Builds Marion Rising: 1974 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)

[ginmtb]

Okay here are some shots:

Most capped off - the bigger line runs to the charcoal canister.

This is where the small line runs to (I think yours is capped):

The header bung was welded closed. Not sure if you have headers or not. But there was a corrugated metal hose that ran up that was removed. I have a photo somewhere in my build thread.

Air rail goner:

Nice and tidy engine bay (albeit a bit dusty):

Hope this helps! I did put in a Trollhole carb designed for desmogged applications. That eliminated the return fuel line hence only one return line from the carb in the photos.

 

[ginmtb]

Here’s the shot of smog stuff removed:

 

[MadMace]

Here’s the shot of smog stuff removed:

View attachment 1720727

Thank you very much for the pictures. I am going to remove the air rail in the next week or 2. I notice that you changed your valve cover--is there any particular reason (I am assuming that you have the 1974 1.5F engine)? I am going to leave a lot of the pieces in, like the charcoal canister. I was thinking that I will hook the VSV up to what is still present (like the manifold, diaphragm, dissy)--unless experience has told others that that is a waste of time.

 

[ginmtb]

I recall reading on Mark’s off-road about the steel valve covers leaking and recommended the 2F so I went that route.

Smog pump and some other things go as well as pictured.

Don’t do like me though and sell your smog stuff. Never know you may decide to sell the cruiser some day and having the original stuff is a nice value add and some places may require it. I just figured I was never going to sell but in hindsight I should’ve kept it.

 

[MadMace]

Just got back from vacation, so back to work on Marion. We were in Burbank so I got to visit Mark at Mark's Off Road and get Marion an aluminum valve cover. Mark has an incredible collection of parts--very nice man. We got all her valves adjusted and the new cover on.

Ran compression tests today and I need ya'lls help. Process I followed was got her to operating temp. I removed all the spark plugs and disconnected all the dissy wires. Choke open. Throttle open. Remote starter. 5 cranks each cylinder. My numbers were as follows:

Dry:
1: 120
2: 135
3: 120
4: 122
5: 130
6: 130

All numbers that I was pretty happy to see, especially for a 44 y/o engine.

I then went to do my wet compression. I put 2 squirts of Marvel Mystery oil into the 1st cylinder. I cranked the starter pressure built to about 130 then lost pressure on the gauge suddenly. It was interesting because the engine stuttered almost like it was going to start then died. The key was not in the ignition and again, all spark plugs were removed and dissy wires disconnected. I then connected the gauge to other cylinders to do a compression test and same thing on the gauge--the needle would jump as the engine turned over but the gauge did not hold pressure. The gauge is brand new, so I would not expect it to malfunction (not hold a seal/pressure).

I put the plugs back in, reconnected the wires and drove her around for a couple of miles--all seemed well.

Does this tell those with experience anything--is the gauge likely faulty or does this indicated something wrong with my engine? Any insight, I would greatly appreciate.

 

[74fj40]

I highly suspect a faulty gauge. The oil could have vaporized under pressure and caused the gauge to fail or read inaccurately.

 

[MadMace]

I highly suspect a faulty gauge. The oil could have vaporized under pressure and caused the gauge to fail or read inaccurately.

I am hoping that you are correct. My plan is to go to O'Reilly's this weekend and rent a gauge--hopefully their gauges are more robust than the one I bought.

I am concerned that I have a head gasket failure. I have continued to run higher temps despite a coolant flush, valve adjustment, etc. The oil level in my pan seems higher than it should--i.e. the level on the dipstick is higher than I would expect. I put in 8 quarts when I changed the oil last, according to the FSM that should be the right amount. I have not seen any coolant in the oil. Also, I don't think that I see any oil in the coolant but the coolant gets mildly discolored from the rust in the system so it is hard for me to tell.

I am going to research doing a leak down test but I am starting to get a little over my head. I want to tread lightly because I am, at best, a shade-tree mechanic and I don't want to do more harm than good.

 

[74fj40]

Maybe buy a block tester kit as a piece of mind. Pretty inexpensive and highly effective. Have you set your timing? Sometimes too advance or too retarded can cause hot running conditions.

Can you get an actual temp gauge installed so you can see exact temps?

 

[MadMace]

Maybe buy a block tester kit as a piece of mind. Pretty inexpensive and highly effective. Have you set your timing? Sometimes too advance or too retarded can cause hot running conditions.

Can you get an actual temp gauge installed so you can see exact temps?

Yes, set the timing to 10 BTDC--I have read that 10 BTDC is a better setting than 7. I also adjusted all the valves. When I flushed the coolant I tested the thermostat and it was functioning normally. I do not have an actual temp gauge installed but I do have an infrared temp gun and checking the temp at the head between the temp sensors gives me reading around 210-220. Temp at the top radiator hose is about the same.

I am not sure about the radiator though. I am thinking about pulling it and having it rodded out/cleaned.

 

[MadMace]

As a follow-up to the compression testing, it was, in fact a faulty gauge. I rented a gauge from O'Reilly's and confirmed my dry compression numbers. Wet compression numbers close to 150 across all cylinders. I think I put in a little too much oil. I didn't retest yet, I've got bigger fish to fry.

I continue to battle higher operating temps--running approx 215 btwn the 5th and 6th cylinders, checked with a temp gun. I have flushed the radiator and block as I described earlier. Thermostat checked and working properly. Adjusted the valves. Made sure that the heat control valve at the exhaust manifold is working as it should. That leaves the radiator. Marion still has her original radiator. When I flushed it, there was black, tar-like goop blocking the drain tube. I ordered an OEM radiator from Mark's Offroad. It arrived safe and sound this past Thursday. Mark's wife does an incredible job packing the boxes. They are a great resource and an awesome team--thanks guys!!

I ended up speaking with FJ40Jim this past week as I am seriously considering a head rebuild on Marion's 1.5F engine. His generosity with his time was amazing. He is incredibly busy but his time discussing some of the issues I have been having with Marion--running too hot, running rough, etc. was a huge help. He thought it is quite possible the higher running temps is related to the radiator--that the black goop in the drain tube was likely some Stop-Leak crap. The Stop-Leak does not allow the coolant to come into contact with the copper the radiator and the coolant does not lose the heat that it needs to.

So, last night the job of getting Marion her new radiator started. We got to here last night, radiator, shroud, and support came out without much of a fight. Typical rusted nuts and bolts that require a lot of patience in removing so they don't get sheared off was the hardest part.

So, I just love the orange 4 blade fans BUT I know that they are a ticking time bomb. I was not planning on changing out the fan but I figured I was here so might as well change out for the 6 blade plastic fan. The fan came off without any struggle.

The pieces were quite rusty--no wonder my coolant has always had a rusty hue.

 

[MadMace]

I figured, well, while I'm at it, might as well check out the water pump. I had purchased an unused one from a fellow Mudder a few months ago in case I needed it. Water pump came off easy and I saw this--certainly looks like some type of Stop-Leak was used at some time, you can see it built up on the inside of the back cover and on the impeller--it's probably in the radiator too, diminishing it's cooling capability:

New and Old:

 

[MadMace]

After I was done with all that I noticed that it would be quite easy to take the undercover off. Given how much surface rust, dirt, grease, and old coolant it had on it, I concluded the opportunity should not be passed up.

Pretty nasty

It has been interesting how starting off to do one task has snowballed into several others--this seems to happen frequently with Marion. Makes sense though, she's almost 45 years old, she deserves the love. Especially with how nice she cleans up--we cleaned off the front passenger side of the engine compartment, beautiful Rustic Green.

 

[MadMace]

Today, re-flushed the block as we did previously. Given that I had the water pump off, also flushed through there. After looking like the water was running clear I stuck my finger in the coolant entrance into the block and got this off the walls:

I have OCD and I just cannot start buttoning things back up knowing that that stuff is likely lining my entire water jacket. So, after a lot of research and thought (muriatic acid vs CLR vs vinegar vs Cascade) we decided to start of with Cascade. Plan is to run this over 3-4 days, alternating where the was is coming in and going out. A trip to Home Depot and an old aquarium pump gave us this--we cap off one and run the wash through the other 2--alternating after several hours of running:

Plan is to do most of the wash through the heater outlet out of the head--I want to displace as much of that crap in the 6th cylinder's water jacket as possible.

If this does not yield the results we would like to see, I have some 9% vinegar that we might run through. Maybe even consider TSP or CLR.

 

[65swb45]

So, how's it looking now? Got that new battery tray installed? Manifold looks like you're expecting a replacement carb.

 

[MadMace]

So, how's it looking now? Got that new battery tray installed? Manifold looks like you're expecting a replacement carb.

Hey Mark--I am so happy you stopped by to check out my FJ40 refresh; now you can see where all those parts you have hooked me up with are going. I hope that you find them being put to good use as we go along.

It's been slow going but we are inching forward. And yes, a replacement carb was needed. The PO had the original carb in a box, disassembled and she was running with a carb from a 1972 FJ40. Fortunately, I met you and you got her ORIGINAL 1974 Cali-Spec carb rebuilt. It came in yesterday and I bolted it on this morning. I was literally giddy with excitement seeing it the original carb back with her--I know maybe sounds silly but I really felt like I had accomplished something that really needed to be done--i.e. getting Marion and her carb reunited. Stamp shows carb built in September, 1973.

I also got that 8-blade fan and spacer on--the 45mm bolts worked perfectly.

The battery tray you sent me is going in as soon as I get the new fuel pump in.

 

[MadMace]

We are moving forward without any rush or urgency. I am most interested in enjoying this time with my little guy and doing it the right way. Many of you have helped me so much to get to this point. Mark (65swb45), there is no way I would be where I am right now without your help, parts, work, and time on the phone--thank you!! I'm gonna need a lot more!!

So, as ya'll know, I am in this phase of the refresh because of overheating. We got the flush and wash out of the cooling system all done, went really well. Have great flow out of the back of the block. Old radiator is out. New radiator is on hand and ready to go in. As we've gone along, I've taken out the pieces that I can and give them a good cleaning and quick re-paint.

We got a new water pump on. Thermostat housing re-installed. New thermostat in. I became familiar with Toyota FIPG (black) for the first time--that stuff is cool. Placed FIPG over each side of the gasket and around the inlet and outlet holes on the block.

 

[74fj40]

Really looking good. I love these refresh threads so much!

 

[MadMace]

I've got some time to do an update. Way too hot here in central Texas to be in the garage for too long.

thebigredrocker was nice enough to send me an outlet elbow for my new fuel pump--he sent it to me at no charge and on his dime--incredibly generous. It fit perfectly to orient the outlet straight up vs at an angle like it came from Toyota. My hard fuel line goes straight up from the fuel pump outlet and not at an angle. Tancruiser was also nice enough to hook me up with a fan to replace the metal fan--also very generous. I continue to be amazed at the generosity of people on this site.

Replacing the fuel pump was surprisingly easy. I followed Mark's suggestion from Mark's Offroad and removed the battery, battery tray and support bracket. Made getting to those bolts surprisingly easy. Also gave me a chance to get all those parts cleaned up and repainted.

New fuel pump with fitting from the bigredraocker. Installed and ready to go.

 

[MadMace]

Where we started and where we are now photos of the engine. We are happy with the progress but still quite a way to go, as I will discuss in subsequent posts.

 

[MadMace]

Now for the frustrating part. Although we have swapped out a lot of parts and have made some great progress I have run into a new concern. I am hoping ya'll can give me some direction. I keep on thinking that I am going to be able to finally drive her around safely only to come to another obstacle.

I got the original carb that was rebuilt by Mark's Offroad on and was making some adjustments to it as per the FSM. I started to notice some white smoke coming up/out from around the areas indicated below--one area seems to coming directly from the bolt that bolts the manifolds to the head. This happened as the engine came up to operating temperature. I have 4 gallons of distilled water in the cooling system as I m doing one last flush prior to adding the 50/50 mixture of distilled water and Prestone. I say this because the white smoke does look a little like steam--but has an odor that makes me think it is smoke.

What does this represent? Do I simply need to replace the manifold gaskets? I continue to worry about a blown head gasket--although the compression tests I have done do not indicated that--at least as far as my inexperience knows.