Throttle Body Removal? (1 Viewer)

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jaymar

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So, while replacing dizzy cap/rotors/wires/plugs/tube seals/PCV and grommet and VC gasket, I thought I would be clever and slip the VC out without disconnecting the TB. Only to realize it ain't going back in that way without banging up the new seals at the least.

SO, now removing the TB for cleanup / hose replacement blahblah.

TO THE QUESTION: in removing the three cables, do I...

Remove cables using nuts on the PS?

and

Count the exposed threads to determine adjustment when reconnecting?

The FSM is silent on this, simply saying install TB in reverse order of removal. And one of these puppies has no exposed threads on the PS.
TB cables.jpg

Thanks for any help!
 
Count the threads on the pass side then loosen the nuts. Loosen either side but it’s easier to hold the driver side nut while turning the pass side. It’s not hard at all
 
Thanks, I was looking at your instructions in another thread as well...
 
Don't remove the cables!

Unbolt the TB and lift it out of the way. Either install a new metal TB gasket or reuse the old one.

Much faster this way.
 
Don't remove the cables!

Unbolt the TB and lift it out of the way. Either install a new metal TB gasket or reuse the old one.

Much faster this way.
Yeah NOW I see that. New OEM gasket sitting here, along with TB cleaner etc.
 
Don't remove the cables!

Unbolt the TB and lift it out of the way. Either install a new metal TB gasket or reuse the old one.

Much faster this way.

Oh, wait--don't remove the cables???
Haven't yet but was about to per FSM.
 
Might as well give the TB a thorough cleaning while you’re at it
 
Oh, wait--don't remove the cables???
Haven't yet but was about to per FSM.

Yeah. If they have been properly adjusted, don't mess with them. Just unbolt the TB, lift it out of the way, yoully have to disconnect a hose on the bottom, and you'll have the clearance, Clarence.

I hung mine with a bungee from the hood latch. My neighbor laid his on the passenger inner fender.
 
Yeah. If they have been properly adjusted, don't mess with them. Just unbolt the TB, lift it out of the way, yoully have to disconnect a hose on the bottom, and you'll have the clearance, Clarence.

I hung mine with a bungee from the hood latch. My neighbor laid his on the passenger inner fender.
What about cleaning it and the IAC?
 
I always remove the cables so I can properly clean the TB/IAC, or to replace valve cover gasket.

Just take note of the tension of the cables, and the location of your transmission kick down cable (take a picture). Its a good time to re-adjust the cables anyway. You just need to loosen one of the nuts per cable, the other one stays in the same location. You can tape it to keep it from moving.
 
Oh, wait--don't remove the cables???
Haven't yet but was about to per FSM.
For what your trying to do, the way Bilt4me told you to do the job is the fast and easy way to do it. What you need to remember about the factory service manual, for the most part they are written by guys that sit in a cubicle, that don't turn wrenches for a living. So to them removal of all those cables might make sense, but to the independent tech in the field, that is billing their customer, it's extra labor cost that's not needed to complete the job.
 
Yeah. If they have been properly adjusted, don't mess with them. Just unbolt the TB, lift it out of the way, yoully have to disconnect a hose on the bottom, and you'll have the clearance, Clarence.

I hung mine with a bungee from the hood latch. My neighbor laid his on the passenger inner fender.

I spray it over a bucket sitting in the engine compartment.

Bungee cords and buckets to avoid turning a few nuts? Seriously, it’s quite simple to do.

#throttlecableaphobia
 
Bungee cords and buckets to avoid turning a few nuts? Seriously, it’s quite simple to do.

#throttlecableaphobia
Yes. It's so I don't have to readjust and screw with something that was working fine, then spend another half hour multiple times to get the cables readjusted and dialed in where they need to be.
 
Yes. It's so I don't have to readjust and screw with something that was working fine, then spend another half hour multiple times to get the cables readjusted and dialed in where they need to be.

There’s no half hour of readjusting anything. Count threads, reinstall as the same. Easy peasy, nothing scary.
 
There’s no half hour of readjusting anything. Count threads, reinstall as the same. Easy peasy, nothing scary.

Maybe not for you, but I pretty much know how s*** ends up going for me. Nothing is easy or fast.
 
Maybe not for you, but I pretty much know how s*** ends up going for me. Nothing is easy or fast.
Have to say I see the battle-scarred vets' "Did this in 6 hours, no sweat." And I plan on 3 days.

I'm guessing this should be cleaned. Not so sure how to clean the manifold side, or whether I should try cleaning the IAC, or even how that air intake hose clip works (the tab is busted off (PO) but the sucker doesn't want to move, and the things on the sides don't seem flexy; am I safe to force it?). Can I use MAF cleaner on IAC?

IMG_553629830cropped.jpg
IMG_553629903cropped.jpg
IMG_553630520cropped.jpg
 
Having some trouble on the third cable (kick down?) to the point that I am considering leaving it on. I wanted to get the TB out of the way in order to gain some room to replace the VSV without removing the Upper Intake...but between this stuck cable and not knowing how I'll reconnect the bottom coolant hose, well I'm a little stuck.

Any tips for removing the transmission kick down cable? I'm sure I can muscle the nuts open but I can't see where the end fits and I'm nervous about putting it back together. That bungee/bucket method is sounding nice.
 
Is there a “general rule” on adjusting the cables? How do you know when they’re set correctly?

Having some trouble on the third cable (kick down?) to the point that I am considering leaving it on. I wanted to get the TB out of the way in order to gain some room to replace the VSV without removing the Upper Intake...but between this stuck cable and not knowing how I'll reconnect the bottom coolant hose, well I'm a little stuck.

Any tips for removing the transmission kick down cable? I'm sure I can muscle the nuts open but I can't see where the end fits and I'm nervous about putting it back together. That bungee/bucket method is sounding nice.
Remove the EGR modulator so you can have more room to work with. I used a pick to run along the cable, and I popped it out in a couple minutes.
 

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