1hz injector pump noise. (1 Viewer)

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Copied from 70s forum.

Sounds like a beehive coming from injector pump. Doesn't want to go over 2100rpm when driving, loss of power and hesitation. Just had her shipped from Australia (I owned her over there too).

Drove 3 hours after getting from the boat. Next day filled up and about 30 min later this happens..

Driving over mountain pass when I begin to have hesitation at 2200rpm but could still maintain 100kmh.

Going to change filter today to see if that helps. Any ideas?
 
How many klms has the pump done? There is a mesh filter under the banjo where the fuel enters the pump, check that for obstructions. You could also disconnect the fuel return hose and see how much is coming out of there while its running.
 
Its probably on the original pump. 420klms is at the upper end of its limits when it comes to 1HZ rotary pumps, but its odd that it went bad 30mins after a refuel. The noise is a worry.
 
Hesitation and loss of power can also be due to air getting sucked into the fuel lines somewhere.
Does it blow white smoke out the back when it's hesitating? (Indicates air in the fuel)

2200rpm up a hill is perfect scenario for this, you're engine is really demanding a lot of fuel in that situation. it's exactly when an air leak can show up.
It's quite possible to have air sucked in with no sign of a fuel leak.
Air in the fuel messes up injection timing momentarily too which is partly why it stumbles and loses power

Could be loose filter element, or leaking primer pump the filter housing.
How was it shipped? Is it possible a fuel line was damaged by strapping, chains etc

I had air leak issues with the 1HZ in my 105series. Came on unexpectedly, and happened at 2200 - 2400rpm, accelerating hard, or up hills etc. I changed injectors, and was sure my IP had shat the bed. I found my air leak issue by temporarily connecting the IP pump to the fuel filter with clear hose.
I'd try this before panicking about the pump. $10 piece of hose, 10 minutes to install, it's good, simple diagnostic tool.

Air leak doesn't necessarily explain a noisy fuel pump, but they are very noisy anyway. The fuel pump is responsible for a fair chunk of the noise a 1HZ makes.

Another thing to check is the air filter, filter housing, and intake piping. Make sure they are all clear. Was the rig stored for any length of time? Could a squirrel, or rats nest be in there?
 
Wow thanks for the replies guys.

It was shipped over via RoRo over 6 weeks. Not sure if it was stored inside the ship or if it was exposed.

It is definately a new sound. Poor girl.

I'm changing fuel filter tonight and will work on searching for a possible fuel leak
 
420k km on the pump is a fair run, but it certainly doesn't mean it's at the end of its life.
I have two separate relatives with single owner 4x4 with same VE rotary pumps with well in excess of those miles on original fuel pumps.
One was a Land Rover Defender with Isuzu diesel, it was in the family until about 600k km, engine was never touched except for basic, routine maintenance.
(Most of the rest of the rig was falling apart well before then!).
The other was a Nissan with TD42 engine, last I heard, my cousin (inherited the car from her dad at around 400k km) had clocked over the 800k km mark. Again, engine all original.
 
420k km on the pump is a fair run, but it certainly doesn't mean it's at the end of its life.
I have two separate relatives with single owner 4x4 with same VE rotary pumps with well in excess of those miles on original fuel pumps.
One was a Land Rover Defender with Isuzu diesel, it was in the family until about 600k km, engine was never touched except for basic, routine maintenance.
(Most of the rest of the rig was falling apart well before then!).
The other was a Nissan with TD42 engine, last I heard, my cousin (inherited the car from her dad at around 400k km) had clocked over the 800k km mark. Again, engine all original.


There are plenty of pumps that will outlast the 1HZ 1HD pumps. I remember well the guy who rebuilt a 1HZ pump for me saying that the Nissan and even other Toyota pumps will outlast the 1HZ. He wasn't sure what killed them earlier than the others but he thought they didn't shed heat as well as the others or that there was some inherent vibration in the crank/timing gear that travelled up to the pump. Another diesel mechanic said he believed the internals expanded too much when hot causing friction. Plenty of owners on here have had their 1HD T pumps rebuilt sub 400k.
Adamfire's pump is making a noise like a beehive, that's never good news.
But I would certainly be checking all the easy things before I got my wallet out.
 
Adamfire's pump is making a noise like a beehive, that's never good news.
But I would certainly be checking all the easy things before I got my wallet out.

Agreed on all points.

I'm thinking if it's digesting a belly full of air, that might explain it being noisy.

It may well be on its last legs, but when something is wrong, it's easy to hear all sorts of noises as being a sure sign of impending doom.

In my case, I was 99% ready to spend $2500 on pump work that was not necessary. Problem was fixed with a $150 filter housing and $20 worth of new fuel hose as a precaution.
 
@AdamFire one thing you can do is use a long breaker bar, long screwdriver etc to listen to the pump, at the very least, it's an interesting exercise.
Wrap your fist around one end, hold the other end firmly against the body of the fuel pump, place your ear against the top of your fist to listen. The tool will amplify the noises directly in the vicinity of where you're placed it. Move it around to different parts of the pump, engine etc.

Everything in an engine should sounds rythmical and even. Sometimes when there's a mechanical failure, you'll here a distinctly out of place noise.
 
So I put a new few filter on and it seems to be running like normal again. The pump still sounds noisy but I could just be being paranoid.
 
Sounds fine to me. I bet you have some crap in the tank that got stirred up when you filled at after RORO... they like the tanks damn near empty onboard. Do you have a clear bowl sedimentor next to the fuel filter housing? Any flakes in it?

Change all the filters and do the timing belt and water pump no matter what documentation you have. Glad to see another 70 in OR!:beer:
 
Glad it sounds fine to you guys. I've had two vehicles break down on me lately during long journeys so naturally i'm a bit paranoid!

I don't have a clear bowl sedimentor; the new fuel filter is about 2x the size of the old one. I'll keep an extra behind my seat from now on.

I had the timing belt changed while I was still living in Australia, I wish I would have done more to it when I was down there. I have a power steering pump and box leak, transfer case leak and rear main seal leaking currently. Not major leaks but your standard drip drip. I'll order a water pump while i'm at it. What websites do you recommend to order from?

-Adam
 
Is it that clatter you are trying to pick up in the video? Good to see it running somewhat normal again. Does it have the factory pre filter, they are a good investment? If you still have the old filter its a good idea to cut them up on a saw and see what they are like inside. In case you didn't know, each tank has a drain plug underneath.
 
rear main seal leaking currently. Not major leaks but your standard drip drip

Try a bottle of power steering pump reconditoner in with the engine oil. It can stop that leak but it will take a 1000mile or so. When I bought my current HZJ75 it started leaking on a 1300klm trip back from Paraburdoo to Perth. I was annoyed to say the least but it stopped 2 weeks later. The vehicle had only done 4000klms in 4 years.

I don't know about the US but the price of gearbox lifters has dropped so much here I will be buying one when I need it. Last time I checked ,the daily rental rate for 2 days was the about the same as the purchase price.
Its an easy job, just hard work. You can do the clutch and get the flywheel machined while you are under there.
 

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