Anyone have this locker axle install issue before (1 Viewer)

[loosechange]

So anyone have this install before with installing the axles back in their Fj40 after a locker was installed?

I have a very intelligent and analytical man rebuilding and setting up my rear diff with my original locker from my other rear end that is no good.

The locker is about 12 years old. The locker itself was rebuilt about 8 years ago and hasn’t been used since

The locker is an Eaton full Detroit locker some call it a soft locker

Ken Fransisco is a very awesome guy who when he does the work he’s focused and like an engineer very intense what he does in the work and math etc

We know him here as Zuk.

Well we’ve come up against an interesting issue... which Zuk is going to help me with on his time

Attached are images of the problem

How would I get my axles in? Can’t seem to remove the bolt bolt that holds the center pin/ bolt (crosspin?) in to install c-clips with out losing preload on the adjusters? I thought of a way but heres what the issue is as follows images taken with my phone but should be focused enough

Zuk will be heading to my place on his own to help me do this, he is adamant I don’t try myself.

I can say is if I had to do this myself and remove the carrier bearing cap and try, I may mess up... maybe. I don’t think I’d lose the preload since the other side is still bolted down... but things don’t always go easy for Izzy (that’s me)

So I am wondering has anyone had this issue before?

The locker I believe is old but I really don’t know except over 15. I believe the rear end in my 1972 Fj40 was a later model rear end because the pinion gear on the original rear end is/was fine thread.

Thank guys and ladies for any info you may have had trying to do this

 

[jimkyser]

Isn't RD02 an ARB air locker part number?

That said, aren't there two different Detroit Softlockers for 9.5" Toyota axles, one for full-float only and one for either full-float or semi-float? Do you have the correct one since only one of them will work for your semi-float axle?

 

[loosechange]

Oh snap that’s right my bad ... I was thinking of putting my front arb in back if this didn’t work the way I hoped...

You are so right this is not an arb my bad it’s my detroit sorry and thank you for the correction I will fix that

This for the rear end semi float . Thanks jimkyser for pointing that out

Yes same year end type and year

 

[jimkyser]

OK. Then go to this thread: need help with axle shaft clips on detroit locker

and see how to take off the rectangular cover in your second photo and expose the c-clips.

 

[loosechange]

Ok yes I get that.. I think my previous post may have created a misunderstanding and thank you for the link however...

this I know that the concern is i cannot remove the locking bolt to remove the center pin (rectangular looking part) so I can install the c-clips... that’s my issue.

I have to remove the bearing cap first which is fine I have done this before but withour doing a locker... if I remove the bearing cap I lose preload...maybe on the carrier bearing from the adjuster... but that’s not what I’m asking

If you review that image(s) you will see that the retaining bolt that holds that center pin in that I need to remove won’t come out and it goes through the entire pin unlike a normal rear end pin just goes in deep enough to ride a lip and keep the pin from coming out... this Allen head bolt goes through the entire center carrier pin and with that unable to remove I can’t get the c-clips on

The bolt can only cone out 1/2” and that bolt is really about 2-1/2” almost 3” long...I just didn’t know if this is a typical thing with older soft lockers.

I appreciate the input thank you.

I can not remove the locking bolt for that center pin and I’m hoping someone here has maybe had that issue and may be able to say if tgsts they way it’s made or I just have hella thick bearing caps in this rear end

 

[too tall]

I have one of those. Pretty sure you have to remove the cap on one side to remove that bolt. I usually gently remove the cap, remove the offending bolt then reinstall the cap using the bolts as a guide to line up on the adjusting threads. Then remove the center pin and install the axles and clips and center pin again. At that point remove the cap again(gently as before), re-install the bolt into the cross pin and then re-install the cap again using the same method as you used before. As long as you are kind of gentle and don't knock that side loose you shouldn't have to re-adjust the carrier. You will however, probably have to grind a few teeth down to get the cross pin out. What ratio is that gear set?

 

[loosechange]

4.11 stock fj55 going under the Fj40
My other rear end I assume was a later model... had a fine thread pinion this one is a course thread but it all works went to his home after rebuilt and yet it is a bi*** (my astrics not mud) to finagle that darn pin out but it did just very difficult... he did grinding aliitle would hurt though if we couldn’t get it out
..
God thank you Yes Thank you that’s what I want to do but I am going to wait for the fine gentkeman that built this rear end... ZUK, look up his work here. Amazing. Yeah he wants to make sure I don’t f up. But you hit on the head ... but is this some sort of inherent quality of the locker? That you can risk messing up preload just for one bolt?

 

[pb4ugo]

You'll have to remove the bearing cap per the Detroit locker install instructions. You can check the backlash prior to removing the cap if you're worried about the nut moving.

 

[loosechange]

Yup I was right and you are god send thanks. I was so very concerned that even though I was keeping the other bearing cap on to stabilize the rear center section that is still Izzy it up .
( Izzy is my middle name )

 

[Steamer]

Removal of material on the bearing cap and/or the bolt head is discussed in the FAQ's "HERE"
Too bad the Photobucket pics don't work. I hate it when that happens.

EDIT: I finally found the Photobucket fix. Jeez, all this time I thought the posters where at fault.