Question for an 80 series expert (1 Viewer)

[Dan Armino]

I have a 1993 80 series with locking center differential only, currently my front axel is clicking when turning and center differential whines while on the gas ( my axel seals failed a long time ago). I have the an opportunity to pick up a 1995 used front axel with factory locking front differential. My question is it possible and/or safe to have only locking front and center differential without having the rear differential lock.
Any advise appreciated.

 

[customcruiser]

Yes go for it

 

[BILT4ME]

I have a 1993 80 series with locking center differential, currently my front axel is clicking when turning and center differential whines while on the gas ( my axel seals failed a long time ago). I have the an opportunity to pick up a 1995 used front axel with factory locking front differential. My question is it possible and/or safe to have only locking front and center differential without having the rear differential lock.
Any advise appreciated.

Yes, you can use the 95 locking front axle. You can set up it's own wiring to lock or unlock at will based on just a switch, but depending on what level you go to will determine if you have a locked differential light.

Otherwise, you'll need a harness for the LD, and it won;t lock because the indicator for the rear diff lock will need to be activated as well.

Just wire it on its own.

 

[Tools R Us]

Yes, you can use the 95 locking front axle. You can set up it's own wiring to lock or unlock at will based on just a switch, but depending on what level you go to will determine if you have a locked differential light.

Otherwise, you'll need a harness for the LD, and it won;t lock because the indicator for the rear diff lock will need to be activated as well.

Just wire it on its own.

The factory switch/wiring will work just fine, there is no interlock that prevents the front from locking without the rear.

 

[BILT4ME]

The factory switch/wiring will work just fine, there is no interlock that prevents the front from locking without the rear.

Good to know!

I thought it had to lock the CDL, Rear, then front. Glad I'm incorrect. Thanks for the clarification!

 

[-Spike-]

Good to know!

I thought it had to lock the CDL, Rear, then front. Glad I'm incorrect. Thanks for the clarification!

The stock locker switch forces the rear first, then both, but nothing tells the system there's no rear locker.

You can do this, just know that your likelyhood of breaking something in the front is much higher without a rear locker engaged first. A cheap way to get around this is to install an autolocker in the rear. You will rarely need the front locker, but it's sure nice to have it when you do.

 

[Funner]

The only issue I can foresee is if the donor axle or existing axles were regeared at some point. If they are both stock gearing you should be fine, if not, you need to resolve that.

 

[Corbet]

I can only add that while the locked axle is definitely desirable if the truck is to be wheeled there is no guarantee that its going to solve your "clicking" or worn birfield issues. It could just as easily need those along with a full rebuild too. After all its 23 years old.

So if you don't need the locker then its probably just as easy and less expensive to rebuild what you have. Get a set of Nitro Birfields that fit your needs, seal kit, bearings, 5 tubes of Moly Grease, 73 rolls of paper towels and box of rubber gloves. Rotors and pads if they are questionable.

Otherwise I'd recon the locked axle, wire it on its own switch, throw something like an Aussie locker in the back and hit the trails.

The only downside to the front on its own switch is safety. If you hit that on the road/HWY by mistake, and it locks, your steering will be terrible. The OEM system will not lock without the center diff locked (4L if no pin7 mod) and if your over 12MPH? Forget the exact speed.

 

[Dan Armino]

Thanks everyone!

 

[Dan Armino]

I want to thank everyone for their input. I honestly don't need the lockers, my LC is used mostly for trips to and from Tahoe in both winter and summer (200 miles) and very mild overlanding. I was looking for a way to solve both problems with the out having to buy too many specialty tools and if i got lockers at the same time, that would be a bonus.
I have no problem replacing the Birfields, its the differential that concerns me, setting the backlash and with the crush spacer and different size shims seems like it would have a steep learning curve. I'm not even sure that my differential is causing the whine but I would hate to replace the birfields only to still have the whine and have to remove birfields and axels again to pull the differential.

 

[Corbet]

Your original post referred the the “center diff” whining not the front diff. So I assumed you we referring to your transfer cases whining. I’d assume everyone else did also.

That could change things a bit. Pull the 3rd member out and take it to a expert for inspection.

But yes, ring and pinion set up is much more challenging. Personally I dropped off my 3rd’s to be regeared as I did not want to invest into the tools for that one time job.

 

[Dan Armino]

Sorry for the confusion, I did mean the from differential, my mistake.