Your Insight on Brake Booster Swap (1 Viewer)

[Delancy]

Everyone said there was plenty of room....

I've attempted twice before, didn't even bother when swapping last Tuesday, because I don't see how it's possible, plus it's a good time to replace/rebuild the relatively cheap master and gasket, anyway.

So I stuck golf tees

Creative use.

You must've previously owned the departed LX, poverty pack 80, 40 and '76 pig, since each had some rigging with tees, too.

Sure I had to bleed the brakes after activating the ABS....

Come again?
(Not like that either, ya' perve)

How'd you activate the ABS pump?

I'm almost thinking of cutting (dremel) the bolts.

If the MC is out of the way, it'll wiggle in there, eventually.

Couldn't replicate how I've done, for love nor money, without spending 10-15 minutes twerking te damn thing, while teaching anyone within earshot a few new words/phrases, but it inevitably falls in.

Granted, that's with the MC pulled which as a distant relative of yours truly proved, Murphy's Law says will fail shortly after the booster swap, anyway.

 

[NLXTACY]

Creative use.

You must've previously owned the departed LX, poverty pack 80, 40 and '76 pig, since each had some rigging with tees, too.

Lol, been using golf tees since I was taught how to do my first complete brake job when I was 19 on my 79 Toyota 4WD pickup. I have a small bin of old tees but I definitely do NOT golf...I like girls

Come again?

How'd you activate the ABS pump?

Oh man, enough for tonight...er I mean...

I don't have the "easy way" figured out yet but I'm close. So activating the ABS still involved driving it and forcing the ABS to kick in.

 

[LS1FJ40]

It's been a few years since I replaced my brake booster but it literally took me 30 minutes. I don't remember exactly how I did it but I remember I didn't disconnect any of the brake lines.

Of course, now that I've said this I will have a royal pain in the ass when I pull it to sand and paint the booster. Because stupid me didn't bother with that before I put it in. Ugh.

 

[PBARDIS]

I have done it in both of mine (96 and 97). You have to turn the passenger side outward first to clear the manifold. Looks like you've got it turned the opposite way.

 

[NLXTACY]

It's been a few years since I replaced my brake booster but it literally took me 30 minutes. I don't remember exactly how I did it but I remember I didn't disconnect any of the brake lines.

Of course, now that I've said this I will have a royal pain in the ass when I pull it to sand and paint the booster. Because stupid me didn't bother with that before I put it in. Ugh.

No ABS so it's a cave right there

 

[LS1FJ40]

No ABS so it's a cave right there

Add it to the list of "Why the 91-92 80 Series is superior to the 93-97 80 series"

 

[OG 91 LC]

I have done it in both of mine (96 and 97). You have to turn the passenger side outward first to clear the manifold. Looks like you've got it turned the opposite way.

Yup. That's exactly what I was thinking.

This has now become a two person job since the plate inside the cabin, where the four bolts go through, tends to not line up with the holes on the firewall; sags a bit. So I need a second person to push up that plate while I try to line up the holes and bolts to get the booster back to the original location. Then I can try the above stated method. Lame.

 

[PBARDIS]

The first one I changed, the 96, I had the same problem of the plate not lining up. I had to have help too. But it took two minutes with two people. The 97, I did two weeks ago. Came out and went back in within minutes. But I'm afraid the new booster is faulty. So, potentially I'll be changing it again this coming weekend. I'm going to run a few traps first, to see if there are some adjustments that will get me a better pedal feel.

Good luck with yours!

 

[cartercd]

I made the mistake of trying to pull the booster straight out (so all four studs were clear), but then didn't have any wiggle room to get past the intake manifold. As PBARDIS said, pull the passenger side outward first to clear the manifold - the driver side studs will still be partially in the firewall. From there you can wrestle it out. The brake line than runs along the upper firewall to passenger side should be unclipped from plastic mount to allow more flex.

Once the booster is out, you will never have such unfettered access to the PHH. The fuel filter, #1 heater bypass, starter, and some other stuff under the intake are more accessible as well. I took this opportunity to cut the PHH hard pipe lower mount with hacksaw blade to facilitate future PHH changes.

 

[mypancreasbroke]

So uh... I've been fighting just to get the clevis off for 2 hours... I don't know how, but the PO's of this truck have managed to make everything hard with their 'uh, this part kinda fits and works' jobs. Honestly the phh was one of the easier jobs I've had to do. I miss having power brakes, but think I'm at the point of just getting this b towed somehwere in the morning and paying someone to do it.

 

[thegadgetguy]

@mypancreasbroke, which part is giving you trouble - disconnecting the clevis from the brake pedal or getting the clevis off the old booster to put on the new one once you've removed the booster from the engine bay? I just swapped out my booster about 2 weeks ago, and fortunately the whole system looked like it hadn't been touched before, so it didn't give me too much trouble.

 

[mypancreasbroke]

Looks like a PO had rigged up some other style of clevis, and stripped it onto the booster like nothing I've seen before. I was having trouble finding a way to get enough leverage on it while holding the 'stem' to get it off. Soaked it in a little penetrating oil, came back a bit later, and I finally got it. Went ahead and ordered a new stock clevis to go ahead and attach to the oem booster I'm putting in. Hope to have real, easy brakes again shortly.

 

[thegadgetguy]

Glad to hear you got it off! I have a much greater appreciation for the power brakes after trying to stop without them.

 

[sunrk]

On the manual versions it is a little more awkward, to deal with the seriously heavy clutch there is a servo assist booster for that as well, makes it a bit cramped in that area but still doable with some care and patience.

regards

Dave

Interesting as that's not a feature of any Oz 80's but may have been an option for high-spec configs (like the VX possibly). Just a brake booster - no clutch booster.

The brake boosters don't appear to be available new anymore, and there seem to be quite a few different p/n's. For example for my year of 80 (1992) there are 44610-60570 up to 7/92, and from 8/92 up to mid-1993 there's 44610-60770. Not consecutive so maybe cannot be interchanged.

For 1997, the p/n is 44610-60803, but it's possible that might be 'ABS compatible' as ABS would have appeared in 80's starting late 1992 (for Oz market anyway).

My 80 doesn't have ABS or a clutch booster. It is a DX (pov-pack aka base model with barn doors) though.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
For 1997, the p/n is 44610-60803, but it's possible that might be 'ABS compatible' as ABS would have appeared in 80's starting late 1992 (for Oz market anyway).

My 80 doesn't have ABS or a clutch booster. It is a DX (pov-pack aka base model with barn doors) though.

The booster has nothing to do with ABS. Many Toyota boosters interchange, often the differences are small, like location of the vacuum fitting, etc. Have put ABS boosters from 4Runners on early FJ40s, etc, with great results, sometimes takes a bit of fiddling, like a spacer, internal or external one way valve, but simple. Have little experience with other market rigs, my guess; a later booster will fit an earlier '80, may take a bit of fiddling, like longer/shorter vac line?

 

[Dave 2000]

Interesting as that's not a feature of any Oz 80's but may have been an option for high-spec configs (like the VX possibly). Just a brake booster - no clutch booster.

My 80 doesn't have ABS or a clutch booster. It is a DX (pov-pack aka base model with barn doors) though.

Your spot on, mine is a VX with ABS, clutch is incredibly heavy when the engjne off and vacuum is depleted, so in total there are three vacuum pieces, the brake servo, the clutch servo, and a backup vacuum reservoir all piped together with a warning sensor.

Regards

Dave

 

[sunrk]

My clutch is the same engine off or on. I've got no idea what a 'fluffy light' clutch feels like in any vehicle let alone a 4wd.