Weld on new brackets to replace rotted ones on rear housing? (1 Viewer)

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My rear axle has fallen prey to road salt. Sway bar bracket came apart a couple more are not far behind. I have a very understanding shop that’s willing to do a rebuild with a new housing unfortunately I can’t find one except for unlocked which would have to be converted.
Has anyone ever tried keeping their rear and just welding on the new brackets(The parts that actually go first) from Solid donor as an alternative to rebuilding the whole thing ?
I’d ask my shop but I’m already driving them nuts and they’re going to strangle me
thanks guys
 
I thought converting the rear is not that huge of a deal.

My point is that an axle with rust bad enough that parts are falling off, likely has major rust pitting on the rest of the case.

If swapping to another axle meant that you can have a nice rust free axle, I would go that way.
 
my buddy Rory at moab motorsports made excatly what you needing from scratch for a red land cruiser outta NY hit him up he could ship it and you could wled it on. or swap in a new rear axle.
 
How is your housing itself? If it's in decent shape (which it should be) I don't see why you couldn't cut off all the rusted brackets and make new ones using modified off-the-shelf brackets.
 
I thought converting the rear is not that huge of a deal.

My point is that an axle with rust bad enough that parts are falling off, likely has major rust pitting on the rest of the case.

If swapping to another axle meant that you can have a nice rust free axle, I would go that way.
not sure who the owner was but the red LC in Moab his rear axle was so flaking off rusty they had to use serious welding rods to fix it. bad stuff
 
The only needed changes between a e-locked & an open 3rd axle shell is the stud(s) length (all parts you can swap over) - and if you want to make installing the 3rd member easier, 2 notches in the gasket flange where the ring gear slides past.

The gasket from Mr. T makes a perfect template, but I like most like grey RTV more than using the gasket for the intended purpose.

Not even the factory added weld to the areas where they notched the flange, and really even notching it isn’t even 100% needed.

No reason not to use that open diff axle shell.
 
If the axle is that bad, how is the frame at all the anchor points?
My question exactly. No one wants to hear it, but with that level of rust it may not be worth fixing, frankly. A year from now OP could very well be dealing with a similar problem on a different area of his truck.
 
ummm

IMG_1167.JPG
 
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Driver side broke away

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703046F1-EEB3-43D3-A9EE-AFCF679F460C.jpeg
 
If the axle is that bad, how is the frame at all the anchor points?
Frame seems ok front axle too as it’s coated in oil ....

E396DAC8-C015-46B3-9F10-8494EE6370A9.jpeg
 

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