can anyone help with pictures or idea .
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- #3
ty, he needs to make a more friendlier mounts , if I only know about this mounts , would never get them. do not get me wrong the sliders are the best I have seen but welding to the frame can damage the frame
- Joined
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4Plus as well as MAF show it right on their websites. "Welded to the frame"
4PlusProducts | FJ80 | Rock Sliders
MAN-A-FRE 4+ PLUS FJ80 Land Cruiser Rock Sliders (For 1995-1998 FZJ80s)
I suppose it depends on whose doing the welding. I've done it on countless frames and never had an issue.
Not true these frames are not a heat treated frame like some of the tractor trailers that had the "Do Not Weld on Frame" stickers and even the DOT no longer requires the stickers and it is up to the manufacturers. Some manufactures even give you welding guidance. Like @reevesci said belong on the frame will be ok as long as it is a good welder.
INTERNATION TRUCK SERVICE MANUAL
TRUCK SERVICE MANUALTM 5-4210-230-14&P-1FRAMESb.Preheat the frame rail along the crack area to500-600 degrees to burn off excess oil or paintthen permit heated area to cool to 200degrees or below before welding is started.Under no circumstances should the rail beheated to a temperature exceeding 900-950degrees F. since this is the temperingtemperature of the rail.c.Either alternating current or direct currentreversed polarity, combined with a short arcand a beading or narrow weave techniquemay be used. Direct current reversed polarityis recommended or preferred.d.Slag should be removed after each pass andan interpass or constant temperature............ CTS-2037-A Page 6
INTERNATION TRUCK SERVICE MANUAL
TRUCK SERVICE MANUALTM 5-4210-230-14&P-1FRAMESb.Preheat the frame rail along the crack area to500-600 degrees to burn off excess oil or paintthen permit heated area to cool to 200degrees or below before welding is started.Under no circumstances should the rail beheated to a temperature exceeding 900-950degrees F. since this is the temperingtemperature of the rail.c.Either alternating current or direct currentreversed polarity, combined with a short arcand a beading or narrow weave techniquemay be used. Direct current reversed polarityis recommended or preferred.d.Slag should be removed after each pass andan interpass or constant temperature............ CTS-2037-A Page 6
- Thread starter
- #6
I have a TIG welder I will position the mount do a welding clip and have professional finish it , but I still do not see there that extra brackets goes??
If you have a TIG welder, then they are good stick welders too, so just weld the brackets on vertical up with 1/8 inch 7018 electrodes. Be sure to clean the paint and dirt off first. Do a couple of practice runs first on scrap of the same size.
- Thread starter
- #8
my TIG welding skills same as being an astronaut, I will ha pro do it.
The odd shaped plate without holes is a scab plate that gets welded to the frame at the point each leg meets frame .
The three hole plate wleds to the frame and the slider bolts to that. The slider itself doesn't bolt to the frame but to those stubs
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Yep, have welded on lots of Cruiser frames, never a problem.
- Thread starter
- #11
Yes.
Generally you loosely bolt the three hole plates to the sliders with just enough play between the mounts and legs to move them around. Position the sliders where you like them with a jack or stands and then place the scab plates where the legs meet the frame. Whether the mounts are on the front or rear of the legs doesn't matter but I suggest keeping it uniform. If you have one mount on the front of the leg, place all of them on the front. This makes them easier to install and remove.
Tack the scab plates first. The legs are slotted so you can manipulate the mounts into the best position. I usually worry first about the
front and rear mounts when tacking the mounts to the scab plates. A good set of tacks will support the slider without the centers.
Before you full weld , with the front and rears tacked up, you should stand back and double check that they are level and such.
If you're happy, tack up the center mounts in multiple spots. Remove the slider for easier access then full weld. Clean and paint.
There's enough movement before tightening all the bolts that you can set them up tight when you're installing . The triangle pattern will
allow you to drop them a bit if you need to
Generally you loosely bolt the three hole plates to the sliders with just enough play between the mounts and legs to move them around. Position the sliders where you like them with a jack or stands and then place the scab plates where the legs meet the frame. Whether the mounts are on the front or rear of the legs doesn't matter but I suggest keeping it uniform. If you have one mount on the front of the leg, place all of them on the front. This makes them easier to install and remove.
Tack the scab plates first. The legs are slotted so you can manipulate the mounts into the best position. I usually worry first about the
front and rear mounts when tacking the mounts to the scab plates. A good set of tacks will support the slider without the centers.
Before you full weld , with the front and rears tacked up, you should stand back and double check that they are level and such.
If you're happy, tack up the center mounts in multiple spots. Remove the slider for easier access then full weld. Clean and paint.
There's enough movement before tightening all the bolts that you can set them up tight when you're installing . The triangle pattern will
allow you to drop them a bit if you need to
- Thread starter
- #13
ty will try
