Overheating...stumped (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 23, 2010
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Location
Fort Walton Beach Florida
A while back I swapped out the coolant hoses for new ones due to the leaks and janky hodge podge of hoses used.

I hadn't really driven her much until then, so I can't say I recall her over heating before.

Today I finished installing a new thermostat and I also installed a mechanical temp gauge because the OEM one def wasn't working.

Started her up, looked like she got to temp, I dangled the mechanical temp gauge about twenty min in and boom...she's at 200+ degrees almost hitting 210.

At this point I shut her off and I have noticed as once it heats up I can't start her again until she cools down a bit.

I believe I burped the system properly, but who knows...

You guys have any further suggestions?

Thanks in advanced.

Synopsis

Make sure you burp your system. And it may take a couple tries.

200+ is normal temp.

A carburetor fan is your friend, don't remove it.
 
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There's still air in the system. Where did you install the mech temp sender?
210° doesn't warrant an engine shut down. Above 230° would get me reaching towards the ignition key.
 
My experience with burping is that it takes several attempts. Make sure the heater is on and the rear seat heater is on to get good circulation. You might hear gurgling in your heater. I chased the gremlins for a year, did all the same stuff and it turned out to be my radiator overflow cap lost its gasket and wasn't sealing properly.
 
Looks like I might have come to conclusions prematurely.

Two hours later after mounting the mechanical gauges I started her back up and drove her around the block.

Whilst driving to temp gauge read right under 190.

IMG_7146.jpg


After I shut her off, I went inside the house came back and saw this.

IMG_7144.jpg


I started her back up and she went back down to right below 190. I'm guessing the fan is doing it's job on cooling the block. Quite amazing considering once it starts turning the gauge drops almost 30 degrees.

At this point I'm thinking all is good and just have to figure out why she's having a hard time restarting after I drive her for a bit.

Mind you, the motor is pretty much missing 90% of the vacuum lines, EGR system, and what not.
 
There's still air in the system. Where did you install the mech temp sender?
210° doesn't warrant an engine shut down. Above 230° would get me reaching towards the ignition key.

I installed it where the OEM one was. Might have to use some teflon on the Bosch coupling though because it's seeping a little coolant.
 
My experience with burping is that it takes several attempts. Make sure the heater is on and the rear seat heater is on to get good circulation. You might hear gurgling in your heater. I chased the gremlins for a year, did all the same stuff and it turned out to be my radiator overflow cap lost its gasket and wasn't sealing properly.

I didn't even think about the rear seat heater.

I'll run that also.

Thanks!
 
Where did you install the temp. sensor for the gauge? Park it on an inclined driveway to rid of any air in the system.
 
Get one of the funnels that sits on the radiator inlet. When you think you’ve got it burped, do it three more times.
 
That much huh.... I’m following as well. I parked on the little 45 degree hill on my driveway, had the funnel in (lisle brand) and added and squeezed the upper rad hose till it seemed to just be squirting out but I failed to have the heaters blowing... I’ll try it again too. My temp likes to sit just a smidge over half and truck feels hot. I don’t have a temp gun tho.
Clarify gang, squeeze that top hose say how long 5 mins, 10, w/ the heat on high? And just keep adding? This is not a ‘clean’ task.... ?
 
That much huh.... I’m following as well. I parked on the little 45 degree hill on my driveway, had the funnel in (lisle brand) and added and squeezed the upper rad hose till it seemed to just be squirting out but I failed to have the heaters blowing... I’ll try it again too. My temp likes to sit just a smidge over half and truck feels hot. I don’t have a temp gun tho.
Clarify gang, squeeze that top hose say how long 5 mins, 10, w/ the heat on high? And just keep adding? This is not a ‘clean’ task.... ?

I seem to remember doing this at least 3 times when chasing down cooling issues on my old 85. Do what @HemiAlex said. When you think its done its not. If somebody told you it worked on theirs doing it 10 minutes at a time then you probably should do 15 minutes at a time, and definitely put the heaters on.
At least that was my cruiser experience yours of course may vary.
 
I initially tried burping by pulling up on some ramps.

The gauge is reading 180-190 when she's running and 200+ when she's off.

I'll have to find an incline somewhere I guess.
 
Seeing a mechanical temp gauge spike up after you park is normal - this is called heat soak and it's all the excess engine heat going into the coolant after the coolant stops circulating. Don't sweat that. It sounds like your operational temp is just fine - 180-190 while running.

At this point I'm thinking all is good and just have to figure out why she's having a hard time restarting after I drive her for a bit.

This is called 'a carbureted engine on a hot day' - and carburetors also pick up heat from the block and manifolds after you park. You may also have other emission control-related problems, too, of course.
 
SteveH nailed it. As for the hard starting, try holding the accelerator down (don't pump it) while cranking. If you're missing a bunch of vacuum lines and emissions stuff chances are that your carb cooling fan isn't working. Mine doesn't either and I've found holding the pedal down helps get the engine started when it's hot. HTH.
 
For hot starting issues check to see that your carb fan is kicking on. Helps blow air on the carb to prevent all the fuel from vaporizing out of the carb bowl.

Grounded the Carb cooling fan but no go
 
I initially tried burping by pulling up on some ramps.

The gauge is reading 180-190 when she's running and 200+ when she's off.

I'll have to find an incline somewhere I guess.


Stop worrying this is running as designed. No problem here, move on.

Dyno
 
That much huh.... I’m following as well. I parked on the little 45 degree hill on my driveway, had the funnel in (lisle brand) and added and squeezed the upper rad hose till it seemed to just be squirting out but I failed to have the heaters blowing... I’ll try it again too. My temp likes to sit just a smidge over half and truck feels hot. I don’t have a temp gun tho.
Clarify gang, squeeze that top hose say how long 5 mins, 10, w/ the heat on high? And just keep adding? This is not a ‘clean’ task.... ?
You can feel the hose getting hot once your system is getting close to full. Once it gets too hot to pump by hand, you should feel fluid sloshing around in there. At that point I top off the reservoir and let it draw from there. I keep an eye on the reserve for the next few days. My temp gauge sits just between 1/8 and 1/4 depending on how hot and how long I'm driving.

I should add that the engine is running while I'm filling in case that isn't obvious. All heaters on full.
 
Agree with parking on an incline, w rear heater on. Also, dont put in the 180 thermostat next time, keep the 190 in, helps with gas mileage too.
 
You can feel the hose getting hot once your system is getting close to full. Once it gets too hot to pump by hand, you should feel fluid sloshing around in there. At that point I top off the reservoir and let it draw from there. I keep an eye on the reserve for the next few days. My temp gauge sits just between 1/8 and 1/4 depending on how hot and how long I'm driving.

I should add that the engine is running while I'm filling in case that isn't obvious. All heaters on full.
Thanks yeah, trick is running while I’m doing this too. Little anxiety having it open while truck is coming up to temp. Closing the rad cap when I’m done tweaks me out tho so I shut truck off then cap.
 
Thanks yeah, trick is running while I’m doing this too. Little anxiety having it open while truck is coming up to temp. Closing the rad cap when I’m done tweaks me out tho so I shut truck off then cap.
Yeah it's a little nerve wracking at first but, I've seen your build thread. Just do it, you got it. I wear leather gloves and eye protection because it makes me feel professional... haha! I make instruments from scratch out of my garage and the first time I tried to fill the coolant after I drained the rad and block it started spewing all over my wood shop. NOT COOL! If you've got most of your coolant in there you'll be fine. Just keep your funnel in place and take your time. It helps if you've drained it completely and you measure out your liquid before you start filling. That way you know how much you have left.
 

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