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I used the Bars Leak with carbon on my Tacoma about 20,000 miles ago because it was showing and losing coolant in the Blackstone report. I had to completely flush the system several times, add a new thermostat and heater valve and eventually a new radiator(it was shot, it wasn't the goop's fault). It plugged it up though. The leak has been gone for two years and everything is running at least as well as it was before the sucker started using coolant.Well more bad news for Brienne. Had the head resurfaced and new headgasket done 9k ago. Not going to do that again, debating on a headgasket sealer and 3k oil changes to see if i can stop the wear. Any better ideas?View attachment 1748180
Truck is in good shape, and locked . Will be a forever truck and get an engine transplant eventually but im hoping I can get a couple more years out of this engine.I used the Bars Leak with carbon on my Tacoma about 20,000 miles ago because it was showing and losing coolant in the Blackstone report. I had to completely flush the system several times, add a new thermostat and heater valve and eventually a new radiator(it was shot, it wasn't the goop's fault). It plugged it up though. The leak has been gone for two years and everything is running at least as well as it was before the sucker started using coolant.
I would dump in the product, plan on replacing the thermostat and flushing the system extensively after the first 500 miles and see where you end up. If the truck is worth it, buy a used motor and rebuild it in the meantime and if the one that is in there now poops the bed, well, just get the new one ready and toss it in. What is the rest of the truck like?
Dump it in. Follow the directions and plan on having issues with your heating system because it gums up the thermostat and the heater valve. I have a plan to rebuild the 2RZ-FE in my Taco, but I am not going to start gathering parts until it starts burning coolant again. I'll just pull the head, have the valves done, new valve seals, pressure testing, planed until flat, lash adjustment and a paint job for less than $600. It'll be good to go for as long as I live anyway.Truck is in good shape, and locked . Will be a forever truck and get an engine transplant eventually but im hoping I can get a couple more years out of this engine.
Eclipse master race or the cheapies?Ordered NAPA rotors and calipers. Have OEM pads on the shelf.
Took a quick glance and DS rotor looks like it was raked. Don’t know what the hell is the issue.
Eclipse master race or the cheapies?
The more expensive ones. It’s $300 for the rotors and calipers.
If they are painted black, you got the good ones. I went for all four corners a few years ago and I can do quite a bit of stunt braking if need be. They are nice parts.The more expensive ones. It’s $300 for the rotors and calipers.
I just ordered rear rotors and pads for our 100 and Napa(in stock) was more than OEM so Im waiting
If they are painted black, you got the good ones. I went for all four corners a few years ago and I can do quite a bit of stunt braking if need be. They are nice parts.
The more expensive ones. It’s $300 for the rotors and calipers.
With or with out core fees? With core fees the 4 eclipse calipers from Napa were close to 600, got 300 back from core fees though. If I Rememeber right Napa rotors were at least 100 per axle.....do you get crazy discount at Napa?
I know a guy...
The rotors (with brake pads) were $165 for the Eclipse vs $130 for the cheapo. The calipers are $70 each for the Eclipse.
Based on the quick math I don’t think we are much different. Add the California cost of living difference and I think it’s probably about right.
Bought a poor mans switch pro for my beacons/warning light in my 18 wheeler. Hope to try it out and see how it does with the constant vibes in the 18 wheeler. If I like it I might just get another for the 80. Was like $250ish USD, the switches can be momentary or push on/push off. Comes with a legend sheet, but it is mainly emergency vehicle related. I know we have a few LEO's here so they might be familiar with the brand.
View attachment 1748719
Bought a poor mans switch pro for my beacons/warning light in my 18 wheeler. Hope to try it out and see how it does with the constant vibes in the 18 wheeler. If I like it I might just get another for the 80. Was like $250ish USD, the switches can be momentary or push on/push off. Comes with a legend sheet, but it is mainly emergency vehicle related. I know we have a few LEO's here so they might be familiar with the brand.
View attachment 1748719
What all will it be switching
Beacons on headache rack, grille lights, left and right utility/loading/asshats with highbeams on lights, and maybe some interior stuff. Might wire one in for pattern change on the beacons too.What all will it be switching
Cool Is there an optional remote to go with it?Beacons on headache rack, grille lights, left and right utility/loading/a****** with highbeams on lights, and maybe some interior stuff. Might wire one in for pattern change on the beacons too.
No, this setup is barebones. The little remote button unit is all you get. There are a couple higher end options, with like 30 outputs and ridiculous amounts of customization and wireless controls. But those start getting up there in cost! Like 500 to 1500... I got it here locally in Canada since I was goofing around in the rental car [Jeep JK *gasp*] but I think www.Sirennet.com has them for like 220. Look in the switch boxes category.Cool Is there an optional remote to go with it?