Builds Living The Mini Van Life - Slow & Mild Build (1 Viewer)

[Miker27]

This will likely be a very slow, very boring thread but I'd like to document what I'm doing this round and hopefully help some folks out along the way. Here's the background. I had been driving a 260k 3rd gen 4Runner that was great - except that it was really remarkably slow. Living in Denver we're pretty choked for air, add some meaty tires, a lift, and a RTT to an already lethargic car and you'll run into some difficulty keeping up with traffic on mountain passes. I thought if I could get what I had into the 4Runner back I'd swap to a GX or v8 Runner. When I stopped by the local 4x4 shop to ask if the swap was a terrible idea they laughed and remarked that I was "ready for the mini van life."

In any case, the trusty 4runner went to a high schooler for $5950 after a mechanics inspection. I think it will treat him well and I was happy with the CO 4runner tax for once

With that out of the way I searched for about a month before finding the new rig. I was initially hoping for an 05+ with around 150k and a dark interior. Instead I found this twice crashed-into 183k 04. I'm going to need to learn some things about body work but the maintenance history check a lot of boxes and less than a week into it I feel good about my $6500 purchase

First on my list is replacing the cv axles (torn boots) and exchanging driveline fluids. I told myself I wasn't going to lift this one since I don't really wheel for the sake of it anymore. Sometimes I find myself on rough trailheads and the extra clearance helps compensate for my mediocre driving. A lot of the time this will be the roadtrip/ski/climb mobile.
Priority should instead shift to this garbage

From the Lexus history, it sounds like this was hit by a "snow removal vehicle" and pushed 2-3 feet. The frame and all checked out fine but it must have done some real damage to the drivers side. Both front and rear drivers side doors are showing rust like this. The front door cladding is missing a door catch and the cladding is half held on by tape. I'm hoping to order new clips/tape and re-attach the front cladding but I'm not sure what I'll find under there. I'm not excited to grind down and repaint the rust but it might be worth a go. I'll see what the body shop near me has to say first. Seems like new junkyard doors would be the best. The second crash was more recent and resulted in the rear drivers side quarter being repaired and repainted so another slightly different shade of silver shouldn't hurt....

That was a lot, thanks for reading!

 

[lgrt]

Looking forward to watching her progress... Slow and mild are good.

 

[Miker27]

A little bit of progress - mostly cleaning and figuring out what exactly needs doing. I did receive some ruggedized crossbars from Apex Overland, though. Really happy with their customer service and shipping time. The bars themselves look good and were easy to install. I don't weight too much but I hopped up on the bars after and they seem solid. It looks like my tepui will line up to bolt directly into the holes in the rack which is a big win. I'll update that as soon as the fiance has a minute to help me move the RTT off the "lolvolander" where it has been living. I went with these bars over 80/20 because
After a RTT adapter from frontrunner it was a similar cost
I semi ghetto-rigged my previous rack setup and never really felt at ease using it.
I don't have a garage at the moment so the RTT lives on top full time - no need to have nay other mounting points

For others removing the rack, here's the little tabs that lock rear trim piece on

I also got around to pulling the rear trim to replace a broken license plate screw - the PO must have cross-threaded it immediately after taking off his plates. Not a big deal but a seemingly silly design. There's a good video for removing the rear interior panel so I won't go into detail there but ill vouch for it being pretty easy.

CVJ axles are ready for pickup and will hopefully go on this weekend. I also want to get to work on the flappy drivers side body cladding. Has anyone taken these off? I'm struggling to find a diagram or exactly what clip types I'll be replacing (hopefully its that easy..)

 

[Webguy]

Are those the steel or the new aluminum LFD bars?

 

[Miker27]

These are the steel bars. The powdercoat seems solid but time will tell if rust becomes an issue

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

I like the rack!

I just ordered the 80/20 parts.

These were very tempting though!

I just have a hard time spending $1k on a simple roof rack.

 

[Webguy]

These are the steel bars. The powdercoat seems solid but time will tell if rust becomes an issue

Thanks.

How far to they project above the supports? Would love to see a side shot of the profile with these bars installed.

Ans any change in wind noise?

 

[Miker27]

Webguy, the bars are probably an inch above the rails. I'll snap a photo next time I'm out. I would prefer them to be a bit lower profile but I suspect they are designed this way to leave plenty of clearance for accessory mount bolts to thread down without hitting the roof.

I haven't noticed an increase in wind noise but coming from my 3rd gen I might be desensitized some

 

[Rock Taco]

Any plans to do an interior door release while you have the interior panel off?

 

[Miker27]

Rock Taco, I'm not sure what you mean? Maybe? When I find time to work on the door I plan to pull off inner and outer panels, push out the dent (hopefully), install a door catch (hopefully), and properly secure the cladding. Unless I find a copious amount of rust. Then I will have to grind and paint or take it to a body shop. In a perfect world I would just find some silver doors at a junkyard and be done with it. Not sure how much shades of silver might differ from year to year or with fading but that seems like the easiest solution.

I was in a bit of a rush this weekend to get the job done before another storm rolled through but CV axles were replaced without issue. A bit on that:
I used CVJ axles and am happy with the apparent quality and service. Felt like the best bang for the buck
I did not remove the tie rod or sway bar from the knuckle and had no issue maneuvering the CVs and and out of place with some care and muscle. I can see how this could lead to damaging seals but it did not seem like an issue as long as you move with care
More diff fluid drained from this vehicle than others I have done CVs on. SO be ready to top that off.
There is some lateral movement where the inner CV attaches to the diff. I believe this is normal, but something to be aware of if you second guess yourself like I do.

I also got my pintle hitch on. I was able to do this without removing the rear bumper cover, just removing the rear lower bolts. I would not recommend this if you have perfect paint - not sure how much flex I could have gotten before cracking became an issue. My bumper isn't great so I wasn't too concerned - I also did not create an issue. It was however a pain. For those with bike racks, the barn door will make contact with a Rocky Mounts split rail. I plan to install a high low hitch which is annoying and adds length that I do not need or want. I might be able to get enough clearance with a more traditional hitch but I'd like to keep the pintle hitch to keep room for a larger spare and the bumper hitch cover I already have.

Better photos of everything soon. I think

 

[nirschl]

Any plans to do an interior door release while you have the interior panel off?

I’d like to know more about this option. Can you elaborate?

Sorry to High jack!

 

[Rock Taco]

I’d like to know more about this option. Can you elaborate?

Sorry to High jack!

I saw this in another thread and thought it was a good idea. I could have sworn there was more about in his thread but im not finding it now look at the top right of the first picture. Im pretty sure thats a rear hatch release from the inside. Ive posted in his thread asking more details.

Coop's GX470

More details here.

Interior rear door release

 

[Miker27]

Rock Taco, that release looks like a good idea but is pretty low on my list right now. I've been keeping busy outside the gx but have gotten some boring general maintenance done (TB cleaned, MAF cleaned, transfer case fluid changed to mobile 1 synthetic)
I also tackled the flapping, duct taped, undone body cladding. I don't believe the PO was a big DIYer but I hope this was his work not that of a dealership. Bodgy goop and glue and totally useless repairs going on here

Most clips were broken and the cladding was largely held on by glue, duct tape, and hope. There's a rail of sorts sandwiched between the cladding outer and the clips. This is glued to the cladding from the factor and had come unglued at some point (this was noted in the lexus owner's history). I used a jb weld automotive epoxy and clamps to re-glue this and I believe this solution will hold. The cladding went back on without too much issue.
Lexus uses 3 different color clips for maximum frustration
gray is 75392-60031
orange is 75395-35070
blue is 75396-35020
I did not need to replace the black clips on the rear door, but if you need to that part number is 75393-60030

 

[Miker27]

Not much new to report here. Everything I've done so far is pretty well documented. Getting caught up on fluids and basic maintenance
Spark plugs changed - looks like they had been done at some point not too long ago though it is not on the service records
Diff/transfer case fluids - drama free & easy
Trans fluid - just one drain & replace so far. The fluid that came out was daaaaaark. I know you can't judge the oils condition entirely on color but I will be doing at least 1 more drain & fill coming up. This process is intimidating but not that bad in reality. I don't normally drain into a pitcher, but I wanted a sense of how much fluid needed to go back in and the condition of what came out

Tires needed balancing so I did the obvious thing and replaced the wheels while I was at it.... these popped up for sale locally and after selling the stock GX wheels I'm only out $80 (and now running a mismatched spare). Seemed worthwhile for the offset and I prefer the way these look.

The RTT finally went on and I eventually found myself with a free minute and kind of clean car to snap some photos.

I have run into a handful of questions that I can't find answers for:

- The car likes to wander slightly. The roads in colorado are pretty rutted in places from heavy truck traffic - such as the Eisenhower tunnel. In these places the car will want to dart left or right. In other places it feels like the car gets pushed around - kind of like the sensation you get being pushed around in a wake when waterskiing. Thats a stretch but I'm not sure how else to put it. Alignment checks out to be pretty close to on spec, steering rack bushing seems to have normal movement and returns to center without making any noise. Any idea what else it could be? Tires aren't great but they seem to be worn evenly and I'd like to run them at least through the winter. Shocks seem to be both sensetive to small bumps and a little wallowy but not exceptionally bad. I'm at a loss on this one

-I've noticed an occasionally humm or buzz behind the dash after relatively long drives, this happens even with everything off. IS there a fan for the radio or something that runs in the background?

Thanks for reading

 

[Rock Taco]

My GX is also Silver and I picked up the same wheels not to long ago but have not installed them yet. I have been pondering if I should paint them or not. Do they use the factory style lug nuts?

 

[Arailt]

For the wandering - I had something similar. Mine would get worse when the brakes were applied. The truck would practically throw itself to the right. The dealer found seized front calipers (both sides) and replaced them. I haven't had an issue since. Not sure yours is the same. Just throwing it out there.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

My GX tended to pull to the right after I installed my lift. I associated it with the lift and took it in for an alignment. After the alignment, it doesn't pull but now it wanders. This to me means it's the result of the alignment setting. I might take it to another shop to get the numbers checked just to make sure shop 1 did a decent job.

I'm guessing your wandering issue is alignment related.

 

[Miker27]

Thanks for the ideas on the wandering - the guys at my local offroad shop seem to think it's just a soft suspension and a sensitive driver. feels possible. I'll probably wind up replacing the cooper HTPs with 265/70 wildpeaks soon and hope that helps. Suspensions will eventually be gone through - trying to choose between buying someone's used 4runner TRDP suspension or running a new Ironman Foam Cell Pro kit - seems like this would be the correct option but I'm not really looking for 2" of lift as I don't want to deal with UCAs or panhard bars if I can avoid it.

 

[estoddart]

I’ve had my Ironman FCP on for about 9 months. I highly recommend it. I went a month without aftermarket UCAs and I think you’d be fine without them. I put on SPC UCAs because i’m on 285/70 tires and wanted a better alignment.

 

[Arailt]

Thanks for the ideas on the wandering - the guys at my local offroad shop seem to think it's just a soft suspension and a sensitive driver. feels possible.

That makes sense. When I put my suspension in "comfort" mode, it bounces around like an old Cadillac and the steering feels excessively loose. Sport makes it a little better.

Ask your shop what your caster number is. You want at least high 3s to 4 positive caster. If it's lower than that, ask them if they can adjust it. You should be able to get that easily with the factory suspension. However, the higher you lift, the lower your caster will be without aftermarket UCAs.