Builds Joined the 40 club! 1970 FJ40 Frame off build... (1 Viewer)

[kcisland]

Tadaa!

Add some pulleys and a come along:

I made it tall enough so I could remove the roof on good weather days. I am pretty sure it is strong enough for the engine install as well but I will need to add a brace to the back side as the trailer frame rail flexes a little.

 

[kcisland]

So next I hope to get the chassis on to start working the the sill rust. I may take it to the blaster first along with parts that are too big for my blaster.

 

[kcisland]

Prepped the tub this weekend for upcoming work. Started out removing all of the diamond plate to see what surprises lay in store...there is going to be a lot of work here.


Passenger side wasn't that bad, some rust patching and pull some dents:

Drivers side was completely missing a section:

Both rocker panels are toast:

 

[kcisland]

The sill was completely gone and replaced with angle iron.

Then my back got tired of working on the trailer so I went to the shop to build a rolling rack. This will make it easier to work on as it can spin 360 degrees and is a good working height.

Should I do patchwork first or send to the sand blaster first?

 

[Dynosoar]

Blast it first. You never know what demons are hidden by bondo........

 

[kcisland]

Blast it first. You never know what demons are hidden by bondo........

Yep, dry weather coming end of this week so I will load 'er up and head on to my blaster.

I haven't seen any bondo so far but you never know!

 

[Coolerman]

Awesome work so far! I sent you an email about your wiring harness...

 

[kcisland]

Awesome work so far! I sent you an email about your wiring harness...

Thanks [URL=https://forum.ih8mud.com/members/coolerman.2392/]Mark[/URL] !

I just used your site and TractorDoc 's thread to tear into my tranny and transfer case. Holy crap, very intimidating but both of your sites helped.

 

[kcisland]

Not much new to post other than tedious cleaning and disassembly/documentation pictures no one wants to see.

Pulled the transmission and transfer case and spent days chipping and scraping to find bolt heads. I felt like a paleontologist digging for fossils! Good news nothing snapped, bad news - Bryce at Cruiser Outfitters says bearings for the transmission have been on back order for a year.

I got the gasket kits but I will have to search for bearings or re-use the old.

Everything is blown apart with bolts ready to blast and get new Cadmium.

 

[kcisland]

The only major issue I could find was that first gear was a little worn:

 

[65swb45]

Did you try FJParts for the kit.

I’m out too.

 

[kcisland]

Did you try FJParts for the kit.

Not yet Mark, but I will. I had to travel for work.

I’m out too.

Well dang it! Thanks for looking.

I still need to get my carb to you when I get my butt in gear. So many areas to work on!

 

[kcisland]

Greetings all!

Took the summer off to play and enjoy the sun before it disappears in the Pacific northwest. But now the weather has turned and it's back at it.


Rebuilt engine is back. This is a 2F out of a 60 series with a 40911 date which I interpret as 9/11/1984 build?

But first things first I had to get the bell housing off of the seized F engine. I pulled the oil pan off to find some rusted piston arms to the crankshaft. After releasing these I was able to rotate the flywheel and remove it exposing the bell housing bolts.

Flywheel off:

Bell housing bolts behind the flywheel.

 

[kcisland]

Then the standard routine, clean, clean, degrease, clean, solvent...

Getting ready for paint:

Epoxy primer and paint:

 

[kcisland]

After a week of curing the bell housing is on:

Mounting brackets on:

Nice re-plated hardware. It is a lot of work to clean, sandblast and send out for re-plating, but I sure like the end results.

 

[kcisland]

Dropping the motor in went really easy for my first time ever. Just need to go slow with release and bolt each mount as it makes contact with the frame:

And it's in! Woohoo! It felt good to get it mounted. I don't have an engine stand so I needed to get it onto the frame to work off of.

Now comes the fun of deciding what components to use from my 1970 F engine vs buying all newer components for a 1985ish 2F.

 

[Rigger]

I love these last three pics.

 

[Joel99]

Sweet!!! Looks great Keith! Nice to upgrade to the 2F engine, which will make a possible upgrade to power steering easier.

 

[kcisland]

Sweet!!! Looks great Keith! Nice to upgrade to the 2F engine, which will make a possible upgrade to power steering easier.

Thanks Joel! Hope to see your rig on here sometime!

 

[kcisland]

I did a mockup of the water pump, alternator, and crank pulley to double check pulley alignment before I went through all the trouble of cleaning, blasting and paint.

I didn’t push the crank pulley all the way in, so I could take if off easy, but it all looked good using my 1F components on the new 2F.

But that means I need to rebuild the water pump. Is this doable? Just cleaning it up and putting it on sounds like a leaker in the short term.

Looks like my [URL=http://www.marksoffroad.net/]Mark’s Offroad[/URL] list is getting longer! Mark do you have a rebuilt 1F water pump? Or is there a NOS direct drive no oil cooler OEM available the same size at 5 1/2"?

It should all line up with the water pump back plate on.