Need help identifying this part (1 Viewer)

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May 10, 2018
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Southern California
I’m working on my 84 FJ60 to get it to past smog. Im following the Toyota service manual to see why my Air bypass hose is blowing air at idle. It turns out that it’s not getting enough vacuum from a valve that is on the intake with three nipples on it. I’m not sure what this part is called or whether it is still available new from Toyota. I have included a picture of it. The service manual called it a fuel filter?? I tried cleaning it with carb cleaner; but it didn’t help. Anyone know what that part is called and where I can get a replacement? Can it be cleaned? Thanks.

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Gas filter but it just lets air thru. Some say it has a filter inside it. Can you blow thru the ports? I have a feeling toyota no longer sells it. Someone should have a good used one.
 
It’s pretty restrictive when I blow into it. It must be clogged with carbon. I was able to search the part and the part number is 90917-11027. It appears that Toyota still have them for sale. I’m just going to get a new one; need to pass the emissions here in California. Thanks.
 
It's called 'gas filter' because air is a gas, and if it's cracked open, there is a wad of filter inside it.

It is usually possible to rejuvenate a restricted unit by running a 1/16" drill bit down each of the nipples and running a larger bit up into the bottom.
 
FJ40jim, I’ve already ordered one. I tried using a drill bit like you suggested through all the nipples and main hole. I didn’t use a drill motor; just by hand. It still restrictive. Should I force it with a drill and go deeper? Just wondering if I’m being to gentle with it. Thanks for the tip.
 
The new gas filter came in today and I test the flow of the new one by blowing into the three nipples and it was blowing into a straw; no restriction what so ever straight through the other end. So I installed it right away thinking for sure this will fix my problem. NOPE. I’m still getting air blowing out of the air bypass hose at idle. I have tested the functionality of the two VSV that are connected to the ABV and they tested ok. So I hooked up a vacuum gauge to that port to see what kind of vacuum I was getting and I was only getting about 15 inches. Is that enough to make the ABV work properly? If not I need to see what is causing my vacuum reading to be on the low side. Any thoughts from you who have worked on these emission system? Thanks.
 
To the air cleaner.
By the way; these are my readings from my first failed California smog test:
Prior to taking it in for the inspection, I changed the oil, replaced the PVC, gave it a full tune up , new air cleaner element, replaced all the vacuum lines and rebuilt the Aisan carburetor.

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The test readings look rich, but if the AIR system was pumping to the exhaust ports, that would at least dilute the pollution considerably.

Looking at the FSM, with engine idling there should be manifold vacuum to VSV1. Is there?
It should be passing that vacuum to the big Air Switching Valve that all the AIR hoses attach to. Is there vacuum at the ASV?
The ASV will direct air to the exhaust rail if it is moving correctly inside.
If ASV is getting vacuum, but bypassing air, then ASV is stuck.
 
Check your AIR pump output, and put a lot of E-85 in a nearly-empty gas tank, and try again.
 
Ok. I went to check if the ASV was getting vacuum and it was. The vacuum was about 12 inches. I checked to see if air was still being bypassed and it was. But, not completely. I test to see the difference between the air coming out of the bypass hose with and without vacuum to the ASV and it was a big difference. I would say the air coming out with vacuum was about 10% compared to that of without vacuum. So, is it normal to have a little air being bypassed or should there be no air at all? Maybe the ASV needs cleaning to have a better seal? Should I take the ASV apart to clean the insides. How hard is that to do?
 
Have you tested your air injection check valves? There's one on the air rail at the top front of the engine and a second one attached to the exhaust pipe near the drivers side firewall. NAPA sells one that will fit for around $18. The threads are correct but the other end is smaller in diameter. Check out your smog pump too and make sure it's working properly.

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I don't know of a way to check them without removing them. They should only allow air to flow in one direction.
 
Cps432, how would you go about checking those valves without removing them?

The one on the firewall ahead of the exhaust pipe is not too hard to remove and clean. I would just assume that it is restricted... most are if they haven’t been cleaned recently. I cleaned mine with Seafoam and re used it. If it’s clogged it will reduce air flow into the exhaust and cat.
 
The one on the firewall ahead of the exhaust pipe is not too hard to remove and clean. I would just assume that it is restricted... most are if they haven’t been cleaned recently. I cleaned mine with Seafoam and re used it. If it’s clogged it will reduce air flow into the exhaust and cat.
I've done that too in the past. There is a rubber seal inside that becomes brittle over time, however, and when that happens it's time to replace.
 
I’m on my 4th failed attempt. I’ll be joining this conversation.
Me too... I'm 3 months into repairs... but I also had a lot of non emissions related repairs. Start with your vac lines. Check your air injection system and clean it out. Replace what is no good. Do you have read outs of your tests?
 
Cost 432. How much smaller is the diameter for the hose end of the check valve? Do you just have to tighten the hose clamp a little more to make it work? I’m going to order a couple from Napa just incase I need it. Are you also trying to get your FJ60 to passed smog? I see your in Colorado; wonder if the emissions requirements are the same as CALIFORNIA. Thanks for the tips.
 

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