QUESTIONS: Cruiser Solutions Power Steering Conversion Kit (1 Viewer)

[Tony_Farson]

Would anyone be willing to lend their expertise and experience with a Saginaw based power steering conversion? I purchased a kit from Cruiser Solutions a few months back and am trying to figure out how the heck it is going to work on my 68 FJ40.

1. Does this look "complete"?

Keep looking at the parts and then at my 40 and keep thinking that something is missing between the column and the box. But they shipped me the Borgstein shaft, so???

2. How in the blazes does one remove the OE column?

I am totally new to steering components, so any assistance would be helpful.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Nope, Borgeson shaft and joints will connect the column and gear box.

 

[3_puppies]

Would anyone be willing to lend their expertise and experience with a Saginaw based power steering conversion? I purchased a kit from Cruiser Solutions a few months back and am trying to figure out how the heck it is going to work on my 68 FJ40.

1. Does this look "complete"?

Keep looking at the parts and then at my 40 and keep thinking that something is missing between the column and the box. But they shipped me the Borgstein shaft, so???

2. How in the blazes does one remove the OE column?

I am totally new to steering components, so any assistance would be helpful.

this is an involved conversion, being totally new to steering components, many things can go wrong. steering is a critical component of safe operation.

I'm not a fan of the Saginaw setup as you lose a lot of strength in the front crossmember when you cut it for box clearance. the crossmember needs to be gusseted to retain the integrity.

as for your question on removing the original column, the column and steering box need to be removed as a unit, take steering wheel off column, remove turn signal assembly, remove box from frame slide out of firewall towards front of rig.

 

[Michael B]

You should probably seek professional help with this conversion.

I personally am a fan of the Saginaw setup. I have done it twice and enjoy the fruits of my labor. I have never seen a properly installed kit fail at the cross member cut. Just my $0.02.

 

[4x4veteran]

Nice looking kit.
If it was me I would wait till I got the engine and exhaust back in place so I would have a better idea of clearances.
I used a PS box out of a 70's Chevy. I didn't like the idea of cutting into the frame so notched the bib and went over the frame.
It has been on there for over 30 years and hasn't fallen off even once.

 

[Jdc1]

Make sure you do your research on wiring brake lights and turn signals, the new chevy column signals and hazards don't play nice with the toyota harness.

 

[snaggletto]

Like any big project, don't be blinded and overwhelmed by the forest. Focus on each step, SEARCH and read. This mod has been done many times by others. You can do it!

However, you may want to speak with a fab shop on cutting, welding and reinforcing the front end where the box mounts. The saginaw conversion is very obtrusive and can be butchered if you don't have the right tools and skills.

 

[B y r o n]

Is the steering wheel adapter already mounted to the steering wheel? If not it may be missing. If you don't weld then you need additional help. I also find it strange that they didn't provide an installation manual which would tell you what you need to know during the install.

 

[Downey]

(1) I don't see a slip yoke feature built into the steering drive shaft and lower universal joint. When "wheeling" frame flex causes the length of steering drive shaft to move/change 3/8" in length (we've tested this). Normally your lower universal joint would set screw onto the gear box, then it's back side would be free to travel on the splined or DD steering drive shaft (greased with a boot).
(2) Not sure what the big aluminum block is on the engine compartment side of the steering column they supplied is?? Also, your 1968 would normally not use the blue 4 bolt bearing block they supplied. Read their instruction sheet to see how they want you to make the firewall attachment?? If they did not supply an installation instruction sheet (unimaginable), get mine.

 

[Downey]

BTW Tony, get those boots off those shocks. Shock boots fill full of water (through top breather holes), then water can not escape, sooooo the water sits there rusting your shock shafts. Then rusty shafts moving through the shock oil seals wipes-out the seals, then you have a leaker.

 

[spotcruiser]

I'm thinking the "big aluminum block" is packing.

(2) Not sure what the big aluminum block is on the engine compartment side of the steering column they supplied is??

 

[69LC]

Tony, before you start any fab work or have it done to put that steering box on, consider a scout II, fj60/80 type steering box. It gives better steering shaft routing, no cutting of the front crossmember and a longer drag-link. You would still want to have the mount location holes sleeved and a backing plate welded to the inside frame rail, but with the engine out you have full access. Your new steering column would work with any of the three boxes I listed above.

Lots of people here have done these PS conversions, and the Scout II box is also a Saggy box, just a different configuration.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Opinion Alert!
FWIW, there are thousands of Saginaw conversions out there. The ones that are done properly, particularly on rock crawling rigs that tend see much rougher conditions than pavement rigs (including extreme frame flex), have no issues with the front cross member.

It's proper engineering and the quality of the installation that make the difference.

 

[65swb45]

Opinion Alert!
FWIW, there are thousands of Saginaw conversions out there. The ones that are done properly, particularly on rock crawling rigs that tend see much rougher conditions than pavement rigs (including extreme frame flex), have no issues with the front cross member.

It's proper engineering and the quality of the installation that make the difference.

/this\

I have never seen a crossmember cut for a Saginaw conversion fail.

X4 on following up with the vendor that sold you this stuff. I tell my customers up front that I gladly tech what I sell. I had a nice young man from Newport Beach buy a kit from me last year who probably called a dozen times during his install. All good questions happily answered.

 

[3_puppies]

when installed properly they don't fail
when installed poorly they fail.

 

[Tony_Farson]

/this\

I have never seen a crossmember cut for a Saginaw conversion fail.

X4 on following up with the vendor that sold you this stuff. I tell my customers up front that I gladly tech what I sell. I had a nice young man from Newport Beach buy a kit from me last year who probably called a dozen times during his install. All good questions happily answered.

I wish I would have ordered it from you @65swb45 ... They haven't been quite that helpful... I couldn't even get an itemized packing list from them for this order. :/ There is a shop up here called Folbeck Offroad who has a good rep for doing quality work. He said he could put it in. I just want to make sure that the box doesn't mess with the spring/shackle during heavy articulation and that the hard lines tucked in as close as possible.

 

[Tony_Farson]

BTW Tony, get those boots off those shocks. Shock boots fill full of water (through top breather holes), then water can not escape, sooooo the water sits there rusting your shock shafts. Then rusty shafts moving through the shock oil seals wipes-out the seals, then you have a leaker.

Will do! They are OLD Ironman shocks from a PO. They will go in the scrap pile as I continue the teardown process.

 

[Tony_Farson]

this is an involved conversion, being totally new to steering components, many things can go wrong. steering is a critical component of safe operation.

I'm not a fan of the Saginaw setup as you lose a lot of strength in the front crossmember when you cut it for box clearance. the crossmember needs to be gusseted to retain the integrity.

as for your question on removing the original column, the column and steering box need to be removed as a unit, take steering wheel off column, remove turn signal assembly, remove box from frame slide out of firewall towards front of rig.

I have heard a lot of people say this about the Saginaw (after I purchased it!) I should have asked BEFORE. Live and learn I guess. I will take advice about sleeving and gusseting the cross member and I plan to weld a plate between the rails, cross member and bumper too.

Thanks for the input on the column removal!

Make sure you do your research on wiring brake lights and turn signals, the new chevy column signals and hazards don't play nice with the toyota harness.

I heard this too, thanks for pointing it out! I am pulling the stock harness and installing a 26-circuit weatherproof offroad harness. I hope this will resolve any conflicts.

 

[Dynosoar]

All of this is why I did FJ60 steering on mine.

 

[3_puppies]

can you return the setup?