Fj80 3fe radiator leak... reacurring? (1 Viewer)

[Arjuni]

Hey guys

I just replaced a radiator in my 1991 fj80 3fe that had a leak at the top seam. Got a new one in, a CSF. Now, get this, I have been driving for ONE day, and already there is a leak sprung in almost near the exact same spot!

I am sure it is a leak, the paint is already gone where the leak is

What the heck... how in the hell???

The old radiator I took out was not oem and I think it was a CSF also.
Are these radiators pure garbage or am I missing something here? Could there be something wrong with my engine that is killing these radiators? Over pressurizing them?

I just did the water pump, fan clutch and thermostat when I switched out the radiator. So as far as I can tell the cooling system should be working properly.



When we got the old radiator out we noticed it was slightly bulged, looked as If it had gotten over pressurized? But that happened with the old gear in there...

 

[-Spike-]

Did you change the cap as well? Is it .9 bar/ 13 psi?

 

[Arjuni]

I did not change the cap out, why would that matter?

 

[Arjuni]

 

[Arjuni]

First pic is of the hole, it’s the silver nick right under the fan shroud ridge, bitt M pic is of the cap

 

[-Spike-]

I did not change the cap out, why would that matter?

Your symptoms suggest that the system is/has been overpressurized. The cap is a pressure release mechanism. If it's not working right, your system can become overpressurized. If it is working correctly, the system cannot become overpressurized.

There are tools that can test the cap, but they are considerably more expensive than buying a new cap. Also, the cap should be replaced periodically, like for instance when you replace the radiator. Especially when you replace the radiator because it has sprung a leak, and is bulged out, like it was under a lot of pressure.

If in fact you had a CSF in there before, the spot that leaked on both is probably the weakest point. Seems a bit unlikely, but possible.

 

[jonheld]

I did not change the cap out, why would that matter?

Because the radiator cap is what regulates cooling system pressure.
108 kPa as stated on the cap is 15.7 PSI. That is the pressure the cap will start releasing excess coolant into the overflow bottle to prevent the system from over pressurizing.
As the system cools, the cap will allow coolant to be drawn in from the overflow bottle and keep the system full.

 

[Arjuni]

Thanks for the insight.

Did I really ruin a radiator just by having my old cap on it for a single day?

To spring a leak in the same spot like that really makes me distrust these CSF radiators, but I couldn’t find any other options. Has anybody recently found any other radiator options for the fj80 3fe? I did a lot of searching on this forum and these seemed to be the only ones still made.

 

[Marco Lau]

i have a CSF on mine, zero problems for about 6 months now since my OEM blew. flushed and replaced new coolant, cap and hoses, works like a charm and engine temp is muc

 

[CJF]

Thanks for the insight.

Did I really ruin a radiator just by having my old cap on it for a single day?

To spring a leak in the same spot like that really makes me distrust these CSF radiators, but I couldn’t find any other options. Has anybody recently found any other radiator options for the fj80 3fe? I did a lot of searching on this forum and these seemed to be the only ones still made.

1) You went almost 3psi above spec, so yes, may have ruined it. You should be able to return it for a replacement though.

2) CSF SUCKS!!! It's a total crapshoot. Some folks end up fine, other end up with leaks and/or insufficient cooling.

3) As far as I know, there is NO good quality, reliable, go-to replacement radiator for the 3FE. I'm frustrated enough that when I pull my CSF, I'll likely take one for the team and try one of the inexpensive, 1-row, plastic tank aluminum rad's. (Spectra, for one, makes them. Maybe Murray also.)

 

[BILT4ME]

1) You went almost 3psi above spec, so yes, may have ruined it. You should be able to return it for a replacement though.

2) CSF SUCKS!!! It's a total crapshoot. Some folks end up fine, other end up with leaks and/or insufficient cooling.

3) As far as I know, there is NO good quality, reliable, go-to replacement radiator for the 3FE. I'm frustrated enough that when I pull my CSF, I'll likely take one for the team and try one of the inexpensive, 1-row, plastic tank aluminum rad's. (Spectra, for one, makes them. Maybe Murray also.)

Does anyone REBUILD their original unit for the 3FE?
I know it's expensive at first, but doing it 2-3 times? I had one on my Studebaker redone and it was $700 to have a new core made and then tanks installed.

 

[flintknapper]

First pic is of the hole, it’s the silver nick right under the fan shroud ridge, bitt M pic is of the cap

It doesn't make sense that there would be a weak spot in the radiator or that the leak occurred in the exact same place. A more plausible explanation (supported by the shiny spot on your radiator) is that something is rubbing a hole in it. Check your hood for any evidence of that. Also make sure your radiator is solidly mounted and isn't moving up or down.

I've had a CSF 2517 in my Cruiser (97) for over 4 years...with no trouble.

 

[Arjuni]

1) You went almost 3psi above spec, so yes, may have ruined it. You should be able to return it for a replacement though.

2) CSF SUCKS!!! It's a total crapshoot. Some folks end up fine, other end up with leaks and/or insufficient cooling.

3) As far as I know, there is NO good quality, reliable, go-to replacement radiator for the 3FE. I'm frustrated enough that when I pull my CSF, I'll likely take one for the team and try one of the inexpensive, 1-row, plastic tank aluminum rad's. (Spectra, for one, makes them. Maybe Murray also.)

You say I went 3 psi above spec, how do you figure that? Was my cap matched wrong to begin with ?

 

[Arjuni]

It doesn't make sense that there would be a weak spot in the radiator or that the leak occurred in the exact same place. A more plausible explanation (supported by the shiny spot on your radiator) is that something is rubbing a hole in it. Check your hood for any evidence of that. Also make sure your radiator is solidly mounted and isn't moving up or down.

I've had a CSF 2517 in my Cruiser (97) for over 4 years...with no trouble.

Good thinking, I’ll check to it’s mounting and look to see if there is something on the hood hitting it.
But, the silver spot is from where the rad fluid sat overnight from the leak and ate away the paint.. same thing happened to the old radiator but a lot more paint was ate up

 

[Arjuni]

And I s

Good thinking, I’ll check to it’s mounting and look to see if there is something on the hood hitting it.
But, the silver spot is from where the rad fluid sat overnight from the leak and ate away the paint.. same thing happened to the old radiator but a lot more paint was ate up

And I should add, it is not in the EXACT same spot, but about 2 inches over, which is suspiciously close

 

[flintknapper]

1)

2) CSF SUCKS!!! It's a total crapshoot. Some folks end up fine, other end up with leaks and/or insufficient cooling.

I'm not willing to say that CSF 'sucks' but I will certainly agree that lately an inordinate number of folks have come forth citing insufficient cooling. Other's have not had the same problems as you say. So I don't have a ready answer to resolve the issue.

Maybe as you say...there is an issue with some of their products. IF you end up changing to an aluminum radiator and have a way to monitor the coolant temps, please post the differences here.

I know recently a member claimed a staggering 27° F. difference, which I find hard to believe IF THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG with the CSF radiator. I am not challenging the temperature difference or his word at all.

 

[jonheld]

The OEM cap that came on my OEM radiator says 88kPa which is 12.8 psi, but that's for a 1FZ-FE.
Like Curtis said, you may be overpressurizing the system. However, I don't recall what the OEM spec is for the 3FE radiator cap.

 

[-Spike-]

I don't recall what the OEM spec is for the 3FE radiator cap.

I checked, apparently it's the same, .9 bar, ~13psi.

I doubt being 3psi over spec would blow a rad, but the old cap may not be releasing at 16. Also, there may be a weak spot in that radiator, I'd be returning it. Or having it repaired.

 

[Arjuni]

I checked, apparently it's the same, .9 bar, ~13psi.

I doubt being 3psi over spec would blow a rad, but the old cap may not be releasing at 16. Also, there may be a weak spot in that radiator, I'd be returning it. Or having it repaired.

A weak spot in that radiator, right next to the same weak spot in the last one!

I would love to try a new brand. Murray really sketches me out. Anybody have any luck with spectra?


And as far as this potential cap issue goes, I should be fine just installing a fresh oem cap, right?

 

[-Spike-]

A weak spot in that radiator, right next to the same weak spot in the last one!

I would love to try a new brand. Murray really sketches me out. Anybody have any luck with spectra?


And as far as this potential cap issue goes, I should be fine just installing a fresh oem cap, right?

A weak spot as a result of the manufacturing process would be an explanation for why it gave out in the same place.

Yes, a new OEM is your best bet. Personally, I hate Stant products, which is the typical popular aftermarket choice.