Intermittent cylinder 6 misfire- 97 1fzfe (1 Viewer)

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Rod, I "think" the injectors came back from service with ALL the seals/grommets etc - but that's several years back now... oldtimers is setting in :) I re-used the fuel rail spacers. New intake metal gaskets etc.

Sounds like you've had more than your fair share of maintenance/repairs this year. Modern vehicles have way too many hoses, valves, sensors, bits that are all basically essential for them to operate. It's not getting any better with the newer stuff. I look at my near 40 yr old diesel patrol in oz and for all its crudity I wouldn't trade it for a new one - barring a serious drivetrain failure it will continue operating for a long time yet. It can remain noisy,slow,stinky etc - it just always starts and runs - no doubts or worries. There's a total of 5 hoses in the entire cooling system and 2 go to the heater core and could be bypassed in < 5 minuutes :)

Yeah, Dan better be enjoying his retirement - there's a lot of us that certainly aren't enjoying his :)

cheers,
george.
 
Rod, I "think" the injectors came back from service with ALL the seals/grommets etc - but that's several years back now... oldtimers is setting in :) I re-used the fuel rail spacers. New intake metal gaskets etc.

Yeah, Dan better be enjoying his retirement - there's a lot of us that certainly aren't enjoying his :)

I will call RC on Monday to find out. Was also looking at a local place in Rancho Cordova that I could drop them at, but am guessing they might necessarily replace all those bits.

I can relate on my 72 40. Just keeps going and going. I don't remember the last time I did maintenance on it other than oil changes and adjusting those infernal drum brakes...
 
Wow. I was looking up prices on line through Roseville (CA) Toyota and the new injector was $126 ($178 MSRP). When I called to place the order through the dealership they told me that the online pricing was a special setup with Toyota corporate and that their pricing would be different. Sure enough, their pricing on the injector was $204!! Wow. Just wow.
 
Thieves :)

Just admitting that they 'could' sell it at $126 online but over the counter is $204 is enough to make you want to run away asap.

cheers,
george.
 
They said the online pricing was something Toyota corporate did because they are one of the biggest dealers in the area. He also said the MSRP is what Toyota will reimburse them on parts for warranty claims, but the individual dealership owner is free to charge whatever they like. I ended up getting the parts through a good friend who is the parts and service manager at a local Lexus dealership. He said that even the online pricing I was quoted still had a ten percent profit over dealer cost, so the dealership pricing would have been around a 100% markup. Anyway, parts will be here Tuesday and Roseville Toyota will not be getting my business.
 
They said LALALALALALALLALALALLALBLAHBLHALBLBLHAHALBHALBHLHBAHBALBAHLBAHLALOLOLOOLOLLLOLOLSMHSMHSMHSMHSMSH+SMSHSMSHSHSHHSHSHSHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAAHHAHAHAHAHAHALIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIELIE. I ended up getting the parts through a good friend who is the parts and service manager at a local Lexus dealership. He said that even the online pricing I was quoted still had a ten percent profit over dealer cost, so the dealership pricing would have been around a 100% markup. Anyway, parts will be here Tuesday and Roseville Toyota will not be getting my business.

How I read this
 
Yeah, Dan has previously mentioned that dealers are free to charge whatever markup they want.

The best way to deal with ripoff dealers is to let your wallet do the talking. As if the 'online' pricing doesn't have a respectable markup already factored in (I find it hard to believe it is only 10%)...

cheers,
george.
 
So, got it tore down to the injectors. Have a couple questions. The injector appears to have single grommet where it enters the intake manifold (see pic #1). However, the parts catalog shows three elements there, the grommet, an oring (same as on the top side) and a vibration isolator. The element marked as a grommet supposedly is only for 91-92 3FE engines. I have ordered the other two (oring and isolator) but am concerned that I will not have the correct part to interface with the intake manifold. As you can see from the injector photos, the current grommet is rather chewed up and should be replaced. My only hope is that what is shown in the diagram as the vibration isolator (23291) is the same as the grommet on the right side of the injector photo, in which case I will have six extra o-rings. Note the 23291 part does not come with a new injector (23250). Can anyone shed some light on this?
 
While I am in there, should I just go ahead and replace the the other components under the plenum? I replaced the VSV in 2007 (along with the EGR modulator) and am wondering if I should do a PM replacement of the other two components (top and center in this image, though I don't know what they are).
Also contemplating replacing the EGR valve itself while I have everything, though it isn't too bad to do later. Appreciate any recommendations.
 
^ on a '94 and on a '97 the only o-ring/grommets are:

1) one insulator (grommet) on the engine side that sits in the pocket in the head.
2) one grommet on the fuel rail side (not the same as the engine side).
3) one o-ring on the fuel rail side
4) one o-ring for the electrical connector seal

This per page SF-25 of the '96 FSM - and confirmed on the '94 I worked on and on my '97.

No washers or other stuff as per your FSM picture...

I've only ever had the EGR VSV fail, so whether you want to proactively change components - well, I didn't bother... I did change all the vacuum lines under the intake manifold though.

cheers,
george.
 
Thanks, George. My 96 FSM doesn't have a section called SF. I found a pdf version that does have it and it turns out that information is on EG-142 of mine. Hopefully that insulator is what I ordered - we'll see. Odd that my hardbound version does not match either your FSM or the PDF I found on Trollhole's website, even though the version (RM451U) is the same. I think I will let the other bits goes (except for the hoses). Getting fatigued in this hot weather.
 
Here is the old insulator.
old_insulator.jpg
Pretty sure this is the insulator (2329173010 )
2329173010_insulator.jpg

Though it could be (2329141010), which is what I ordered.
2329141010_insulator.jpg
 
The injectors were pretty good according to Dr Injector here in Sacramento. $125, but at least now I know.
20180717_163305.jpg
 
So have the rig all together and trying to start it. 60 seconds of cranking (in 8 sec intervals) yielded nothing. Any ideas? Checked the EFI main and, except for the contacts being opposite what the FSM shows, it checks good. Working my way down trouble shooting. No blown fuzes, all relays checkout as well as the fuel pump resistor.

Replaced fuel filter and #6 injector, plus a pile hoses (vacuum, coolant, and fuel) while I was in there. I also replaced the electrical connector on the loom to the #6 injector because the plastic locking tab broke on removal.

Scangauge is not connecting the truck even when I try to start - shouldn't it be able to connect with the key on? There seem to be fewer lights on the cluster than I recall. I did not clear the P0306 so I would have thought that would still be lit. Could I have done something to the ECU?

I think I can smell gas as the tailpipe, but it is not real strong. Is there an easy way to check fuel pressure short of digging into the banjo fitting on the fuel rail?

Gonna pull #1 spark plug next to check for wetness and then spark.

Open to any and all ideas (including I might have not connected something correctly putting it back together). Very frustrating.
guage.jpg
 
Should not your CEL lamp be illuninated?

yes it should be

No CEL light - no start.
Check the old fusible links
 
If the CEL doesn't light up - then no power to the ECU.... Fusible links ALL good etc?

cheers,
george.
 
There was no spark, so I pulled and reset the hi tension line from the coil to the distro. That brought the spark back (and nigh electrocuted me) and it started up. No codes now. Would having the battery disconnected for a week have cleared them? Idling smooth at 850 now and I am checking for leaks.
20180722_163022.jpg
 

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