Here're some things I learnt along the way while removing AHC from our 01 LX470.
I am removing AHC because I am adding front (T13) and rear bumpers (BIOR) and have sliders (OPOR), and I don't want the AHC collapsing on me while exploring far away.
1. Drain the AHC fluid from every AHC bleeder you can find - and the reservoir before removing anything - and you will still spill some, but its not so bad.
2. Put your cruiser on 4 jack stands and you'll need your jack for the rear axle while doing those shocks and springs.
3. Wrenches. I had ordered a 22mm offset wrench from ebay but the angle of the offset encroached too much on the AHC stuff on the top of the shock - so I went to Harbor Freight and picked these up - much better.
I also grabbed these long handled wrenches to fit on the bottom of the new shock shaft to have something to torque against.
4. On the front shocks - save your self some time and hassle and use a carbide bit and drill a hole in the shock body to hold it still with a screw driver while you unscrew the top. This is what I ultimately did after trying to use a pipe wrench and a strap wrench to hold it still.
5. On the rears - I drilled 1 1/2" holes in the floor panel and used my impact wrench. I had those two shocks off in less time than it took me to drain the AHC fluid! I also installed the two new ones and was able to check torque very quickly from above. I used the long handled spanners above to hold the bottom of the top shaft still - by tying the wrench to the frame cross member.
I have some plugs for the holes. My plan is to put in the plugs (they're zinc plated sink hole caps from HD), and then cover them with some of that adhesive rubber liner (like dynamat - but for roofing
) to maintain the sound isolation and moisture protection. If I remember I'll post pix when I do it.
Passenger side - my 22mm deep socket is on the shock bolt awaiting application of impact!
Drivers side - socket in hole again.
6. I didn't need to remove the brake lines to drop the rear axle enough to swap the springs - it was close though, but I did have to remove the stabilizer bar to get it to go low enough.
More boing (OME 2866 vs AHC stock)
7. I am still removing all the AHC equipment. The hard line from the front right globe to the shock was hard to maneuver out - I considered cutting it - but in the end I was able to get it out. I have a 12mm flex head gear wrench that is making removing the globes easier. The globe assembly is surprisingly heavy. I think removing the AHC will compensate for he weight of my sliders!
8. I unplugged all three connectors from the AHC controller under the dash above the accelerator pedal. Box has a label on it "AHC". I did not remove any fuses or relays, but I did unplug all the AHC equipment. No AHC lights and no check engine or other warning lights are on.
I have installed slee's OME 1.5" heavy kit and have driven it twice including rough dirt roads - and I like it - even though I haven't put the heavy bumpers on yet - in fact this was without any front bumper!
Hope this helpful.
I am removing AHC because I am adding front (T13) and rear bumpers (BIOR) and have sliders (OPOR), and I don't want the AHC collapsing on me while exploring far away.
1. Drain the AHC fluid from every AHC bleeder you can find - and the reservoir before removing anything - and you will still spill some, but its not so bad.
2. Put your cruiser on 4 jack stands and you'll need your jack for the rear axle while doing those shocks and springs.
3. Wrenches. I had ordered a 22mm offset wrench from ebay but the angle of the offset encroached too much on the AHC stuff on the top of the shock - so I went to Harbor Freight and picked these up - much better.
I also grabbed these long handled wrenches to fit on the bottom of the new shock shaft to have something to torque against.
4. On the front shocks - save your self some time and hassle and use a carbide bit and drill a hole in the shock body to hold it still with a screw driver while you unscrew the top. This is what I ultimately did after trying to use a pipe wrench and a strap wrench to hold it still.
5. On the rears - I drilled 1 1/2" holes in the floor panel and used my impact wrench. I had those two shocks off in less time than it took me to drain the AHC fluid! I also installed the two new ones and was able to check torque very quickly from above. I used the long handled spanners above to hold the bottom of the top shaft still - by tying the wrench to the frame cross member.
I have some plugs for the holes. My plan is to put in the plugs (they're zinc plated sink hole caps from HD), and then cover them with some of that adhesive rubber liner (like dynamat - but for roofing
) to maintain the sound isolation and moisture protection. If I remember I'll post pix when I do it.Passenger side - my 22mm deep socket is on the shock bolt awaiting application of impact!
Drivers side - socket in hole again.
6. I didn't need to remove the brake lines to drop the rear axle enough to swap the springs - it was close though, but I did have to remove the stabilizer bar to get it to go low enough.
More boing (OME 2866 vs AHC stock)
7. I am still removing all the AHC equipment. The hard line from the front right globe to the shock was hard to maneuver out - I considered cutting it - but in the end I was able to get it out. I have a 12mm flex head gear wrench that is making removing the globes easier. The globe assembly is surprisingly heavy. I think removing the AHC will compensate for he weight of my sliders!
8. I unplugged all three connectors from the AHC controller under the dash above the accelerator pedal. Box has a label on it "AHC". I did not remove any fuses or relays, but I did unplug all the AHC equipment. No AHC lights and no check engine or other warning lights are on.
I have installed slee's OME 1.5" heavy kit and have driven it twice including rough dirt roads - and I like it - even though I haven't put the heavy bumpers on yet - in fact this was without any front bumper!
Hope this helpful.
