Wiring help ‍♂️ (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 8, 2011
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9
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Location
Fellsmere, FL
I removed my stock dash a few months ago as I started the rebuilding process and am finally to the point of wiring for the new Dakota Digital dash set up. I installed a new battery and went looking for constant hot at the fuse panel and found nothing.

The only hot wire leading in to the cab is the positive wire that was attached to the amp meter in the stock gauge cluster. Nothing else comes “alive” until both positive and negative are hooked to the amp meter.


Is this normal?
 
I removed my stock dash a few months ago as I started the rebuilding process and am finally to the point of wiring for the new Dakota Digital dash set up. I installed a new battery and went looking for constant hot at the fuse panel and found nothing.

The only hot wire leading in to the cab is the positive wire that was attached to the amp meter in the stock gauge cluster. Nothing else comes “alive” until both positive and negative are hooked to the amp meter.


Is this normal?


Check for power where the original ameter was installed, removing it creates a gap in the wiring. This might be a good place to install a kill switch.
 
I removed my stock dash a few months ago as I started the rebuilding process and am finally to the point of wiring for the new Dakota Digital dash set up. I installed a new battery and went looking for constant hot at the fuse panel and found nothing.

The only hot wire leading in to the cab is the positive wire that was attached to the amp meter in the stock gauge cluster. Nothing else comes “alive” until both positive and negative are hooked to the amp meter.


Is this normal?


I would look for a loose or Un-plugged connection such as your 4-wire ignition switch green connector down on your steering column

also check your Fuse Box Glass tube fuses , ALL of them for a Bad one or more of them , they get blown easy & corrode & have broken filaments even easier
 
Check for power where the original ameter was installed, removing it creates a gap in the wiring. This might be a good place to install a kill switch.



Exactly what I’m noticing. I have power to the old ammeter and as long as that is installed, everything else powers up.

So a kill switch would complete the circuit and if needed, could be flipped to kill all power.... I like it.
 
No need to disappear. I appreciate the input and checked to fuse panel and other wiring but there is no current anywhere until the ammeter is installed.


I personally always delete the AMP meter on my 40's & 55's , I simply solder the wires together or splice them , then cover with good heat shrink wrap layers

the AMP meter or guage does not really do anything anyway , and has proved problematic in the past also
 
I personally always delete the AMP meter on my 40's & 55's , I simply solder the wires together or splice them , then cover with good heat shrink wrap layers

the AMP meter or guage does not really do anything anyway , and has proved problematic in the past also


I can see definitely see how it can be a problem point. Thanks again for the help
 
I have to tend to my amp meter this weekend. I must have a loose connection because if I jiggle the big white wire, all power to the vehicle goes away. I am going to buy Coolerman's fuseable link for my 40 for good measure! I at least got my stop lights going so I can happily report that all of my lights in my rig work :clap:
 
I have to tend to my amp meter this weekend. I must have a loose connection because if I jiggle the big white wire, all power to the vehicle goes away. I am going to buy Coolerman's fuseable link for my 40 for good measure! I at least got my stop lights going so I can happily report that all of my lights in my rig work :clap:

Glad all the lights are working. I would agree the your ammeter probably has a loose connection. I crimped the two wires together for the time being so I could do the rest of my wiring and that definitely solved my issue. I’ll have to check in to that fuseable link as well.
 
Kind of a PITA to get to the amp meter especially since I am not inclined to remove the entire dash gauge set up; which mean attacking it from underneath. I need to find a pix of how the wires connect to the amp meter; am sure it is on the net. I emailed Coolerman to just work up an order for me for the fuseable link as well as 15' of the top 10-15 wires for my 69'. Good to have in case I need it.
 
Not to hijack the thread but amp meter connections pretty basic (easy peasy...) per Google search.
 

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