installing c channels (1 Viewer)

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g-man

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I bought a set of C channels from Trail Tailor and contemplating this job. Waiting for some nicer weather. Looks like I need to ...(EDIT..I am editing and deleting steps as I work through this)

1.(EDIT) Use a cutting torch or air hammer (with several spare chisel blades) and Cut, grind drill or drive out any rivets that hold the c channel to the outer frame and not holding any other support or mount. Removing the head of the rivet will NOT loosen the remainder squeezed inside the frame. Plan on cutting the head off and driving the rivet body out of the frame. I spent hours drilling and grinding only to realize the air hammer was MUCH quicker.

2. remove the spare tire and unbolt and remove the cross member. 14mm nut and bolt

3. unbolt the exhaust hanger at the driver side from the frame. 12 mm

4. Cut, Grind and or drill/drive out the body mount rivets. Not necessary to support the body as there are body mounts rearward near the rear bumper on the frame and aft of the c channel that will hold the body in place. It is a good idea to check the body mounts forward and rearward of the C channels to make sure they are intact and will hold the body. My body mounts never let loose from the frame even after all the rivets were removed.

5. jack the rear of the truck up put the frame on jack stands forward of the rear axle.

6. With the axle hanging and wheels off the ground, remove the rear spring from the shackle

7. remove the shackle from the shackle mount

8. remove the shackle mount from the frame cutting/grinding/drilling out the rivets

9. drive out any remaining rivots and remove the old c channels. Use a step drill to open up the rivet holes to accomodate the Trail TAILOR bolts. DON'T accidently drill out the mounting holes for the exhaust hanger...these are threaded holes but look much like rivet holes.

10. cut and weld new metal into the existing outer frame, also a good idea to weld around the body mounts and shackle mounts.

11. Drill out with step drill or gradually larger drill bits all holes so they can accomodate the new bolts. Wire brush clean treat rust and paint the frame and and the c channel

12. bolt the new c channels in place while bolting the shackle mounts and body mounts and cross member too. It is important to get both c channel sides in place along with the cross member BEFORE putting any bolts in.

13. install the exhaust hanger bracket

14. reinstall the shackles and leaf springs.

Removing the gas tank will help you to access the top of the frame (for grinding sanding rust etc) Will give you more headroom. Will make it safer as your going to throw sparks around. I did not remove my tank...but I know my truck and it is not leaking gas anywhere and I used a board above the frame and below the tank to help divert sparks.
 
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9. Remove the cross member that hold the spare tire by drilling out the rivets. Mine are bolted in not riveted

Also after changing my gas tank this weekend, removing the gas tank will not only make life WAY easier but give you room to maneuver.
 
Couple of pointers.

If you have access to a decent air hammer it makes the job go by much faster.
Cutting oil is your friend when drilling through those rivets.
No need to unbolt the body mount.
I would a needle scale to clean up the frame rail that was covered under that c channel.
Easy job, juts time consuming. Pry bars will help also.
 
What about removing the rear bumper?

Trail Tailor included a 1/2 inch stepped cutting bit. Will this get thru all those rivets before the bit wears out? Will it help to cut and X in the head of the rivets with a cutting wheel before drilling, to hold the bit in place?

@reevesci can you shed some light on this project, specifically techniques on removing the rivets? Probably the biggest headache of this job. info on your bit? Obviously you included it because you thought it would work well. I imagine grinding, cutting with a cutting wheel, beating out with a 5 lb hammer and punch are combined possible techniques.
 
I grind off all the heads I can get to. Then use a punch to drive the rivet stubs out. The step bit is to enlarge any hole that needs it after the rivets are removed.

Some guys use an impact chisel to remove the rivets too. I used to use a torch with a scarf tip on some of the harder to get to rivets.

It's a PITA job for sure.

J
 
Wish I was better with a cutting torch. There's a YouTube mechanic I watch that uses one like a scalpel.
 
The cutting torch is to close to the fuel tank.

I'd remove the tank especially if you are grinding.

I have a diesel and left my tank in.

I feel I am a competent mechanic after spending (at the time) 12-14 years as an aircraft mechanic, this C channel s*** is severely difficult. Its the worst job I have ever done on my cruiser.

I used a grinder, I used a torch, I used an air hammer (big one). The torch did not help. Only grinding helped.

My suggestion is to grind the bits of each side. Take a centre punch, mark the middle. Then use a 1/8 inch drill bit and pre-drill. Then take a 1/4 bit and second drill. Try the air hammer with a punch. They might pop out.

You see the drilling relieves some of the pressure on the rivet. Cause when they are squeezed its put in tightly.

But in the end it's a dirty job.

Focus on one side only till completed. I did it all once. Too much. You might need a break after one side...LOL
 
I had to grind/drill out a few rivets when I repaired my frame near a body mount. Those rivets really are squeezed in and like said even after grinding the head off they still are embedded. Maybe I'll take my time and work on the rivets holding the c channel in but not holding any mounts. They aren't holding anything anyway cause the inner c channel is rusted away. Then another day, park it and do the rest. At least that way I can play with them some and see what works best.
 
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An air chisel makes this job easy. It's possible to remove all the rivets in less than an hour. It's worth buying the tool for just this one job. Grinding tends to damage the frame you're trying to repair. The forward end of the OEM channels were tack welded on my frame.

In this application, softer bolts are better than hard grade 8. Rivets are designed to be soft and squish into all the gaps of both pieces. This allows the stress to pass through the two pieces and rivets without stress risers around the holes. Hard bolts create stress risers in flexing materials and will lead to fatigue cracking.

Stronger and harder is not always stronger.
 
9. Remove the cross member that hold the spare tire by drilling out the rivets. Mine are bolted in not riveted

mine is also bolted. I remember moving it when I dropped my fuel tank.
 
air chisel with flat chisel and straight punch, grinder, drill, step bit(s), ear plugs x4. Pry bars, and bfh help too. i've done this to two trucks now and it doesn't get much easier with experience. it takes a lot of strength and persistence. I had the fuel tank out for a fuel pump for one of them and that helped too.
 
I also welded (spot) my body mount and spring bracket on before I started. Then I bolted them after the c channel went in.

I also put a lot of grease between the new c channel and the frame, to keep it from rusting further.
 
My trick was to first drill a small "reference" hole in the center of each rivet, and then grind the rivet head off.
Using your reference hole for centering, drill out the body of the rivet. At some point before you have to drill out the whole rivet, you can then pop the body out with a punch and hammer.

And being able to sit up under the truck without the gas tank is worth the effort to remove it. The job is bad enough without getting hot metal all over you lying down under it.

Good luck.
 
I guess since having to remove the cross member its not all that much more to remove the tank. 2 straps and disconnect the hoses and unplug the sender. yes this job is going to SUCK.
 
Started working on this. Drilled out some useless rivets on day one. The ones that were not holding anything but my rusted away old C channel to the outer frame. Day 2 I removed the spare and drilled out a couple more. Day 3 is today and I unbolted and removed the cross member (that holds the spare) and unbolted and removed the exhaust bracket.

I studied the body mounts more today and I realize there is one rearward of the c channel and just before the bumper. So with that holding the body I feel safe removing the rivets from the body mount where it's riveted to the C channel (edit: while the body is unsupported, but of course not driving it anywhere) . So I did one side today. Lots of drilling, grinding and beating. I put a tarp down to catch the rust shingles and metal shavings.

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As you can see I have some patch welding to do on the outer frame after I get the C channel out. here are more pics of the mess.

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I'll head to the store tomorrow for more drill bits and grinding pads. I'm pretty beat from working on this. I'll remove the body mount rivets from the other side tomorrow. The next day set the truck on stands and unbolt the rear springs and remove the shackles. I noticed today that the shackle mounts have 3 rivets holding them. One in the side and 2 in the bottom. So far I have not removed my gas tank but I did put a board between the grinder and the tank to avoid throwing sparks at it...esp the fuel lines. Looks like the rivets inside the shackle mount will be the hardest to reach. We'll see. I kind of like keeping as many wheels and weight on the ground while driving out the rivets. When I get up on the stands I'll have to do more drilling and less pounding. Something I learned today is don't grind the heads completely flush. Get down close then find the center and hit with a center punch. drill the rivet to make a good impression in the center. Go all the way through or at least a good way through then go back and grind flush. That way I don't lose the center and end up off the rivet on the other side.
 
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