LX470 bad motor. Looking for campadible replacements (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 20, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
9
Location
Clinton Tn
Brand new to the LX470 and landcruisers, but I think I’ve found the right site for info. My wife was dead set on a 4Runner until I found an 06 LX470 with a bad motor. Now I’ve bought it and I’m having trouble finding accurate info on which motors will swap. Some say 4runners are made in Japan and the motors will swap, but the next thing you read says the horsepower is different? I would assume 06 and 7 landcruiser motors would make good donors but what about gx470s?
 
Bought it with a bad engine guy didn’t have a clue. Took it apart broke timing belt, threw a cheap one on it and checked compression. 6 out of 8 had under 20 pounds. Put air to the cylinders and can hear it out of either the exhaust or intake at all times while rotating motor. My diagnosis was multiple bent valves.
 
If it was me I would pull the heads and take a look before giving up on it.

A couple of bent valves is nothing. It could have some piston head damage but that is not a big deal either.

If it overheated that would totally be different thing.

The problem with a used donor motor is that you don’t know how it has been treated after it has been pulled. Has it been left out in the rain?

Unless you watched it get pulled out of a wrecked SUV you just don’t know the history and what you are getting.
 
Thanks white_lx, I guess that explains the draw backs of gx/4Runner engines. Outdoorsman, when I was checking compression the motor sounding funny turning over. I kinda just assumed it was because I had the plugs out and the timing bet exposed and no accessories hooked up. Then while I was turning it over by hand when I was charging it with air it started making funny sounds. Maybe flywheel or starter grinding? Any wild guesses?
 
1. Did you double check that the timing belt is installed correctly? It is a little trickier not have a old timing belt on there to everything aligned correctly.

2. Were the 2 low compression cylinders on the same side? (Same head)

3. You can pull the spark plugs and camera the cylinders. Borrow one if you need to..

4. If you pull the valve covers and spark plugs you can turn the motor over using a large ratchet and you will see the if any of the valves are bent if they do not come back up to the camshaft.

5. If you end up rebuilding your current motor with quality parts as good as OEM you will have a motor that can go 400k to 500k miles if it is well taken care of.

6. All of the 100 series motors were Japan built and in my experience better than the rest.

7. You can tell if a Toyota or Lexus was built in Japan by checking the first number of the VIN. If the first letter is “J” it will always be Japan built. The VIN number will also be stamped on all of the engine blocks.

8. Mud member 2001 LC is our current expert on the 06, 07 4.7 VTTi

How many miles are on your LX ?

Please let us know what you find.
 
@2001LC has just done this. He has some pretty detailed info on it. Search for his posts on The Unicorn. I believe he used the motor out of a GX470. It was not a straight swap as the 4Runner would not be either. Both are doable with some parts swapping on the motors though.
 
I've so many links you may have missed this, which you may find helpful.

In the index of this link (first link in my signture)
Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series.
You'll see "Engine" with this link under that:
What are the differences between 2UZ-fe VVti engines, & where can I get one??

I posted in numerous threads and talked with various shops on a fact finding mission. To find if Japanese 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi are better than USA made. My finding said YES, up to ~2007.

USA manufactured 4.7L had issue with piston slap & broken rods. Not all, but was issues not really seen in Japanese manufacture 4.7L except rare cases with special circumstances. The issue died off as the 5.7L came to market. Was it just not many 4.7L made after that or was issue corrected, this wasn't determine.


Bottom line I kept my search to LC, LX, 4runners & GX470. I found many engine weathered (water intrusion) or seller misrepresented mileage and condition. Also the pool of LC or LX, which are easy swaps, is small and pricy. The GX470 I did find was fresh with perfect records of fluid changes and no issues. The accident that totaled it, did not damage hood exposing engine nor was impact of any concern to engine's health.

Remember, LX470 & LC May 2005 - June 2007 are set-up for the VVTi. I would not use a non VVti 4.7L engine, just to many variables to deal with.

Good luck!
PS: Some search other than local Cl or Salvage yards.
Used 2007 Lexus Gx470 Engine Engine Assembly (4.7l, Vin T, 5th Di
Used 2007 Lexus Lx470 Engine Engine Assembly (4.7l, Vin T, 5th Di
Search Results
 
Thanks everyone for the links. Mine has 230k on it. I would assume I got the timing belt correct. I rolled the the crank mark to the knot stuck out of the lower timing cover. That freed up my cams where I could rotate. I then put both cams on the T marks. That let all my belt mark line up with my gear marks. Everything rotated free and smooth with the plugs out. The noise sounds a lot like a flywheel dragging against starter teeth. I’m gonna pull starter and have a look first chance I get.
 
I would assume 06 and 7 landcruiser motors would make good donors but what about gx470s?

Cofirm what year LX you have and mileage. As others have mentioned- 2006 and 2007 model years have VVTi Motors and they are not backwards compatible to previous model years and vice versa.

If your motor did not fail from an overheating issue- and the top end can be rebuilt- that may be far better than finding a “good” donor motor. There are so many disreputable yards selling crap as good motors and you dont find out until it shows up. Not easy to return either. As you can read from @2001LC thread on the unicorn, he went through a lot of trouble to source a good motor.
 
Mine has 230k. According to the owner it never got hot. The timing belt was for sure broke and wrapped around the crank. And it is vvti according to the cam gears and wiring. And titled 06 I would assume it is vvti also.
 
I didn’t see any obvious coolant leaks when I pulled it apart. I did notice the the radiator was somewhat low. I’m gonna guess maybe 4 inches down from the top. I did hook my scan tool up and I couldn’t find any codes. Anybody have a good guess on how to tell if it’s been hot? Am I safe to assume I should pull the heads and look at the gasket and look for white in the cylinders? Would you all think it shoulda had a code if it had been hot?
 
Another question, I’m thinking I should probably buy a repair manual. Haynes and Chilton are the only ones I’ve used before. What brand manual does the mud community lean towards?
 
Thanks outdoorsman. I’m glad you included they were too high. I woulda cried thinking I was gonna have to pay that. I’d say they are way more complete than chiltons/Haynes tho
 
Mine has 230k. According to the owner it never got hot. The timing belt was for sure broke and wrapped around the crank. And it is vvti according to the cam gears and wiring. And titled 06 I would assume it is vvti also.
If belt broke and it is a VVT engine, then valves most likely hit pistons.
Thanks everyone for the links. Mine has 230k on it. I would assume I got the timing belt correct. I rolled the the crank mark to the knot stuck out of the lower timing cover. That freed up my cams where I could rotate. I then put both cams on the T marks. That let all my belt mark line up with my gear marks. Everything rotated free and smooth with the plugs out. The noise sounds a lot like a flywheel dragging against starter teeth. I’m gonna pull starter and have a look first chance I get.
The "T"'s are not the timing marks.
I didn’t see any obvious coolant leaks when I pulled it apart. I did notice the the radiator was somewhat low. I’m gonna guess maybe 4 inches down from the top. I did hook my scan tool up and I couldn’t find any codes. Anybody have a good guess on how to tell if it’s been hot? Am I safe to assume I should pull the heads and look at the gasket and look for white in the cylinders? Would you all think it shoulda had a code if it had been hot?
If you read my thread you'll see numeros ways/clues to tell if it got hot. 4" low in radiator is bad, if run for to long.
Bought it with a bad engine guy didn’t have a clue. Took it apart broke timing belt, threw a cheap one on it and checked compression. 6 out of 8 had under 20 pounds. Put air to the cylinders and can hear it out of either the exhaust or intake at all times while rotating motor. My diagnosis was multiple bent valves.
Sounds like broken Timing belt damage valves, based on your "20 PSI". But you must have belt on correctly and crank at minimum of 250 RPM with throttle wide open to get a real compression reading.

The not hold compressed air with 720 degrees turning of crank, is sure indicator of bad valve(s)

Pulling heads on these are a big deal. Even removing head bolts need to be done in sequence and stages. Don't do without the FSM.

BTW: FSM for 06-07 LX or LC will work for you. If you look in mud you may find digital copy free. Online hard copy you can find for $200 to $300 new.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom