EGR valve seal-- how air tight? (1 Viewer)

[red66toy]

Hey everyone,
I am trying to solve a code 71 which is related to the EGR temp sensor. I am cleaning out the EGR right now. It actually looked pretty clean inside but I was wondering how air tight is that little valve supposed to be? I can blow air through it even though its closed. Not a lot but I can hear it coming out the exit pipe.

 

[OSS]

A new EGR valve is absolutely air tight. Keep cleaning. That being said, a tiny air leak won't be significant- but "tiny" is open to interpretation.

 

[Live to Ski]

red66toy: How are you cleaning that egr valve/valve seat?

"tiny leak": any leak will lower vacuum. Remember, this is under high vacuum, so small leak on test stand will be magnified.

 

[emac]

subscribed...Curious how to clean it as well.

 

[red66toy]

Thanks, I'll keep cleaning. I need to get a little vacuum pump to actuate it while cleaning.
Cleaning method, as per @OSS instructions, is to use oven cleaner and scrub/scrape it clean inside. ill post up photos. I basically shot oven cleaner inside the valve (being careful to not get any cleaner on the vacuum actuator) and let it sit for a few hours before scrubbing.

 

[red66toy]

Ok so after five oven cleaner soaks (one over night) followed by carb cleaner blow outs, I can no longer blow air through it. Well not that I can tell. I get the little vacuum actuator tomorrow so I can fully test it out and clean it a little better.
I'll post up photos tomorrow.

 

[Live to Ski]

Cool.

How are you cleaning the tapered plunger and it's respective tapered seat?

Also, how do you keep the chemicals away from the diaphragm?

 

[red66toy]

Cool.

How are you cleaning the tapered plunger and it's respective tapered seat?

Also, how do you keep the chemicals away from the diaphragm?

So I made this little deal today. Its a dremel cone brush JB welded to a little 5/32nds tube. I just got a little hand vacuum pump to open the valve to actually use the brush. So far I have just cleaned it with the valve closed but that helped so I this might be overkill

 

[OSS]

That's a great idea. I wish I had one of those.

 

[red66toy]

That's a great idea. I wish I had one of those.

Well we will see how well it actually works tomorrow!

 

[Live to Ski]

Looking forward to the report....

 

[red66toy]

Well as with all first prototypes, the little brush didn't work because it was too big! If I found one half as wide that would have been perfect. What worked best with cleaning was doing the oven cleaner soaks, rinsing with carb cleaner and twisting those blue shop paper towels in there to help pull the crud out. The best way to get the oven cleaner in there is to unbolt the stainless tube from the EGR body so you can have a direct firing line at the little valve inside.
However, despite it looking pretty dang clean (sorry I can't get a photo of it because its so far in the tube for the camera to focus), I am still getting air past the valve. Somehow the valve is not closing all the way but I cant see or feel anything obstructing it.
Not sure how to proceed. I feel like I have cleaned it VERY well but maybe I am missing something.

I will say that I tested a spare EGR. I can't really blow air through it when the valve is closed.... but the rubber actuating diaphragm wont hold a vacuum for that long so not seeming like a worthy replacement.

 

[red66toy]

Ok, made as much progress as I am going to make. I have to blow much harder to get air through so its a huge improvement. Not perfect but its better so I'll run it. I used dental picks to scrape around the valve, MAF cleaner to blow out any chunks of crud and clean up the metal. Looks nice and shiny!
You can see the closed valve at the bottom of the tube. cleeeean

 

[Live to Ski]

red66toy: a valiant effort! Not sure, but thinking your egr is different than the fj60's valves.

Stinks that the only option for 60 folks is a new aftermarket @ $200+ And that doesn't include all the compression attachments that may/may not survive the tear down/reassembly.

 

[OSS]

Stinks that the only option for 60 folks is a new aftermarket @ $200+ And that doesn't include all the compression attachments that may/may not survive the tear down/reassembly.

what other EGR valve fits the 60? I've never heard of such blasphemy. Link?

 

[red66toy]

red66toy: a valiant effort! Not sure, but thinking your egr is different than the fj60's valves.

Stinks that the only option for 60 folks is a new aftermarket @ $200+ And that doesn't include all the compression attachments that may/may not survive the tear down/reassembly.

I haven never seen an aftermarket EGR? The 2F EGR valve looks way easier to clean! Its a straight and short shot to the valve. Stupid 3FE with the curved tube just had to make it harder..

 

[Live to Ski]

Aftermarket egr: Geez, I think you are right. a few years ago I could get an aftermarket one thru O'reilly's. Just looked and nothing is available.

I guess I am more screwed than I thought

Regarding easier to clean: I researched the hell out of that years ago. Nothing is easy. Shoot, just getting that valve out and on the bench is an adventure in itself. And besides, getting solvents in the valve area w/o impacting diaphragm is tough. If anyone can post a procure, I"m all ears!

 

[red66toy]

Aftermarket egr: Geez, I think you are right. a few years ago I could get an aftermarket one thru O'reilly's. Just looked and nothing is available.

I guess I am more screwed than I thought

Regarding easier to clean: I researched the hell out of that years ago. Nothing is easy. Shoot, just getting that valve out and on the bench is an adventure in itself. And besides, getting solvents in the valve area w/o impacting diaphragm is tough. If anyone can post a procure, I"m all ears!

So the rubber diaphragm is well separated from the internal metal valve that needs cleaning. I think as long as you dont just dunk the whole EGR assembly in a bucket of cleaner you will be fine. Just spray the cleaners into the throat of the EGR at the metal valve. The oven cleaner is thick and foamy so I sprayed the valve and let it sit on its side. Just in the off chance any corrosive liquid would some how weep past the metal actuating shaft, out of the EGR body and onto the external rubber diaphragm.

 

[OSS]

If the EGR valve sometimes doesn't seal fully and occasionally sticks open, that's caused by carbon build up on the thin valve stem that leads up into the diaphragm chamber. Careful scrapping with small tools reaching in there can get it clean. Actuate the diaphragm a lot while cleaning it to move the rod up & down. Basically (from my experience) you clean it for as long as your patience allows- until you get sick of doing it.

The vapors from Mr Muscle oven cleaner will literally dissolve your lungs. Be very careful using it - use plenty of forced air ventilation outside (not garage). Use a fan. Use a carbon cartridge face mask. Stay away from it. Super nasty stuff.

 

[FJ60BigLou]

I have a real noob question. Been looking at code readers and most are OBD2 (96 and older). I have an 85 60 I’m restoring and hope to fire it up this spring. Thought the code reader would help me with the tweaks I know are waiting for me. How did you read yours? Advice?