I was unaware of the 25ftlbs-35ftlbs value when I did my axle service. My father was reading the fsm to me and noticed the inch pound rating seemed low (or misprint) so to just torque it to 43ftlbs should be fine. I'm almost certain that whenever the axle service was done before I got the rig that they followed the fsm and man where my bearings loose. I almost think that's what caused the groove I have in my driver side spindle, but that's a whole other topic...
Axle Rebuild Question (1 Viewer)
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I was unaware of the 25ftlbs-35ftlbs value when I did my axle service. My father was reading the fsm to me and noticed the inch pound rating seemed low (or misprint) so to just torque it to 43ftlbs should be fine. I'm almost certain that whenever the axle service was done before I got the rig that they followed the fsm and man where my bearings loose. I almost think that's what caused the groove I have in my driver side spindle, but that's a whole other topic...
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Also, that is a very low drag number, IIRC, close or equal to the fresh grease pack/new seal drag. When playing with the parts, doing drag measuring tests, was able to get "acceptable FSM drag numbers" and have play, in other words no bearing preload. This is what started the separate seal/grease drag from preload tests. Torquing the nut sets bearing load, without the new/old, bearings, grease, seals, etc, drag muddying the equation.
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- #23
I'm not trying to cause any arguments here and I do understand what everyone is saying. I'm just trying to wrap my head around my issue. I appreciate everyone's input and when I get my new hub socket I will give it another go. Maybe I need a new spindle. Anyway the picture I posted above was of Cruiser Outfitters instructions. Below is straight from the FSM:
I just did this tonight. I had a little vibration under braking and thought it could be wheel bearings. When I originally did my bearings 4 years ago I did it by feel so I expected they could be a little loose. Jacked the front axle up, neither wheel felt loose at 12 and 6, but I went ahead and fought the damn cone washers anyways.
This time I torqued the inner nut to 35ft/lbs (maybe an 1/4-1/6th of a turn further than I had snugged it by feel) and the outer nut to 45ft/lbs. One thing that I would caution against is if you are reusing the locking washer make sure it is very straight or that 45ft/lbs on the outer nut will just be going into straightening the the washer. If I would have planned better I would have just ordered new locking washers.
I would have no problem recommending 35ft/lbs for the bearing preload it is much easier than the fish scale and makes sense the larger tires might necessitate another 1/4 turn of preload.
This time I torqued the inner nut to 35ft/lbs (maybe an 1/4-1/6th of a turn further than I had snugged it by feel) and the outer nut to 45ft/lbs. One thing that I would caution against is if you are reusing the locking washer make sure it is very straight or that 45ft/lbs on the outer nut will just be going into straightening the the washer. If I would have planned better I would have just ordered new locking washers.
I would have no problem recommending 35ft/lbs for the bearing preload it is much easier than the fish scale and makes sense the larger tires might necessitate another 1/4 turn of preload.
did it get rid of your braking vibration?
You know, I don't know that I've ever actually looked at the FSM page for this procedure. At least not this edition, I have a '94 FSM.
What's very interesting is that it states that you need to measure the 'frictional force of the oil seal', with the nut loose. That makes a lot of sense, as you would subtract that number from the number you get when you measure the resistance with the inner nut torqued to 48 in/lbs to get your actual pre-load resistance. So, if the 'frictional force of the oil seal' was 10 lbs (for instance), you would want a total of 16.2-22.6 lbs of resistance when you measure after tightening the adjusting nut.
I have never heard that mentioned, and it makes a big difference in the final pre-load.
In any case, the 'Mud accepted method is to tighten the adjuster to 43 ft/lbs, rotate, repeat, loosen, tighten to 20-35 lbs/ft (your choice, depending on how hard you intend to thrash the truck), install the washer and lock nut, tighten to 47 ft/lbs, fold over the tabs and call it good.
HOWEVER, there's that 65 ft/lbs you mentioned earlier, for the lock nut. I'm wondering if this is an updated FSM? I've never heard of this, but there it is, in print, like Toyota figured out the old specs were insufficient.
Interesting! @Tools R Us , seen this before?
Nope, I think it is bushings, tie rod ends, etc. I didn't go back after I drove it and found out that it didn't so I will have to diagnosis it later.
I just did mine and used the factory method. Had to re-tighten. Needed 350 inch pounds (29ft/lb) before there was no 12/6 play. I have 32" tires and adjusted the nut in 10 in/lb increments with the wheel on until there was no/almost no play. Haven't checked them again since but I need to, to make sure they are still good. Tightening the wheel bearings reduced my brake pulsing but I still have brake pulsing with the new front brakes.
@cruiserhound I wouldn't worry about it being an argument.
Some people swear by the FSM method, lots are not satisfied with it.
The cruiser outfitters instruction looks like it's a cut and paste from the early FSM
Tools r us method is pretty well tested and proven.
Run with what works for you
Some people swear by the FSM method, lots are not satisfied with it.
The cruiser outfitters instruction looks like it's a cut and paste from the early FSM
Tools r us method is pretty well tested and proven.
Run with what works for you
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I don't recall seeing the 65ft/lb thing, but not surprised, what year/market FSM is it from?
Have a pretty large Toyota 4x4 FSM collection, Cruisers, Mini, 4Runner, etc. At the time, we reviewed the procedure for the ones that used the same bearings, setup and what is consistent is inconsistency. Significant differences over the years for the same procedure on the same parts.
As part of the playing, we measured drag at progressively higher torques, to see if the result was similar to other things like setting up diffs, etc. Went to at least 60ft/lb, didn't note any trauma to the nut or spindle. Would guess it would be fine, but don't see the point, 47ft/lb has worked fine, the double nut lock hasn't been a problem?
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My FSM is for the '91 model. Apparently Toyota has updated procedures from year to year. Thanks for the input, you guys know your s*** and I appreciate the help!!!
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- #32
My FSM is for the '91 model. Apparently Toyota has updated procedures from year to year. Thanks for the input, you guys know your s*** and I appreciate the help!!!
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- #33
Both wheels are now solid. No more play!
