Radio won't turn on (98 100-Series) (1 Viewer)

[humpndunk]

For over a year I had a leak somewhere up at roof level that I couldn't find, and it wouldn't allow me to go out in the rain. When I did I'd get water running down inside the A pillar, eventually dripping on my feet. I made the mistake of leaving it out overnight in the rain, and when the horn started blaring at 3am I had to pop the hood and pull the relay.

I've recently located and fixed the leak (windshield not sealing to roof) but since the horn incident a year ago my radio will not turn on. No lights, nothing when I press the power button (and the antenna does not rise.)

I just pulled it out of the dash, and need to know how to diagnose this. With the key off I have constant power on the red/blue wire, and on the dark green. The gray wire in between these, has power when the key is turned to acc. I'm grounding to the brown wire.
Is there anything else I can check before replacing the radio itself? Maybe a reset of a fuse inside the radio?

 

[Ayune]

@humpndunk Have you checked the 20A radio fuse? Below are the wiring diagrams for your '98. The connector in your pic is "R1".

Looks like there's supposed to be constant power on pin 4 (L-Y or blue w/yellow stripe).

 

[Hugh Calgary]

If you need a stock radio I have one. Just installed a Pioneer unit in my 1998.

 

[humpndunk]

If you need a stock radio I have one. Just installed a Pioneer unit in my 1998.

I was hoping to somehow be assured that the radio I have is bad before buying a replacement, but how much do you want for yours?

 

[Hugh Calgary]

Not sure what one goes for. If you are interested I would do some Google searches to see if there is any history for used sales.

 

[humpndunk]

Is it Toyota Part 56808?
Ebay 1: 90-99 Toyota Avalon Camry Solara Radio Cd Cassette 56808 86120-35170 | eBay
Ebay 2: TOYOTA Radio Tape CD Player Avalon Camry Celica Rav4 Sienna Solara 56808 OEM | eBay

 

[Hugh Calgary]

I will check when I get home.

 

[Hugh Calgary]

Radio is model 86120-35170

 

[bodywhomper]

Bumping semi relevant thread.

I have a 99 TLC.

Just picked it up from the body shop due to minor front end collision. The stock radio won’t turn on. It worked fine beforehand. The CIGAR fuse had a 20A fuse. I pulled the fuse (it looked fine) and replaced it with a 15A fuse. The manual says 15A. That didn’t change anything. What’s the next step to diagnose?

ETA: the body shop did a little work on the passenger front panel. Maybe they disconnected something because of the antenna and didn’t reconnect it?

Thanks

 

[bodywhomper]

Bump again

I spent a little more time with this. I didn’t figure out anything and am looking for suggestions. I’m pretty sure the body shop will say, “not our problem.” Before it went to the body shop, the radio and antenna worked, it’s what got the fam calm after meeting the snowbank. Would the body shop have disconnected anything to straighten out the right front panel?

here is what I’ve done (with no changes observed):
-I put a 15a fuse into the CIGAR spot at the kick plate (was a 20A fuse there)
-checked the 20a radio fuse under the hood. It looked fine.
-pulled the head unit out, the connector on the back was in place
-checked the amp. No signs of wear or damage. Both connectors looked good. The pins and connectors that lead to the radio looked good and had no visible signs of problems, like oxidation.

I’m green to car electronics, but can learn. I have a multimeter.

What’s the next step to diagnosis or a good reference to learn from?

Thx!

 

[bodywhomper]

bump again. i could use some advice. i haven't messed with car electronics since the 90's, and I wasn't that good (or patient) with them back then .

i've substantially edited my post because i misunderstood my observations.

-1999 land cruiser. stock amplifier and single disc/cassette head unit

-problem: no power to radio

-i checked all horseshoe fuses on the truck: all good. the CIGAR spot at the kick panel had a 20A instead of a 15A fuse. I changed it to a 15A horseshoe fuse, which had no effect to the radio powering up. i have not confirmed the draw at each fuse.

-connector S6 at the amp: I get B+ 12V at Pin 7 and Pin 16. With key turned to ACC, no other pins are live other that the B+ ones. that seems to be expected.

-at connector S7: No B+ on any pin. With key turned to ACC, i get 12V on a single pin. that's expected.

-at connector R1 (head unit) with S6 and S7 plugged into the amp: B+ power at pin 4 (expected) and ACC power at pin 3 (expected)

-CIGAR spot, i blew the 15A fuse when checking power in ACC with the multimeter. I'm not sure why this happened.

I think that either the head unit is fried or maybe it's not getting enough amps. How many amps are supposed to be coming from the battery to the amp (B+) and when the key is turned to ACC? how many amps are needed to go to the head unit from each line for the head unit to turn on? Anybody know why the previous owner was using a 20A horseshoe fuse in CIGAR? Any other ideas?

thanks and cheers!

 

[DTCsk8er]

I would honestly think the head unit is fried, based on the info you posted. If you are familiar with a meter, you could create a setup that could measure current through the radio and cigar fuses.. but all signs point towards radio IMO.

I recently went through something similar.. no fuses blown, amp shows correct voltage in and out, the head unit (aftermarket) was next.. I pulled out the head unit, unplugged the connector, and checked voltage at the switched and constant pins, which tested good. Plugged the head unit back in, determined it was fried.... and lo and behold it powered on. Something internal to the aftermarket is probably on it's way out for me.

 

[loeky]

Highly and seriously recommend buying an aftermarket single or double DIN radio to replace what you have. Better, newer, and most likely will solve the problem. If it doesn't, I'd be very surprised.

 

[bodywhomper]

Thanks for the response. I still have not replaced the head unit due to other priorities in life taking up my time.

What are some recommendations for a simple single din head unit? do i need to do the amp bypass?

 

[DoughNut]

I don’t have voltage on pin 4. The blue yellow wire. I checked the 20a fuse under the hood. It’s good. If I jump over the ACC wire to the constant power wire then my head unit starts working. Any idea where to start looking?

 

[takingblame]

Hey DoughNut, I am actually at this point right now but opposite. I have power on pin 4 yellow and blue, and my ACC grey wire has no power. As soon as I add 12v from pin 4 to the acc, my headunit works. Not sure if this helps or not. currently trying to figure out why i dont have 12v on the ACC grey wire. yes checked with the ignition in ON and ACC.

 

[jerryb]

ayune's pic should be all you need. Check input and output ACC on the amp, check amp grounds, check radio ground. If you have no output from the amp to the stereo then something is up with the amp.
Assuming the cigar fuse isn't popping

 

[kidphc]

Don't the stock amps have something to do with the way the radios power on these trucks?

 

[takingblame]

ayune's pic should be all you need. Check input and output ACC on the amp, check amp grounds, check radio ground. If you have no output from the amp to the stereo then something is up with the amp.
Assuming the cigar fuse isn't popping

ayune's pics are super helpful, part of why this is so tedious for me is the stock harnesses are not there. The harnesses were clipped off by whoever did the install, so I am flying blind here as to which pin is which.

 

[takingblame]

It was the 10amp fuse in the IGN spot that was the issue to my power problem. But interesting enough, the fuse didnt pop. I was just poking around at the fuse box and wires around it and noticed my headunit would turn on and off. Pulled the 10amp IGN fuse, noticed the terminals on the fuse were corroded and black, but the fuse didnt blow. replaced with a new 10amp fuse and i guess its working now. Super interesting.