Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[cult45]

Git'er runnin!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Was talking with @SFROMAN about this earlier today. Mechanicals only. Pressure wash the body, but I wouldn't do anything else.

Have the OEM radiator hot-tanked and pressure tested. If the fins aren't corroded out of it, it's probably fine for a good long while.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Was talking with @SFROMAN about this earlier today. Mechanicals only. Pressure wash the body, but I wouldn't do anything else.

Have the OEM radiator hot-tanked and pressure tested. If the fins aren't corroded out of it, it's probably fine for a good long while.

That's my direction...mechanicals plus some bling here and there, not letting my OCD get the best of me...hopefully. I will likely pull the drive train to make cleaning easier and re-seal engine trans tcase.

Got the rad pulled just now and plan to drop it at the shop Tuesday. I think it should be fine.

 

[SEAWOLF]

Definitely going to follow along here...I just got a 67 and from the sounds of it, I'm likely going in the some direction in terms of 'how far to go'.

 

[SFROMAN]

Yeah we were talking about this yesterday.

If I were you I would focus all my time and energy on getting it running properly.
So focus on the engine and drivetrain.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Did more cleaning, bolt soaking and removed all hardtop glass.

Looks like the original color was Heath grey.



FYI...if anyone ever considers installing carpet as a headliner, stop and don't do it for the sake of the next owner. It traps water which will eventually destroy the rain gutter.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Yeah we were talking about this yesterday.

If I were you I would focus all my time and energy on getting it running properly.
So focus on the engine and drivetrain.

Yeah...too late for just that but it's one of my major focuses.

 

[74fj40]

Bump for updates

 

[S4Cruiser]

Dropped the radiator off at the shop yesterday and picked up the seat bases/backs plus dropped off some other random parts at the blaster. Seat frames came out really good and I was able to get the back covers painted yesterday (Dupli-Color BMG 0490)...had to go to 3 different auto parts stores just to find 3 cans - 1 from each store.





Continued pulling off parts and scraping the years of oil/mud/whatever off the engine, etc. Inside of the water pump and t-stat housing looked great, no real corrosion to speak of...no t-stat either. Water pump gets replaced and t-stat housing got blasted and painted (the Skat Blast cabinet I picked up a few months ago makes freshening up parts so much more fun vs sanding and wire wheeling).







Also, pulled the fiberglass top and broke less bolts then not. The rain gutter is not perfect but I think it's salvageable especially based on my plan for this truck (i.e. not frame off). I scraped off the rust and will clean and treat the rust as well as reseal the top before reinstalling with new weatherstripping and hardware.



I hope to be at a place by next weekend to pull the drive train for cleaning, painting and new gaskets, etc. I'll also scrape, vacuum out and treat surface rust on the frame.

 

[oregon fj]

(Dupli-Color BMG 0490)...had to go to 3 different auto parts stores just to find 3 cans - 1 from each store.

How close does that Dupli-Color match the original pewter? Want to retain the original on my glovebox, t-case lever and ashtray, but will need to paint the seat frames and gauge surround. Not necessarily looking for perfection, but close would be good.

 

[S4Cruiser]

How close does that Dupli-Color match the original pewter? Want to retain the original on my glovebox, t-case lever and ashtray, but will need to paint the seat frames and gauge surround. Not necessarily looking for perfection, but close would be good.

It’s tough to tell as my glove box (and everything else in this truck except the glass) is painted yellow. I can compare to new turn signal lights from Toyota if that helps. I'm going to try that citri-strip stuff on a couple parts tomorrow and if it works I can compare to those.

 

[oregon fj]

It’s tough to tell as my glove box (and everything else in this truck except the glass) is painted yellow. I can compare to new turn signal lights from Toyota if that helps. I'm going to try that citri-strip stuff on a couple parts tomorrow and if it works I can compare to those.

The new turn signals I bought a few months ago are a very good match to the original paint I found on the glove box and ashtray. So if you can compare those, that should give a good idea.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Haven't forgot about you @oregon fj ! I should be able to get some compare pics tomorrow.

Had just enough time tonight to see how much of a PITA it will be to remove the old caulking around the fiberglass cap/rain gutter. Well...it's going to be a real stinker. A PO somewhere decided it would be cool to use liquid nails or some other type of cement like adhesive vs self leveling seem sealer. I think my best approach will be using my large die grinder and cutoff wheel to 'grind' it down.

I then plan to prime and gel coat with this product https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQP5CWS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2ZO16S61GUQY7&psc=1 followed by a quality self leveling seem sealer.

 

[S4Cruiser]

@oregon fj - pics comparing trim colors. Bumperette is new from Toyota a few months ago. Passenger seat back is Duplicolor BGM0490 with Rustoleum clear. Window regulator is off this '67.

Regulator is definitely darker. Bumperette is lightest of the three. The Duplicolor is also more sparkly.

If had to do this over again I'd not use the Duplicolor. Not b/c of the color (it seems close enough for this build and I'm painting most of the trim peices) but the cans are small (used 6 so far @ 9.99 each) need to be fairly upright to spray paint and it doesn't flow out. I'd just get a quart of base / clear and use my small Finnex HVLP.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Haven't done much other then take stuff apart. I'm trying to minimize broken bolts in hopes of getting the original stuff plated for reinstalling. So far I think I'm at 5ish broken.



Did start CLR scrubbing. Works really good with a maroon 3m pad.


Dropped the fuel tank at a local radiator shop for cleaning an leak checking. It was in surprising awesome shape inside even after sitting for ~6 years.

Tried this paint stripper (Citristrip) to see if it would remove the yellow paint from some interior trim pieces. I was amazed at how well and quick it works! We'll see if it successfully removes the yellow and primer underneath without damaging the og paint.

 

[S4Cruiser]

This Citristrip stuff is awesome! I might just buy a 5 gallon bucket and do the entire truck!

Two coats, dip in the pool, grilled (and ate) some hot dogs...couple scrapes with a plastic razor blade and quick wipe with some simple green...

 

[sterling]

Nice looking forward to the progress.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Finally was at a point I could pull the F135. Took way too lang thanks to some 50 year old cotter pins in the engine mount bolts.



I've also been steadily scrubbing panels with CLR and then using rust converter on any rust or bare metal spots.

 

[S4Cruiser]

After a weeks worth of evenings/nights scraping 50 years of grease and mud from the engine/trans/tcase, I soaked (easy-off lemon scent oven cleaner), scrubbed, hosed off then repeat. Was conscious of not letting the oven cleaner sit on the aluminum parts but for just a few minutes. Came pretty clean or at least so that further tear down doesn't get s*** everywhere.





Pulled the tcase and opened her up to see what I'm dealing with. I was pleasantly surprised to see how good the gears look. Zero rust or pitting. There is some thick sludge/oil in the bottom of the case but doesn't seem like anything abnormal for a 50 year old case.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Ive got the next couple days off work before the 4th so I hope to get it all taken apart, in and out of the parts washer and then I'll bead blast the case before rebuilding.

Also plan to pull the trans...fingers crossed the inside looks good as I couldn't find a rebuild kit, just seals and gaskets.