1999 LX470 Disaster-Advice Needed (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Long block will be ordered on Monday...

What i meant was a brand new short block ....send your heads out to be checked and swap parts over... At least you know what you're working with. The unknown service history of used motors unless you get the vin would make be pause. Please don't take this the wrong way but you can afford it based on the other car in your garage. I swapped a used 2UZ into my 80... was stated to have 75k on the motor and drove the truck and used motor from Co to Va... and noticed a slight knock the day i arrive home. The engine still runs ok but I'm ordering a new crate short block from Lexus for the peace of mind.
 
At 236,000 miles my starter acts up from time to time. I will do the work myself but this thread has shed light on some of the hazards associated with this task. I now appreciate the easy job of replacing the starter in some of my other vehicles.
 
The engine did run...it was still warm when I got there...and the fact that it pushed a rod through the oil pan is not lost on me. We ordered a used motor and will begin the replacement on Monday...Here is a pic of the starter...the housing broke upon removal. @flintknapper, yes, tons of unanswered questions. Once the motor is out, I will take a look inside the cylinders...hopefully that will shed some light on the situation. I am still not too happy about the motor being blown up...so I just have to grin and bear it. I guess IF there a silver lining...it makes baselining the new engine easy...

View attachment 1729498
That looks to me like the housing was over stressed upon installation, like it was put in and torqued to force it to seat, maybe at an angle. Or perhaps it was left at and angle binding the gear to the flexplate where it then over stressed the housing causing the failure. Sounds like he should stick to working on tractors.
 
What i meant was a brand new short block ....send your heads out to be checked and swap parts over... At least you know what you're working with. The unknown service history of used motors unless you get the vin would make be pause. Please don't take this the wrong way but you can afford it based on the other car in your garage. I swapped a used 2UZ into my 80... was stated to have 75k on the motor and drove the truck and used motor from Co to Va... and noticed a slight knock the day i arrive home. The engine still runs ok but I'm ordering a new crate short block from Lexus for the peace of mind.
^^^^This...just not too happy about someone possibly dorking up my truck...although...after the truck is repaired, there is a better than 75% chance I will find another one...

Funny thing is, I could have done this myself, and while I would be bummed if this would have been my mistake...it would have just been "one of those things that happens" in the world of wrenching on your own ride....
 
I've kind of skip thought this thread fast, so pardon me if I'm redundant.

Was that the starter picture before or after rod broke?

Scope may or may not be revealing even if something had entered cylinder(s). I say this because hydrolocking doesn't necessarily leave marks in pistons, but metal object will.

On my first 4.7L starter job some years ago, I learned a lesson. I was taking my time and sent the starter and other stuff out to be rebuilt, so intake was off for weeks. I had each cylinder intake port covered or rather stuffed with paper towels to keep out foreign object. It was later winter going into spring and OAT was rising. As temperature climbed the coolant expanded. It began dripping onto head at #1 intake port from throttle body coolant hose, and ran along the length of the head from front to back ports. I didn't see (not in shop) for hours. When I did find the mess, I pulled out the wet paper towels. The ports, that had valves closed, where full of coolant. The ones with open valves filled cylinders. OH shHHHHIIIT! Well I was able to vacuum out the coolant. Added some Sea foam and vacuum it out, then oil vacuumed and more oil. Then once stater back in and all button up, I cranked engine with all plugs out, just to blow out oil or whatever was left.

So I can see how someone doing this a first time. May have easily gotten some coolant in cylinder #1, maybe even #3, then not even noticed. Fire it up and hydrolocked, bending the rod. This wouldn't leave any evidence of marks in cylinder. Then after running for a while, very rough probably, as crank now turning out of balance from unusual force of bent rod and finally rod just lets go as throttle opened to raise rpm clear up rough idle.

Very good chance you'll never know. So you've not much choice but move forward. But, to have a leg to stand on legal, you must give this shop chance to make right. If later evidence points to shop fault, well do what you feel is right. Accident happen!

Now issue at hand is get back on the road, with a reliable rig.

Engine or rebuild:

It may be just a few parts if cylinder walls & heads ok. A local shop I talked to, has replaced just a rod. They actually reused the rings and bearings. This was a 4.7 Tundra. 100K mile later still runs strong and doesn't use oil. This can be a lot of labor as engine must be pulled and pan. I didn't ask if he pulled head or crank but I'd assume just crank. This was done at request of client. Otherwise mechanic would have honed, replaced rings and bearing.

Engine Replacement:

You have a 2UZ-fe non VVTi made in japan. If you find a 100 series engine you can do a direct swap. If you go with a non 100 series engine the parts swapping is extensive, as you'll only use long block, front of engine and intake. But intake must be removed again to get off battery/starter wire harness. Which means a lot more labor. Note depending on year of 4.7L (98 - may 05) of 100 series engine used, none or some of your parts like throttle body will need swapping.

I just did a VVti , non 100 series engine replacement. VVT are hard to find and more expensive. My goal was to find an engine under 150K closer 100K the better. My first engine I got burned on. CL seller sold me one that had water entry into cylinders. The VVt is more inclined to get water entry, but all engine will if left in the weather or overly washed. So I got very particularly in my hunt. I also learned USA made 4.7L VVT have high incident of busted rods and heavy piston slap. So I stuck with engine made in Japan. I found so many scams & scume trying to sell me USA engine as JDMs, high mileage as low, engine that had been weathered or ones intake was remove and dirt fell in ports/cylinders. I found that; no JMS VVt have ever made it to the USA and only a very small handful of non VVT have every. One JDM seller assured me they had what I needed, but would not give picture I asked or VIN. After checking them out, I found, to be very shady. I ran carfax on every good prospect, most where BS.

I narrowed my search to Japanese made engine which is 100 series, GX470, 4runners. I also didn't want any bad frontal impact at high speed. Also engine must be protected from rain and snow. Which means front end intact, so side or rear impact was preferred.

I found one out of WI (rust belt not first choice) with 98K in a GX470, with perfect Lexus service history, new timing belt (old pulley & tensioner, WHY DO THEY DO THAT) no issue and a fresh total with hood & fenders intact. First thing I did this time was run my new borescope (plumber snake hooked to iphone via wifi for $30) down each cylinder. They looked great. Second was get oil pans off to look at and smell lower end, fan-freakin tastic! I had a good one.

If you look through my first link in my signture you'll find threads on engines.

Look through the Unicorns thread and you see overview disassembly, assemble swapping parts and install. With bunch of "while in there, let do it! Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

It's one sweet ride now.

Good luck and ask whatever you like.;)
 
@2001LC, The starter damage was pre-thrown rod. We found a 99 LX470 that was rear ended...motor has 124K on the clock and the seller will provide VIN with motor. And I think you hit the nail on the head...moving forward is the best way to maintain my sanity. I will see what the motor will forensically tell me and go from there. Dropping off the TB kit tomorrow...should have the truck back by the end of the week.

Thanks to everyone that has given their thoughts and opinions, it has really helped me work through this. I will try to capture as much of this with pics as I can...More to follow.
 
Any way that stater motor got wired backwards, when the engine started it was moving in the wrong direction? Without something in the engine, I'm trying to understand how / what forces provided enough torque to simultaneously:
  • Bend/Brake rod
  • Tear the nipple off that actuator
I think alot of us, along with you being able to move forward with this, want to understand what happened, so that we don't do the exact same thing!

Hope it all falls into place for you.
 
@ BillZ260 - the starter flange broke during the removal process (the original gripe that had the LX in the shop)...not associated with the broken rod directly.
 
I'll assume they broke starter more less accidently after removal, knowing they were replacing.

Looking at it reminds me of a shop, 3 brothers owned and operated. I spent a good amount of time there as one brother was a very good friend. Whenever customers weren't around, the language used was all four letters words and very loud, stuff was flying all over the shop....:mad::eek:
 
Last edited:
Got the TB kit...Mobil 1, and Toyota Red Anti-Freeze today...motor arrives tomorrow...
IMG_1236.JPG
 
So, funny thing...I asked what was going to happen to the $825 starter that I had put in the motor they blew up...They offered to put in on the new motor...NOPE. Test the starter that comes on the motor, if it works, leave it. I will pull the new starter off the old motor and have a spare...

So, donor will have 124K on it, baselined TB, H2O pump, tensioners and pulleys...Do I keep driving this truck, or go find another? I do have to say...not a fan of the AHC on the LX470s, so, the wife really wouldn't mind if I swapped to a true LC.
 
Just swap the suspension. The difference between the price of an LC and an LX is greater than the cost of a traditional suspension in my experience. Plus, the LX looks better. :)
 
Wait till the AHC flakes out and then swap with OME (Old Man Emu) if you don't want to fix it. But I'd drive the truck after the new motor is installed. I know the AHC can have issues, but with a little care it can last a lost ass time too. Check the AHC fluid level changes between High and low and count the change on the reservoir marks. I think 7 or more is considered healthy (9 or more?) and if the AHC fluid is dirty then change it out, which will help the ride as well (from what I hear). If you are looking at going OME go over to YouTube and watch the LX470 videos posted by a guy whose channel is called Hoovies Garage. He did this to one he bought and was pleasantly surprised that the ride quality didn't suffer too much. But it was no small job...
 
You guys are making a great case for keeping the "Rhino"...The AHC seems to be working fine...I am just slightly worried that once you crack the systems open you will have problems...
 
So, funny thing...I asked what was going to happen to the $825 starter that I had put in the motor they blew up...They offered to put in on the new motor...NOPE. Test the starter that comes on the motor, if it works, leave it. I will pull the new starter off the old motor and have a spare...

So, donor will have 124K on it, baselined TB, H2O pump, tensioners and pulleys...Do I keep driving this truck, or go find another? I do have to say...not a fan of the AHC on the LX470s, so, the wife really wouldn't mind if I swapped to a true LC.
That is and expensive spare starter. Considering we can only get rebuilt starters for the 100 series these days retail list at $265. You must means the start job cost $825.

I'd return it and use the funds for engine mounts, fuel injector cleaning & testing, spark plugs, coils, vacuume lines or something for the money.
 
If you are looking at going OME go over to YouTube and watch the LX470 videos posted by a guy whose channel is called Hoovies Garage. He did this to one he bought and was pleasantly surprised that the ride quality didn't suffer too much. But it was no small job...

There is no such thing. You could of course prove me wrong by providing a link.
 
That is and expensive spare starter. Considering we can only get rebuilt starters for the 100 series these days retail list at $265. You must means the start job cost $825.

I'd return it and use the funds for engine mounts, fuel injector cleaning & testing, spark plugs, coils, vacuume lines or something for the money.

You are correct, $825 was the entire job...but it is now a sunk cost...the part was $265, had heater tees also done...so, you are correct...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom