Yazaki FLWX Fusible Links (1 Viewer)

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I was just looking through photos and came across a picture of my new fusible links. They say "YAZAKI FLWX".

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I found this Yazaki PDF:

http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/cables/pdf/45_FLWX.pdf

I know that people have asked about the specs of the fusible links, so here's what I can gather from the PDF:

Code:
Size    Strands/Dia.    Cross-Section   Wire O.D.   O.D     Color   Resistance (Ω/m)    AWG
0.5     7/0.32mm        0.5629mm²       1.0mm       3.0mm   Green   0.0354              19 - 20
0.85    11/0.32mm       0.8846mm²       1.2mm       3.2mm   Red     0.0225              18
1.0     13/0.32mm       1.046mm²        1.3mm       3.3mm   Yellow  0.0191              17
1.25    16/0.32mm       1.287mm²        1.5mm       3.5mm   Black   0.0155              16 - 17
1.5     19/0.32mm       1.528mm²        1.6mm       3.6mm   Gray    0.0127              16
2       26/0.32mm       2.091mm²        1.9mm       3.9mm   Blue    0.00954             14
3       41/0.32mm       3.297mm²        2.4mm       4.4mm   White   0.00605             12 - 13

It took me awhile to realize that the first column, which I'm calling 'size', is just the cross-section area rounded. The AWG column is my own estimate based on a couple of AWG-to-metric charts.

This is probably enough information to put together your own replacement using local parts, in the event that your fusible links fail and you can't wait for Toyota parts (you do have a spare 90982-08264 in your glovebox, right?).
 
The spark plug wires are also made by YAZAKI...
 
The spark plug wires are also made by YAZAKI...

I think Yazaki must have been the supplier of just about every wire and connector product on the whole rig! Too bad there's no easy way for regular folks to order their products directly...
 
For a whole $12 each, I keep 2 in the glove box. I'm just crazy that way.

Same. 2 in each 80. I also replace them every 5 years now.
 
Hey guys, I just replaced the fusible links also. This may be a silly question but are the fusible links the two short wires you get in the package or the little black thing there connected to, with the small and large screw?
 
Hey guys, I just replaced the fusible links also. This may be a silly question but are the fusible links the two short wires you get in the package or the little black thing there connected to, with the small and large screw?

No that’s the junction block.
 
Ok, so the two small wire are the fusible links?
 
Same. 2 in each 80. I also replace them every 5 years now.

The one in my truck is 22yrs old and don't carry a spare.:meh: Have had a couple break on the trail, mostly from running the wrong battery. For me, crimping it back together is a quicker/easier trail repair, order new and replace once home.
 
Yes yes, thats what I got also,thanks. How do you test the gray connector to see if has blown. Reason why I am asking is my cdl stopped working, no clicking from relay no whirring sound from the actuator. I did most all tests, I should start a new thread for this,right?
 
Is the Red wire in the chart above the pinkish color (to my eyes) wire in our 80 series Fusible Link?

Thanks to gummycarbs for the info.
 
^ No, it should be pink (hence the 0.3 size).

I have this chart from my Nissan - which is 'probably/maybe' the same as Toyota.

Nissan Fusible link colours

Pink 30A
Green 40A
Red 50A
Yellow 60A
Black 80A
Blue 100A

Note. Fusible links are designed to fuse/melt based on severity/time of the 'event'. They are basically just wire gauge that is chosen to fuse in X time if Y current flow. They have a silicone (high temperature) insulation material so that the melting/fusing of the wire is captured within the insulation material versus bursting into flames :)

The whole point is that the fusible link should fuse/melt BEFORE any wiring downline from the link (and before any normal fuse) is at risk of fusing/melting.

cheers,
george.
 
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The one in my truck is 22yrs old and don't carry a spare.:meh: Have had a couple break on the trail, mostly from running the wrong battery. For me, crimping it back together is a quicker/easier trail repair, order new and replace once home.

Cool. I’d rather waste a few bucks than worry about it.
 
Cool. I’d rather waste a few bucks than worry about it.

I will leave the worry to you, doesn't concern me in the least. Every time we have had to deal with it, there have been spares on site, find it much easier/expedient to simply splice it back together, then replace later in town. If they are failing often there is something wrong, most of them we have seen were from wrong batteries and/or ineffective or missing hold down. They are pretty brittle, so don't take being stretched, if they are not stressed, will last pretty much forever.
 
Any time I’ve had to deal with there have been spares on site as well. Because I keep them in my glove box. I had one fail from a battery box vibration. I’ve been with three others that have failed and didn’t have spares. But I did.
 

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