1FZ-FE Spark Plug Seals and Valve Cover Baffles (1 Viewer)

[Will Van]

At the advice of @ZackR I decided to go ahead and pull my valve cover so I could replace the valve cover gasket, PCV grommet, and spark plug seals. Plus reseal the half-moons

I thought I was being super-clever and used a 22mm socket and a rubber mallet to tap out the spark plug seals. Unfortunately, they were all so brittle they just broke. How do I get the remainder of the seal out? I tried a small screwdriver and a pick, but I'm gouging the aluminum. Should I use a seal puller? What kind? I've never used one before and I don't know how they work. I definitely don't want to mar the aluminum valve cover.

Edit: See post #15 for question about valve cover baffles. 1FZ-FE Spark Plug Seals and Valve Cover Baffles

 

[ZackR]

I used two flat head screwdrivers at a 90 degree angle from each other, one to lift up on the seal and the other as a fulcrum. It took some work but I was able to get all of mine out using this method. When you put the new seals in be sure to lube them up with motor oil since the fit is quite snug.

If you are worried about scratching the aluminium you can wrap the ends of the screwdrivers with electrical tape.

Seeing how brittle these old seals are... aren't you glad they are getting swapped out

 

[ZackR]

Before I forget, when reinstalling the valve cover add a few dabs of RTV silicone to the new gasket so that it stays in place during reassembly. I didn't torque the valve cover bolts since they are so small, rather just snug tight with a small 1/4 ratchet.

 

[george_tlc]

Note that the broken part of the seal is actually rubber (before it became brittle like a rock) coating a steel former. So, what is left in the valve cover is the metal insert of the seal.

As above, just use a couple of flat screwdrivers to lever out the inserts and rubber remains. You need to do both sides of the insert (think cylinder shape) evenly. Not a hard job at all.

cheers,
george.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just try not to scratch the CYLINDER part of where the gasket ring seats. The top of the seal in the valve cover is not a "sealing surface", so scratching is less of an issue. Yes, place the screwdriver across the hole, tap it under the seal ring, and pry it out. Don't shove the screwdriver so far as to scratch the far side of the cylinder on the way out.

 

[Will Van]

Thanks for all of the help guys! It sounds like the vertical walls of the cylinder are the most crucial part. I really like the electrical tape idea. I'll work on it more tomorrow and post some results.

And yes, I am very glad I chose to change them out. Thanks for the recommendation @ZackR! Interestingly, the valve cover gasket itself was in really good shape. But the PVC grommet and spark plug seals were toast!!!

I'm going to go ahead and do the oil pump seal and distributor seal as well.

 

[Will Van]

Also, what Toyota FIPG is required for the half-moons? Part number?

Edit: I ordered Toyota FIPG 00295-00103. Hope that's correct!

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks for all of the help guys! It sounds like the vertical walls of the cylinder are the most crucial part. I really like the electrical tape idea. I'll work on it more tomorrow and post some results.

And yes, I am very glad I chose to change them out. Thanks for the recommendation @ZackR! Interestingly, the valve cover gasket itself was in really good shape. But the PVC grommet and spark plug seals were toast!!!

I'm going to go ahead and do the oil pump seal and distributor seal as well.

Do the distributor O-Ring as well! You're already in it!

 

[ZackR]

Do the distributor O-Ring as well! You're already in it!

Worth doing the o ring but I'd recommend getting the engine back together and running first after the oil pump cover seal is done since you will need to set the base ignition timing . At least for me I'd personally separate that aspect of work since you have done so much this far with removing half the vacuum lines, egr, vsv etc... If there is a issue during the restart its better to know the timing is still ok.

 

[BILT4ME]

Worth doing the o ring but I'd recommend getting the engine back together and running first after the oil pump cover seal is done since you will need to set the base ignition timing . At least for me I'd personally separate that aspect of work since you have done so much this far with removing half the vacuum lines, egr, vsv etc... If there is a issue during the restart its better to know the timing is still ok.

Nope, don't need to. Just make sure you don't turn the engine while the dizzy is out.

Mark it, photograph it, pull it, remove o-ring, install o-ring, lube it, install dizzy, set to marks, confirm to pics, tighten down, reinstall rotor, cap, wires. Done.

Just gotta put it back exactly the way it came out.

 

[ZackR]

Nope, don't need to. Just make sure you don't turn the engine while the dizzy is out.

Mark it, photograph it, pull it, remove o-ring, install o-ring, lube it, install dizzy, set to marks, confirm to pics, tighten down, reinstall rotor, cap, wires. Done.

Just gotta put it back exactly the way it came out.

Should work but as fine as timing adjustments are its always good to confirm afterward. Also I'm not sure if @Will Van has done a timing adjustment/check yet?

 

[BILT4ME]

Should work but as fine as timing adjustments are its always good to confirm afterward. Also I'm not sure if @Will Van has done a timing adjustment/check yet?

Realize if you don't do the paperclip bypass, it won't lock it in anyway, and the computer will adjust it accordingly.

 

[jaymar]

I used seal puller, had to adjust several times to avoid gouging.
Did not use oil when installing new ones with bearing/seal driver. PITA but I'm thinking it'll be a better seal.

How about a better shot of that VC label? Mine's long gone...

 

[BILT4ME]

The 1FZ-FE label?
Only 93, 94 had that.

You can buy them through Wits End I think @NLXTACY .

 

[NLXTACY]

This: OEM 1FZ-FE Engine Name Plate

Or this?

 

[Will Van]

So I was able to get the spark plug seals out.

Unfortunately, when I was trying to remove the baffles, I punched a hole through the valve cover. I didn't realize that the center rivets had a thread on the other side for the plastic spark plug covers. I thought I had an inch of material to work with based on the size of the boss, and it was significantly less than that because of the threads for the plastic cover on the other side.

I'm debating whether I should try to get the small hole welded closed, or just leave it since the bolt for the spark plug cover will seal it up. What do you guys think?


Also, because drilling and tapping is risky, I used 8 fasteners (rather than 21) to bolt the baffles back to the valve cover. I was afraid if I pushed it, I'd punch another hole through the valve cover. Should I just scrap this idea altogether? I was pulling the baffles so I could get the cover perfectly clean and powder coat it, but I could always swap to an OEM used cover.

 

[ZackR]

First thing I would ask, why did you remove the baffle? I don't see any reason why it would be necessary.

 

[Will Van]

First thing I would ask, why did you remove the baffle? I don't see any reason why it would be necessary.

For two reasons.

First, I wanted to get the valve cover powdercoated. When they powdercoat, they use a sand blaster and glass beads to prep the item for powdercoat. I didn't want any sand getting trapped under the baffle after powdercoating and working into the valvetrain.

Second, even if I wasn't getting it powdercoated, it's filthy under there. The oil and grime is caked/baked on. I'm glad I pulled it because it was so filthy. So I pulled the baffle to just clean it, even if it weren't going to powdercoating.

Back to my original question - What do you think I should do with the area I punched a hole in? Try to get it welded closed? Or leave it and let the spark-plug-cover-bolt seal it up?

Or, just scrap the idea and go with a non-powdercoated, non-cleaned OEM valve cover?

 

[ZackR]

I'll let others chime in on how to repair but a weld will probably be fine. On mine I used a liberal amount of brake cleaner to get behind the baffle but wasn't worried about getting it perfectly shiny. Stains don't worry me as long as the gunk is washed off.

Powdercoating looks cool but personally I just left mine stock since it stands out from the rest of the engine when all dolled up.

 

[jpoole]

My 2 cents is that if you run the baffle secured on by bolts like pictured take the steps needed to ensure those bolts do not fall out and into the valve train or an oil passage/etc. Concern over that happening may be enough to motivate me to just run an original, riveted baffle VC.