessing it also needs new AHC shocks but I'm confident I can dig into that and replace what's needed.

Dropbox Folder
 
That's fine man. That's not bad at all. Here in MI brand new cars come from the factory like that.
 
Thanks for the reply, the flaky rust (paint?) on the welds around the shock brackets don't worry you?
 
I would have that treated with a rust inhibitor like Krown or even Fluid Film it yourself ASAP and enjoy it for a very long time.
 
Why are the skid plates missing?

Also I would not touch that unless I inspected it in person. The pics look either edited or have some kind of filter on them so to me it’s difficult to tell what’s rust, what still has black paint, what is regular dirt and dust accumulation and what may be leaking underneath (something is definitely leaking if you look at the passenger half of the oil pan).

Also the rust looks inconsistent. Frame looks like it has plenty of rust but the shot where you can see the front portion of the rear axle looks 100% black which makes no sense as that would develop rust long before the frame. Was the axle painted before? Too many questions pop up when I look at these pics. I am maybe overthinking it but I don’t take rust lightly and neither should you.
 
Thanks for the info. I didn't realize there was suppoaed to be more skid plating than what is there. Actually, I took the pictures quickly while looking at the vehicle, no filter. I think that might be the the combination of being twilight and a flash.

I should have taken more pictures but my main concern was the heavy rust on the brackets/welds. The rust on the frame rails in general was pretty minor. Also pretty minor on the axels. To my knowledge the only thing replaced besides PM (timing chain, etc.) was the steering.
 
What rust?

Looks fine to me but then again I don't have a phobia with rust. Guess that's just what New England does to you. I'm sure plenty of people here will tell you to forget it, pack your bags, and head out west to buy one.
 
Yeah, I grew up in Cleveland, rust is something you see everyday. That said, every company uses different alloys and I wanted to make sure this isn't atypical for a 12 year old LC.
 
Is the front skid plate the only one that comes from the factory and that is missing? I wonder if they forgot to put it back on when they replaced the steering.
 
Looks like it is missing two other belly pans. One plastic one that covers front diff and the skid plate that covers transfer case, but looking at the pics on my phone make it hard to tell. Living in WI that rust doesn't bother me but depending on where you are located now you may be able to find one in better condition. I wouldn't pay a premium for this one but also wouldn't reject it either, it would need to be right price and history.

For what its worth when I changed the fluids on mine (whole life in midwest but minimal rust) all of the said missing skid plates and belly pan bolts broke. So one would guess that is why they did not get put back on.
 
History is pavement princess, as far as I an tell. I think the last owner took it skiing once or twice. Interior is flawless and exterior has one little scuff, no signs of rust on the body panels. What would you guys knock off the price for frame rust?

Does refreshing the suspension usually require globes or the whole accumulator assembly? I think all said and done it would be ~2k at a shop to get the rear done but I could probably do globes for $700 and whole assemblies for $1200.
 
I have had my 2004 for about a month. My rust is same, maybe worse. After a lot of research, i took on the 1) removal step with mechanical: brush grinder, needle scaler(best), sanding belts(pull over frame rails, torsion), drills with wire brushes, then chemical: krud kutter 2) rust converter from Eastwood over everthing...while hitting the worst spots withPOR15 3) protection: Eastwood rust prevention paint and rubberized rust prevention paint. Also used prezsure washer, air hose etc to get grease, degreasers etc.. off. Finishing off with cavity wax sprayed into frame rails and a couple coats of fluid film as maintenence. Less than 300 bucks..... but easy 30 hours of filthy work. And one trip to ER. Im sarisfied......and not going to worry about it.
 
Mine is about as bad, and I didnt think i had much to worry about until i found a rust hole in my frame.
zWIK8SF.jpg

I'd look thoroughly through everything if i were you.
 
Mine is about as bad, and I didnt think i had much to worry about until i found a rust hole in my frame.
I'd look thoroughly through everything if i were you.

This is what scared me when I looked at my first LX 470 (look in my post history if you care). It wasn't what I could see that bothered me. I thought, "what CAN'T I see?".
 
Mine is about as bad, and I didnt think i had much to worry about until i found a rust hole in my frame.
zWIK8SF.jpg

I'd look thoroughly through everything if i were you.
Hmmm.... thats a hole alright... that is boogie man i have spent so much time trykng to prevent. While i have dodged it thus far and hope to fend offthe rust monster(no road salt here)....i have to ask... what did you do to repair that? Was it expensive??? And did you find.more holes?
 

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