My 73 rust bucket (1 Viewer)

[Dunham]

So after one too many beers at my brother’s house, he tells me that the neighbor is selling the “coveted “ 73 FJ40. “$3500” he says. So I write her a check that day and trailer it home a couple weeks later. In the mean time, I’ve sobered up a bit and the remorse sets in. I tell a Cruiser guy I know about it, and he comes over to kick the tires. He tells me he doesn’t want it and that it needs a new tub. This one can’t be fixed. Mostly, I think, because the rust behind the doors. Before I trailered it, rear doors opened and closed with no, or very little difficulty. Now they need a little convincing with the singlejack.
Was he right? Or can I save it?

 

[Rigger]

Flip the bezel and she’s a keeper!

 

[Dunham]

Here are more photos.

 

[Dunham]

But wait, there’s more!

 

[Dunham]

Last one! I think it was born tan?

 

[Rigger]

Does it run?

 

[kbahus]

I remember when I purchased my first 40, I thought it was rusty too. Then I learned it wasn’t that bad, unfortunately that was after I sold it. If your not commited to the 40 it will get the best of you, it is relationship that gets built over time.

From the pics you have posted the tub is in far better shape than mine. Time to clean it up and baseline it.

 

[Dunham]

It does not run. It sat for 11 years. When it was parked it was running. It turns over nicely, even coughs a bit with some starter fluid. Ignition pieces are in dire need of replacement. I can turn the rotor a good 10 degrees. One of the wires doesn't want to stay in the cap. I'm confident I can get her going, though.
Yeah, I don't know that I want it to get the best of me. I recently did a similar, but not this involved, thing with my CJ7. I'm on the fence a bit. I want to do everything, but seem to have time for nothing.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I guess ones definition of rust is directly proportional to the amount of beer consumed in ounces divided by the square root of the average dew point in the month of July in said individuals present location.

 

[southern jeeper]

Maybe rusty for a western truck but it looks to be workable. Get her running and driving then start venturing into rust repair.

 

[65swb45]

What do you want? A wheeler? Good chance of making that happen without too much grief. Anything more than just a wheeler and you’re looking at a LOT of down time.

Open the points and chances are she’ll fire.
Do a compression test.
Pull the wheels and check the wheel cylinders, shoes and drums.
Have someone turn the steering wheel repeatedly from 10-2 while you check the steering box, the center arm and tie rod ends for wear.
Price out time and materials to fix the brakes and steering.

Then start thinking about a carb.

The body is not going to fall off any time soon. But you could kill yourself and/or some innocent people if you don’t make steering and brakes first priority after making sure the motor will run.

 

[Dunham]

My stock 4cylinder (yeah it sucks) CJ is rolling on 30x9.5's and gets me everywhere I need to go. I was planning on a similar, yet obviously cooler Toyota version with 1.5x the cylinders. In a nutshell, I was going to try to maintain oem. Crawler? I'm not that guy, but can see how being that guy could make the bodywork easier!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I would have paid $3600 just to have another one that coughed .............

U got a deal hands down

that good of a deal

if she coughs she will eventually run .......


here in maryland near Wash DC that would sell for Double


no kidding , no joke

 

[Devils Paw 80]

.. can I save it?..

Sure, but why? I'd put the minimum amount of money into this one and just use it as planned for as long as it holds up-which should be quite awhile in dry California.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

to start , (no pun)

unbolt that Webber and throw in trash can

That 10+ year old Carb is why your truck wont start

install a @Racer65 21100-61012 Carb with new gaskets

u new truck will most likley run again Normally for the most part

 

[Martyt]

I think you got a deal but if you disagree, I am in CA and will take her off your hands (serious)! Not bad rust from what little I can see— more than what you would see in a C A rig unless it lived coastal or NorCal area. You can always ditch the top and doors— free and easy!

 

[Martyt]

Plus, you can’t have too many green 40s

 

[cbmontgo]

That is a solid 40 for $ 3,500.

 

[Dunham]

Plus, you can’t have too many green 40s

If I do this, it won't be green for long. I'd be bringing it back to what I believe is the original dune beige.
I really appreciate all the feedback. I have to add that I don't think that I got a bad deal, only that I may have made a hasty decision.
I also vacillate between pure bliss and wanting to throw up in my mouth over this. Currently closer to pure bliss.

 

[White Stripe]

To fix that body will take a lot of work. Have you done body work? I went with a aqualu aluminum tub and really like it. It save me a lot of labor over fixing the steel body and the rust is gone forever since its aluminum. I also had it painted and back on the road in a relatively short time frame. Installing the aluminum tub and modifying it to work with the hard top is not easy, but its easier than fixing the steel tub. If you drop it off at a body shop to have all the steel body rust removed and painted your probably looking at around a 20k bill.