Rhino Rack Pioneer platform on LX570 (1 Viewer)

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I'm about to purchase the 76x54 platform for my LX. The store was recommending the RTL600 legs with the quick release feature. It sounds attractive but:

1) not too comfortable with riveting tracks to the roof.
2) not sure what the implications to the load rating and sturdiness of the platform to the roof relative to the Rhino recommended legs (RCH).


Questions:
1) Any thoughts and experiences of the Pioneer platform on RTL600 or RCH legs?
2) with the platform being somewhat a solid, flat surface, any concerns with it providing lift to the car, especially at highway speeds (ie - 80+ in NV/UT)? Do I need to buy/install something that will prevent lift? Or is any lift negligible to a 2 ton vehicle :)? Stuff is on sale so would like to buy anything I need this week.
3) Shop is estimating $200-300 for install; plus extra to remove the factory rails. How much is reasonable to remove the factory rails? It's easy, right? 30 minutes and done? So $50? Or more too it?

Thanks!
 
Make sure your people removing the rails know what the heck they are doing or you are going to have a whole bunch of bolts drop into your headliner. NOT a fun experience. I would actually have Lexus do it themselves if you are not going to. What year is your rig? I have a 17 570 with the new solid rail vs. the old feet.
 
If the LX570 and Landcruiser have the same mounting points (I assume they do?) I would get the backbone mount, I have it and its excellent. I had the plastic RCH legs on my old 100 series and never had an issue but the backbone will support a heavier load.

No issue with lift and there will be a wind fairing available soon:

Pioneer Wind Fairing 1272mm / 50" - #43250| Rhino-Rack

43250-Pioneer-Wind-Fairing-00.jpg


43250-Pioneer-Wind-Fairing-08_lrg.jpg
 
2008. Two feet on each side. The Pioneer will be mounted on 3 feet on each side.

How do bolts get down into the headliner from the top?
 
Thanks. The RCH supposedly supports 330lbs although I do have concerns about aging plastic that spends time in the sun. Perhaps this is ABS? And ABS is more robust? I assume that an Aussie company selects the materials carefully given their sunshine?

I think the Backbone is only available for the 84" platform. And that covers the whole roof. I'm not sure I want to cover the moonroof..... I think even 72" will partially cover the moonroof. I think the 60" is probably a good size but then I think I need to have the Rhino tracks riveted to the roof - prefer to just use pre-existing factory mount points.
 
Hi Dan, to answer your question, the factory rack uses loc-tite on the screws, and if you are not super duper careful while you are loosening them, the anchor inside the headliner will break free and spin and potentially drop into the headliner, or just spin and stay where they are. This is very common. I had this very thing happen when I was removing the factory bars to mount our rack. The right hand side rear anchor broke free while I was loosening the factory bolt, and that put an end to our mounting any roof rack for the time being. After that happens, you have to remove a portion of the headliner and to get at the anchor and then you go from there. Same thing happens on FJ's as well. Luckily for me my local shop helped me out and got me back on track.
 
Cruiser - thanks for the info and great warning. Crap, now I'm all paranoid. I was thinking about doing it myself but I'll probably have these issues; Murphy loves me.

I'm not all that confident in the shop but I assume that they will do what it takes to install the rack. If they do drop anchors, I assume they will extract them somehow (completely transparent to me). If not, this could be a problem.

Are the fasteners metal? Can we use a heat gun to weaken the loctite first? Or is there any recommendations to avoid loctite issues/
 
CK - I hope the fairing is available soon! :)

I'll look at the Backbone again - LX and LC I believe have the same mount points. What size platform are using the Backbone with?
 
I'd also say go with the backbone system and bump up to the 84" platform. I actually use the sunroof more often now. Before the light was too much. This gives some nice shade.

As for the quote to remove the rails, it doesn't take long to remove the rails as long as it's done correctly (back out each evenly). In terms of hours, I would expect about 3-4 man hrs for the project in total. If there were 2 people, then it would take 1.5 to 2hrs (but still 3-4 man hrs.)
 
I would say go slowly, and like others have said, back them all out slowly and evenly, and then once they are all finger loose, then you can remove them all. Yes the anchors are metal, but from what I remember they aren't exactly very stout. (I should have taken a picture) I'm not sure a heat gun would work, but just go slowly and hopefully everything will go well. Good luck!
 
Stock rack is easy to remove, just back the bolts out a little at a time.

capture-png.1576569

Great illustration, had the same setup with internal mounting plates on my FJ. If you follow this method you have nothing to worry about. Just make sure both bolts are in place while you are breaking them loose and the internal plates can't spin. Once they are loose enough to back out with your fingers the plates won't spin.

Dive straight in and take one of the bolts all the way out and then start torquing on the second bolt and you'll be discovering what a joy removing your headliner can be!

On the plus side, it's a great opportunity to add some additional sound dampening material to the roof and cut down that wind noise! lol
 
Awesome! Thanks!

I'm actually thinking about removing the factory rails myself and then installing the platform (just need a second set of hand to get the platform onto the roof).

I'm not too mechanically inclined but this should be an okay project for the average person? Or is this something I really should take to a shop? $300-400 in labor -- if this just takes me 4-6 hours, I'd prefer to use the funds for something else. Money is tight after having just bought the KO2s. :) This labor money is probably better spent on buying a spare KO2.....
 
It is definitely a project anyone with average skills can undertake. Just remember to follow the same directions in reverse when installing the new rack. Insert the new bolt and thread it in by hand, as soon as it you start feeling any real resistance, thread the second bolt in. If you are turning a bolt in either direction with a wrench you should have a bolt in both sides of the plate. You can spin the mounting plate tightening the new bolts down too, not just breaking the stock bolts loose.

Taking this delicate approach also prevents you from cross threading the bolts. As long as you keep those rules in mind and take your time it's not a daunting project.
 
Thanks!! Okay, I'm just going to order the Rhino 76x54" kit for the LX. On sale, it's running about $850 right now. I'll set aside at least half a day to do the install. I'll print out the tips above in HUGE letters and place a copy at each mount point :)
 
Another thing you can do to make sure you don't lose those backing plates in the headliner is to grab 8 - M8 studs. As you caefully back out the bolts screws in the studs. Thinking goes that if they drop in, you can pull them back up by the studs. Definitely overkill and takes more time but worked like a charm for me. Here's a pic of what I mean. I did one side at a time.

IMG_20180505_114641.jpg
 
That's a good idea. I'll do that! Thanks. I'm allocating a day to do this right. Icing if I get done earlier. :)

BTW - what color loctite should I use when installing the new rack? Do I just want to use on the leg base to the factory mount points? Or also on the leg to the platform?
 

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