'03 LC constant beep on start up with ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF light. Beep/Lights off after 10 seconds (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 17, 2013
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3
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Location
SE Louisiana
Just replaced my wheels/tires last weekend so I *have* been messing around with the wheel assembly. A couple of days ago during start up, the ABS, VSC TRAC, and VSC OFF lights illuminate and a constant beep appears for 10-15 seconds, then all lights/beeping turn off. Brake pedal/braking performance has not been affected. No other symptoms other than the initial lights and beep. Any help here?

I've read some previous threads in a search but the other threads are having a constant beep that will not turn off, or a beep that is turning on and off randomly while driving. Suspects from these prior threads include, ABS speed sensor, or Master Cylinder or Accumulator. Fluid levels are near "MAX" line.

Where/how should I start diagnosing this? Any suggestions?
 
Sounds like the classic ABS/master cyclinder pump failure.

Search for that.
 
This has now progressed to a constant beep/light situation that will not turn off while the ignition is on. It is no longer going away.

I pulled the code from the DLC under the hood with a paperclip and got code 51. I cannot for the life of me find a list of the codes online for this device. Closest I've come is an 80-series that pulled the same code and it was pointing to an ABS pump failure. "ABS pump motor is locked, open in pump motor ground."

Can anyone help get a list of codes posted? Not P-codes, but DLC codes.
 
This has now progressed to a constant beep/light situation that will not turn off while the ignition is on. It is no longer going away.

I pulled the code from the DLC under the hood with a paperclip and got code 51. I cannot for the life of me find a list of the codes online for this device. Closest I've come is an 80-series that pulled the same code and it was pointing to an ABS pump failure. "ABS pump motor is locked, open in pump motor ground."

Can anyone help get a list of codes posted? Not P-codes, but DLC codes.
Try this
 

Attachments

  • di_0015 abs etc.pdf
    61.1 KB · Views: 566
Thanks! Code 51 is pointing to the Hydraulic Brake Booster Pump Motor. Is this the Master Cylinder or is this the ABS motor attached to the side of the MC?
Its not the master cylinder. There is one electric motor that drives a hydraulic pump which provides hydraulic pressure for your brake assist system - it charges the accumulator and that stored fluid under pressure is used to assist normal braking force, ABS, ATRAC and VSC “smart braking”. It’s a brake assist system, there isn’t an “ABS motor” as such.
 
Its not the master cylinder. There is one electric motor that drives a hydraulic pump which provides hydraulic pressure for your brake assist system - it charges the accumulator and that stored fluid under pressure is used to assist normal braking force, ABS, ATRAC and VSC “smart braking”. It’s a brake assist system, there isn’t an “ABS motor” as such.

Would this be the culprit? reman 98-07 LEXUS LX470 TOYOTA Landcruiser Brake HYDRO Booster ABS pump motor | eBay
 
Could well be the root of your problem. I’d rule out corroded motor connectors or an open cct harness first off. The rubber boot on the underside that covers these connectors is suppose to keep moisture out, but it also keeps moisture in and rusty connectors are very bad conductors. I’d also check the resistance of the motor, should be 36 ohms iirc and I’d apply power directly to the motor to see if spins freely with no moaning and groaning.
 
Having some issues here. I just swapped my brake motor and installed a rebuilt the master cylinder while I was at it. Proceeded to bleed the brakes, power on-no ignition, from passenger front right, driver front left, passenger rear right to driver rear left. However, the ABS/Brake beep/light is not gone, nor are my brakes functioning properly. The accumlator has begun making noises that it's never made before, and the brakes have barely any pressure and take 80% of travel just to stop it from rolling in my drive way. I was going to take it on a gravel road once I was done to activate the ABS, but I can't take this on the road in this shape. Any suggestions? Am I possibly missing something? @PADDO You've been some help so far so possibly you've got some thoughts.
 
Having some issues here. I just swapped my brake motor and installed a rebuilt the master cylinder while I was at it. Proceeded to bleed the brakes, power on-no ignition, from passenger front right, driver front left, passenger rear right to driver rear left. However, the ABS/Brake beep/light is not gone, nor are my brakes functioning properly. The accumlator has begun making noises that it's never made before, and the brakes have barely any pressure and take 80% of travel just to stop it from rolling in my drive way. I was going to take it on a gravel road once I was done to activate the ABS, but I can't take this on the road in this shape. Also, the rear brakes only are creating TONS of bubbles. I've ran through nearly 90oz of fluid trying to get the bubbles out. What the hell is going on?

Any suggestions? Am I possibly missing something? @PADDO You've been some help so far so possibly you've got some thoughts.
 
Just ran through the bleeding process again Driver front, pass front, driver rear, pass rear. Still a bunch of bubbles coming through the rear only. No improvement in brake feel/grab.
 
I’d check for DTCs, clear them and then recheck for new ones. Not really following your bleeding process so here’s the FSM. To properly bleed ABS I’d recommend following the hand held tester method, but we now use Techstream in place of the old box described in the FSM. Rebuilding the MC has introduced another variable to the original fault symptoms so you’ll need to satisfy yourself that the MC rebuild was done correctly, the replacement motor is good and all air is out of the system.
 

Attachments

  • brake bleeding.pdf
    158 KB · Views: 268
I’d check for DTCs, clear them and then recheck for new ones. Not really following your bleeding process so here’s the FSM. To properly bleed ABS I’d recommend following the hand held tester method, but we now use Techstream in place of the old box described in the FSM. Rebuilding the MC has introduced another variable to the original fault symptoms so you’ll need to satisfy yourself that the MC rebuild was done correctly, the replacement motor is good and all air is out of the system.

Thanks for the reply PADDO. I've throw in the towel this morning since I don't have much spare time and I need to get this back on the road. It's currently being towed to my local dealer to have the local Land Cruiser pro figure out the issue. I'll respond here with the ultimate diagnosis/repair that he finds.
 

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