What is the brake bleed sequence for 200? (3 Viewers)

[NHouston]

Just picked up a 2010 LC and baselining my fluids.

Can someone tell me the brake bleed sequence for a 200 series? I am assuming PS Rear, DS Rear, PS Front, DS Front.

Thanks!

 

[Atwalz]

Sequence is correct. Rear is slightly different method than old pumping method. Turn ignition on, motor off, press pedal and some else open bleed screw while pedal is pressed for no more than 10 sec at a time. Close bleed screw and release pedal. Repeat after short while maybe a minute. The key is not to overwork the pump and keep fluid above min in reservoir. I would evacuate the old fluid from brake reservior and then put new fluid, so doing this will minimize time to pump thru first line bleed on PR side. Enjoy!

 

[LBridges]

Since you mention baselining, I assume that means fluid replacement and not just bleeding. In that case Atwalz's suggestions work for the lines and reservoir.

I'm also assuming you have read on the 100 forum that for the 100 series a working version of Techstream helps with pushing the fluid through the ABS system. Haven't done any 200 series brake work (yet), but my guess is it's the same sort of procedure.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Front Right (US passenger), Front Left (US Driver), Rear Right (US passenger), Rear Left (US Driver)

That's from the FSM I have, I know they make changes to FSMs, maybe @Atwalz FSM is more up to date than mine. Yet, every Toyota I've worked on since the 4th gen 4Runner came out in '03 has said to bleed the fronts (in some order) before the rears (again, in some order)

BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM
CAUTION: If air is bled without using the intelligent tester, damage or accidents may result. Therefore, always use the intelligent tester when bleeding air.

a. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
b. Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.
c. Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.
d. Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH
e. Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

f. Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

g. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT:

• Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
• Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
• As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.

h. When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

i. Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
j. Turn the ignition switch off and connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.
k. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
l. Turn the intelligent tester on.
m. Enter the following menus: Chassis / ABS/VSC/TRC / Utility / Air Bleeding.

NOTICE: To protect the solenoid from overheating, the solenoid operation stops automatically in 4 seconds, and then the solenoid will not respond to commands for an additional 20 seconds.
​

n. Repeatedly depress the brake pedal several times, and then, with the brake pedal depressed, turn FR on and bleed air.

HINT: Air returns to the brake master cylinder reservoir together with the brake fluid and is bled from the brake system.

NOTICE:

• As it is not possible to visually confirm that air is being bled, repeat this step 10 times.
• Do not loosen the bleeder plug.

o. Turn FL on and bleed air using the same procedures as for FR.
p. Turn RR on, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH and drain brake fluid.

HINT:

• Do not depress the brake pedal.
• As brake fluid is automatically drained while the pump and solenoid operate, it is not necessary to operate the brake pedal.

q. Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

r. Turn FL Line on and bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
s. Turn RR Line on and loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH.

HINT:Be sure to bleed air with the brake pedal depressed.​

t. Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

u. Turn RL Line on and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
v. Turn the intelligent tester off and turn the ignition switch off.
w. Inspect for brake fluid leaks.
x. Check and adjust the brake fluid level.
y. Clear the DTCs.

 

[Roy Park]

Front Right (US passenger), Front Left (US Driver), Rear Right (US passenger), Rear Left (US Driver)

That's from the FSM I have, I know they make changes to FSMs, maybe @Atwalz FSM is more up to date than mine. Yet, every Toyota I've worked on since the 4th gen 4Runner came out in '03 has said to bleed the fronts (in some order) before the rears (again, in some order)

BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM
CAUTION: If air is bled without using the intelligent tester, damage or accidents may result. Therefore, always use the intelligent tester when bleeding air.

a. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
b. Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.
c. Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.
d. Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH
e. Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

f. Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

g. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT:

• Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
• Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
• As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.

h. When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

i. Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
j. Turn the ignition switch off and connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.
k. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
l. Turn the intelligent tester on.
m. Enter the following menus: Chassis / ABS/VSC/TRC / Utility / Air Bleeding.

NOTICE: To protect the solenoid from overheating, the solenoid operation stops automatically in 4 seconds, and then the solenoid will not respond to commands for an additional 20 seconds.
​

n. Repeatedly depress the brake pedal several times, and then, with the brake pedal depressed, turn FR on and bleed air.

HINT: Air returns to the brake master cylinder reservoir together with the brake fluid and is bled from the brake system.

NOTICE:

• As it is not possible to visually confirm that air is being bled, repeat this step 10 times.
• Do not loosen the bleeder plug.

o. Turn FL on and bleed air using the same procedures as for FR.
p. Turn RR on, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH and drain brake fluid.

HINT:

• Do not depress the brake pedal.
• As brake fluid is automatically drained while the pump and solenoid operate, it is not necessary to operate the brake pedal.

q. Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

r. Turn FL Line on and bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
s. Turn RR Line on and loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH.

HINT:Be sure to bleed air with the brake pedal depressed.​

t. Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug.

Torque: 11 N*m{ 110 kgf*cm , 8 ft.*lbf }​

u. Turn RL Line on and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
v. Turn the intelligent tester off and turn the ignition switch off.
w. Inspect for brake fluid leaks.
x. Check and adjust the brake fluid level.
y. Clear the DTCs.

These instructions scared me from installing my extended brake lines myself. Hahaha.

 

[NHouston]

My plan is to follow @Atwalz intstructions (empty and refill brake fluid reservoir, position to ON without starting, bleed lines pushing on brake no more than 10 seconds at a time while open- close and resting 60 seconds-repeat until all air and fresh fluid moves through)

(Sequence with PS Rear, DS Rear, PS Front, DS Front).

I don’t have a Techstream, but the 100 series You could bleed all brake lines then drive a gravel road activating the ABS a few times and repeat another bleed sequence.

Any reason this plan won’t work on a 200? Just don’t see any reason to pay local dealer $100+ bucks to exchange my brake fluid.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

My plan is to follow @Atwalz intstructions (empty and refill brake fluid reservoir, position to ON without starting, bleed lines pushing on brake no more than 10 seconds at a time while open- close and resting 60 seconds-repeat until all air and fresh fluid moves through)

(Sequence with PS Rear, DS Rear, PS Front, DS Front).

I don’t have a Techstream, but the 100 series You could bleed all brake lines then drive a gravel road activating the ABS a few times and repeat another bleed sequence.

Any reason this plan won’t work on a 200? Just don’t see any reason to pay local dealer $100+ bucks to exchange my brake fluid.

Well, I would follow what Toyota says the sequence is from the FSM I posted above. Your truck, though...

Things change with different generations. Unrelated, I grew up in a shop, and by far the most work we did was from people doing work "how they used to do it" and no learning the new procedures.

 

[NHouston]

Taco2Cruiser-thank you for the excerpt from your FSM. I am going to do some more research before proceeding. Don’t want to do anything careless here. I don’t have an Intelligent Tester, so maybe it makes sense to pay the dealer. My local dealer quoted $175 to do the brake flush. That’s a hard pill to swallow and seems fairly steep to me.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Taco2Cruiser-thank you for the excerpt from your FSM. I am going to do some more research before proceeding. Don’t want to do anything careless here. I don’t have an Intelligent Tester, so maybe it makes sense to pay the dealer. My local dealer quoted $175 to do the brake flush. That’s a hard pill to swallow and seems fairly steep to me.

Oh sorry brother, please let me elaborate. Bleeding the 200 is the same general process as a 100, with the exception of the sequence.

The 100 was built off the older architecture from the ‘90s where we bleed from the rear first. The 200 was built off the new booster design in the 2000s that want the front bleed first. That’s the only difference.

You don’t need the intelligent tester. I’ve bleed easily over a hundred new Toyota brake systems without an intelligent tester, then tested the brake system afterward with an intelligent tester and found no issues.

Just follow the instructions above, but don’t worry about the tester. That way you bleed your 200 the right way, and save money in the process.

 

[NLScooby]

I followed the FSM to bleed my brake system after I installed my extended SS brake lines. I don’t have the intelligent tester either. It’s the same as what @Taco2Cruiser described above. It’s not bad at all - my issue is that I tend to work best when alone (so my vocabulary choice goes unheard by my children)

 

[Atwalz]

@Taco2Cruiser sequence you mentioned is correct. But I have done bleed twice using rear axle first and doesn’t seem to make any difference. Sorry for confusion.

 

[NHouston]

Just so I am not confused, here is my plan:

1. Empty and refill brake fluid reservoir with new brake fluid
2. Turn to ON position
3. Open front passenger bleeder, Pump brake to remove all air and old fluid, close bleeder, make sure Fluid is topped off just below max line on reservoir
4. Repeat for front driver side
5. Repeat for rear passenger side
6. Repeat for rear driver side

Turn car off, then drive and test brakes.

Is this all I need to do Taco2Cruiser?

Is it needed after I do the sequence above to drive on a gravel road, activate the ABS a few times, and then do bleed sequence again?

 

[OregonLC]

You don’t need the intelligent tester. I’ve bleed easily over a hundred new Toyota brake systems without an intelligent tester, then tested the brake system afterward with an intelligent tester and found no issues.

I agree with this from the standpoint of bleeding the air out of the lines, however you'll have residual fluid in the ABS housing that won't get purged. Opening those valves with Techstream is the only way to get a complete fluid exchange. And honestly, I'm far less worried about old fluid corroding then lines than I am about damage to the ABS system. That's where the money is and where flesh fluid is needed the most.

One other warning from real-life experience: higher mile vehicles can end up with a ridge developing in the master cylinder where the normal stroke stops. You push the pedal a hundred thousand times and it wears. Then when you remove all resistance and bleed the system with full pedal strokes you score the seal on that ridge and end up with a MC leak. I've not had this happen on a 100 or 200 but have had it happen on older Toyotas and Hondas (both clutch and brake) shortly after bleeding. Those were vacuum assisted systems so the design may be somewhat different, but I try to use only normal strokes now when I bleed brakes.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Just so I am not confused, here is my plan:

1. Empty and refill brake fluid reservoir with new brake fluid
2. Turn to ON position
3. Open front passenger bleeder, Pump brake to remove all air and old fluid, close bleeder, make sure Fluid is topped off just below max line on reservoir
4. Repeat for front driver side
5. Repeat for rear passenger side
6. Repeat for rear driver side

Turn car off, then drive and test brakes.

Is this all I need to do Taco2Cruiser?

Is it needed after I do the sequence above to drive on a gravel road, activate the ABS a few times, and then do bleed sequence again?

You don’t want to try and empty the resi, and you won’t get much out from sucking it up through the top. So just push it out the front right, and make sure, that you absolutely don’t let the fluid get so low as it sucks down it to the holes at the bottom of the resi.

If you get air bubbles in the master cylinder because of low fluid, you’ll have to pull that part and bench bleed it.

The first corner is slower, as you’ll be pushing out a lot of fluid because you’re essentially mixing old and new fluid until your happy, then close up that front right bleeder valve and the other three corners will be how you mentioned to go it.

 

[Cruisin911]

Anyone us a power bleeder? Ive got a Motiv one I've used on all my other cars, wouldn't that be easier than this? Any disadvantages to doing this?

 

[Malleus]

^this

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Anyone us a power bleeder? Ive got a Motiv one I've used on all my other cars, wouldn't that be easier than this? Any disadvantages to doing this?

Does that devise pull fluid out from sucking it from the bleeder?

 

[Malleus]

No, the Motive is a pressure bleeder; really just a pump sprayer. It pushes fluid into the system. Worst like a champ on the 80s. I don't know about using it on the 200s, since they have a pump...

 

[m3fan]

I usually use a vacuum pump (Mytyvac) with a brake nipple adaptor on it. No fooling with the ABS or the pedal and it's a one-man operation. All the fluid nicely ends up in the Mytyvac, too.

 

[OregonLC]

I usually use a vacuum pump (Mytyvac) with a brake nipple adaptor on it. No fooling with the ABS or the pedal and it's a one-man operation. Some of the fluid nicely ends up in the Mytyvac, too.

Fixed. You're not getting everything out of the system.