The bolts on my FJ60 fuel pump loosened during a trip and the vehicle stalled. One bolt was looser than the other so the pump was skewed relative to the block but still attached. Since I was in the middle of nowhere I decided to tighten the bolts without removing the pump. This enabled me to start the engine and slowly make it home but with an engine knock. After changing pump vehicle starts and idles fine but knock intensity increases with rpm. On inspection one side of the lever arm on old fuel pump was slightly bent. No scarring on eccentric cam lobe as far as I could tell. It appears that I might have damaged the engine. Any comments?
FJ60 Engine knock fuel pump (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mestenorides
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4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Have you investigated the source of the knock (stethoscope, etc.) to pinpoint? Might just be a coincidence, but don't rule anything out off the bat. My '84 FJ60 developed a knock right after a fuel pump failure and replacement. Turns out the cup at the top of one of the cylinder #4 pushrods broke off (it's resistance welded to the pushrod). $5 for a good used pushrod, an hour of work, and the knock was gone.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the comment. Just begun to look for possible sources of the knock. Let you know what I find out. Do see anything inherently wrong with tightening the fuel pump bolts in the the situation I described?
I think @4Cruisers may be on the scent. Sometimes when an engine shuts down due to an out of fuel situation, it's not a normal, graceful shut down. A little mechanical clutziness can occur the last few seconds before it peters out.
I'd remove the valve cover and check the valve clearances while the engine is idling. Also examine the spark plugs and wires to make sure you're getting spark on all 6 cylinders. Running on 5 can make the engine run rough and perhaps create a bit of a knock.
I'd remove the valve cover and check the valve clearances while the engine is idling. Also examine the spark plugs and wires to make sure you're getting spark on all 6 cylinders. Running on 5 can make the engine run rough and perhaps create a bit of a knock.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
This is very interesting to read.... I installed an aftermarket fuel pump possibly two Decembers ago... (maintenance timeline beginning to get fuzzy) then ran it, seemed good but then in driveway a week or so later had it running and it started making a really strange keening sound then almost an electrical crackling and I shut it down. When I tried restarting I wasn’t getting fuel. I pulled the pump and found the arm had gotten broken off.... long story made short is last year when I pulled the head and began that journey rod #4 (possibly 3) was slightly bent. I replaced it new, fairly cheap from dealer.
So what I’m saying is, might be worth pulling the rocker assembly and check your rods.
So what I’m saying is, might be worth pulling the rocker assembly and check your rods.
- Thread starter
- #7
Interesting parallel to my case. Could you describe "keening sound" in greater detail? So what do think caused he bent rods, e.g., interference between the pump lever and cam rotation? Thanks for the comment.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I honestly have no idea. Quite sure that was the time I heard that. Maybe simply a strange effect of the lobe and the fuel pump at odds w/ each other. I think the action of the pump arm getting ready to break and then the actual breaking caused the rod to bend. I don’t recall any knocking at anytime.
Honestly that’s all I can figure. But it’s not hard to pull the rocker. Follow the fsm and have a torque wrench for putting it back together. But I’d definitely check those rods, esp if your getting a knocking.
Honestly that’s all I can figure. But it’s not hard to pull the rocker. Follow the fsm and have a torque wrench for putting it back together. But I’d definitely check those rods, esp if your getting a knocking.
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