Picked up an 84 FJ60...diagnose engine sounds (1 Viewer)

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There’s been a few threads where folks have claimed they passed smog without the air pump. In theory this would only work for tailpipe sniffer tests - not tests where they are visually inspecting for the presence of components.
 
I am going to register it as a regular plate. But since it’s more than 25 years old, doesn’t need emissions. However, will require inspection. I don’t know if for inspection they check for smog.
 
Checked dipstick, level read full. Noise was still happening. I didn’t dig out my stethoscope tool to find out exactly where it was coming from.

I did notice this, you can see that one of the vacuum hoses is cut off and it was making a noise. It’s the one on the right on top of the coolant housing.
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That one behind it looped around isn't right either. Looks like they both go to the dizzy?? and maybe your missing the check valve?

Based on that diagram you are right! What does this check valve look like in real life, so I can order the part somewhere? Need to get some vacuum hose too then. Any special vacuum hose size or just regular hoses?
 
For the life of me I can't find the replacement check valve. Maybe I am searching for the wrong thing.... is it an "air check valve"?
 
We’re talking about the one right about the tstat housing? I’m sure it’s in the smog diagram... I will say I have a blue check valve I’d bought and didn’t put into the system. It’s new. Colors generally signify how much air they allow through or not through. But I’m not up on the needs of a smogged truck. Someone like @OSS or @mwebfj60 or @FJ40Jim would know the answer for sure.
If blue is what you need your welcome to it since it’s just sitting around doing nothing. Lmk.
 
The original check valve is no longer available, but a different one from Toyota works fine. That vacuum hose carnage is part of the high altitude compensation (HAC) system. If all the parts aren't accounted for, the system still won't work even if you replace that check valve. But if you want things under the hood to look like everything is fine, then installing that check valve would make that area look spiffy.

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The video shows the wrong alternator, a leaky manifold gasket, many vac hoses hacked up & mis-routed... Lotsa potential noise/sputter/rattle sources.
 
The video shows the wrong alternator, a leaky manifold gasket, many vac hoses hacked up & mis-routed... Lotsa potential noise/sputter/rattle sources.

Wow. Ordered the above valve check piece and a bunch of vacuum hose. Will try to check all vacuum line routing to make sure it’s all there at least and correct it if it’s incorrect.

What manifold gasket? Exhaust? Intake?

I am going to try to get a carb rebuild kit from Cruiser outfitters, and maybe I can rebuild it with the parts from the kit per the FSM.

The distributor cap and wires look new’ish.
 
Did some vacuum re-routings on the passenger side of the vehicle and put the check valve back in. Some were incorrect...probably due to the distrib work and wires upgrade(those look new). I actually FOUND the check valve there laying near front of the head, disconnected with a slashed vacuum line. Maybe that’s what was rattling around and causing that noise

Started to check some vacuum routings on the driver side and of course had some strange routing near the HAC valve. Going to check all those and correct per the vacuum routing diagram.

Also my battery keeps dying, since I’m not driving it around yet. Will pick up a duralast gold from autozone in the next day or so.

Once I check all the vacuum lines per the diagrams I will try to see how it starts and runs. Fingers crossed....
 

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