Another U joint question. Options? (1 Viewer)

[TerraNerva]

About to pull the trigger on U joints as part of my base lining, and of course I've got that definitive driveline clunk when shifting from P to D or R. I'd prefer OEM, but even with the local LC club discount, the local dealer wants nearly 60 bucks a pop, where others I've seen on various vendor websites are running half that or less. So, question is, what has the Mud community used successfully other than OEM? I see Dana/Spicer, Matsuba, Moog...etc, etc. I realize this is an opinion/preference question, and have dug deep into the bowels of the forum in regards to the clunk and u joints, but have yet to land on a general consensus on alternatives. My rig isnt going to see any hardcore crawling or mudding. Just asking for opinions on U joint alternatives. Thanks in advance.

 

[Heckraiser]

No problems with Matsuba from @cruiseroutfit

 

[J Mack]

I see Dana/Spicer, Matsuba, Moog...etc, etc.

I have a Cummins conversion and a heavy right foot that is extremely hard on U-joints, auto parts store Dana/Spicer, Moog...etc, etc will last from days to months but none last 6 months or longer.

Kurt @cruiseroutfit hooked me up with a set of Matsuba U-joints two years ago and they are still going strong, I don’t believe they cost substantially more than Dana/Spicer joints but hold up much better.

Joints listed about the middle of the page.

Cruiser Outfitters



Good luck!

 

[HARDGEAR]

Yes on the matsuba joints. No hum after 10k on fronts. Drive line angle is not to strait either.
I’m going to have to get more for xtra spares. Everyone should have Cruiser outfitters set as favorite bookmark. Keep the number in your phone to.

 

[nukegoat]

I have a Cummins conversion and a heavy right foot that is extremely hard on U-joints, auto parts store Dana/Spicer, Moog...etc, etc will last from days to months but none last 6 months or longer.

Kurt @cruiseroutfit hooked me up with a set of Matsuba U-joints two years ago and they are still going strong, I don’t believe they cost substantially more than Dana/Spicer joints but hold up much better.

Joints listed about the middle of the page.

Cruiser Outfitters



Good luck!

I seriously doubt your rig is blowing up spicer driveshaft u joints.

 

[J Mack]

I seriously doubt your rig is blowing up spicer driveshaft u joints.

I don’t believe we’ve ever met but you seem do know quite a bit about me and my “rig”.

Technically you are correct I have not “blown up spicer driveshaft u joints” but I have twisted a new Spicer drive shaft spline and damaged the Spicer U-joint to the point it was no longer usable and damaged the replacement Spicer U-joint three weeks later then several miscellaneous auto parts store replacements trying to find something better hence my use of the term above “hard on U-joints”.

Picture below shows a new custom built .250” wall drive shaft with Dana/Spicer slip yoke and joints after a 20 mile maiden voyage test drive with the new engine, if you look at the drive shaft you’ll notice the ends are about 20° out of sync. Yes I sheared the pinion splines at the same time.

Same rig and same driving style with Toyota slip yoke and Matsuba U-joints and everything is still going strong.

Thanks for the reply, I hope this helps answer your questions about my claim of my rig combined with my driving style is “hard on U-joints”

 

[nukegoat]

I don’t believe we’ve ever met but you seem do know quite a bit about me and my “rig”.

Technically you are correct I have not “blown up spicer driveshaft u joints” but I have twisted a new Spicer drive shaft spline and damaged the Spicer U-joint to the point it was no longer usable and damaged the replacement Spicer U-joint three weeks later then several miscellaneous auto parts store replacements trying to find something better hence my use of the term above “hard on U-joints”.

Picture below shows a new custom built .250” wall drive shaft with Dana/Spicer slip yoke and joints after a 20 mile maiden voyage test drive with the new engine, if you look at the drive shaft you’ll notice the ends are about 20° out of sync. Yes I sheared the pinion splines at the same time.

Same rig and same driving style with Toyota slip yoke and Matsuba U-joints and everything is still going strong.

Thanks for the reply, I hope this helps answer your questions about my claim of my rig combined with my driving style is “hard on U-joints”

Super hardcore bro. So what about the u-joints failed? It looks like you're claiming the splines twisted (not sure those are spicer parts) and then you sheared the toyota pinion shaft? But the u-joints are still fine?

 

[J Mack]

Super hardcore bro. So what about the u-joints failed? It looks like you're claiming the splines twisted (not sure those are spicer parts) and then you sheared the toyota pinion shaft? But the u-joints are still fine?

Reading comprehension?

Yes Dana/Spicer slip yoke and U-joints, no nothing from the drive shaft was usable, everything was new and had 28 miles on them at the time of this photo.



Are you trying to make a point that any of us could benefit from or wanting to have an internet argument about an indecent you have no first hand knowledge about?

 

[Douglas S]

Spicer joints are very high quality...

 

[-Spike-]

I've trashed more than my share of Spicers in DC joints. At less than 10,000 miles.

 

[BILT4ME]

Super hardcore bro. So what about the u-joints failed? It looks like you're claiming the splines twisted (not sure those are spicer parts) and then you sheared the toyota pinion shaft? But the u-joints are still fine?

Directed to the OP:

No, what he's stating is that
1) You claimed the U-Joints failed.
A) The yoke failed, not the U-joints. It appears it failed due to not being properly in-phase or aligned.
2) Did your U-Joints fail AS A RESULT of the other failure?
3) I would chalk up what I see there as a misapplication or misinstallation, not a failure of U-joints.

 

[nukegoat]

Reading comprehension?
...
an indecent

lol.

I just think the toyota fanboyism for u joints is ridiculous. Yes - OEM toyota joints are great when you need to replace an OEM driveshaft u-joint. I would not say that toyota u joints > *.spicer. That's just dumb. Everyone believes the folklore they heard on pirate4x4 about how "Jess" from high angle driveline says toyota u joints are stronger than 1350s or something but with no science or rationale.

 

[nukegoat]

I've trashed more than my share of Spicers in DC joints. At less than 10,000 miles.

Lil 1310s? I would agree that the toyota DCs are better than the 1310-based DCs. I would not argue that the toyota DC is stronger than the 1350 CV.

 

[nukegoat]

Directed to the OP:

No, what he's stating is that
1) You claimed the U-Joints failed.
A) The yoke failed, not the U-joints. It appears it failed due to not being properly in-phase or aligned.
2) Did your U-Joints fail AS A RESULT of the other failure?
3) I would chalk up what I see there as a misapplication or misinstallation, not a failure of U-joints.

Bingo - I mean, you shear off the pinion and twist the driveshaft splines and claim "and, you know, I couldn't re-use the u-joints." I don't think you can just say that the u-joints were garbage.

 

[TerraNerva]

Directed to the OP:

No, what he's stating is that
1) You claimed the U-Joints failed.
A) The yoke failed, not the U-joints. It appears it failed due to not being properly in-phase or aligned.
2) Did your U-Joints fail AS A RESULT of the other failure?
3) I would chalk up what I see there as a misapplication or misinstallation, not a failure of U-joints.

Well, I'm the OP and didn't write that post, but I expected opinions/preferences/applications to be all over the board. Sooo, back to the original question, just looking for suggestions and whats been successful for other MUD users. Thanks.

 

[BILT4ME]

Well, I'm the OP and didn't write that post, but I expected opinions/preferences/applications to be all over the board. Sooo, back to the original question, just looking for suggestions and whats been successful for other MUD users. Thanks.

Sorry. Wasn't you then. Meant to direct at @J Mack .....

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

OEM are expensive because they are the best. Saving a few bucks on an aftermarket u-joint that lets go in the bush is false economy.
That assumes -- they are set up at equal angles (proper pinion angles) and in proper phase, and if not -- generally explains premature failure.

My $0.02 worth based on 30 years of wheeling.

 

[Douglas S]

Well, I'm the OP and didn't write that post, but I expected opinions/preferences/applications to be all over the board. Sooo, back to the original question, just looking for suggestions and whats been successful for other MUD users. Thanks.

Replacing u-joints in stock driveshaft then just do this:

No problems with Matsuba from @cruiseroutfit

 

[Tools R Us]

About to pull the trigger on U joints as part of my base lining, and of course I've got that definitive driveline clunk when shifting from P to D or R. ...

Have you inspected the joints or are you just replacing them for fun? As long as they get some grease, factory type joints last very longtime. Clunks are most often from dry/worn splines.

 

[TerraNerva]

I have inspected and greased them, and what came out when I greased was not pretty. The clunk partially stopped for the first few drives, over a weekend running trails, but then started back again. Not knowing the complete history of the vehicle, and for peace of mind when in BFE, I'd rather go ahead and replace as part of my baseline, and lube the splines while I have the shafts out. Birfs were rebuilt by dealership right before I bought the rig. Maybe I'm being obsessive, but thats not a failure I want to deal with away from the comfort of my shop.