KZJ 78, New injectors and glow plugs, Hard start, white smoke. (1 Viewer)

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Nov 24, 2017
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Hey gang,
I just installed new injectors, Genuine Toyota Denso 1kz-te injectors and new genuine toyota glow plugs. My truck is having a hard time starting and puffs a big shot of white smoke when it finally does fire. I am turning the ignition to on, then waiting about 5 seconds until I turn it to start. Also It feels slightly rough when accelerating hard. I only have about 100km on the new injectors and glow plugs. Wondering if I might have air in the lines still, would that have worked its way out by now if there was any. Also smells a lot more diesel exhaust when idling once warmed up now. White smoke while warming up. Not sure about what the fuel economy now with the new injectors. Old ones had 265000km on them and figure it was time to change. Should I be worried? Drive it longer and see whats up? Also when I removed the intake pipe from the turbo to the manifold I noticed a little oil in the inside of the pipe at the rubber fitting between the turbo and the pipe.

1995 KZJ78 with 265000km. 1KZ-TE motor. EGR delete, butterfly removed, Blanking plates on the EGR, All vacuum lines connected or blocked and sealed.

Cheers
 
You need to increase the glow time to approx 10+ seconds then start, even tho the glow light will go off at 3 seconds the glow is still active.

Thanks Oldblue,
I wasn't aware they stayed glowing after the light goes off. My light sometimes only comes on for a fraction of a second, Especially with my lower rad hose heater plugged in (I live in alberta, canada it's been a cold winter). My only other question is my fuel economy has gotten worse since putting in my new injectors. Gone from 13l/100 to well over 15l/100. Only one tank in so hopefully it's not a trend. Is that normal? I expected better economy to be honest. I will get my Valves adjusted this week as they haven't been done and it's 265k in now.

Cheers
 
When I brought my Prado KZJ71 , I conected a 12volt light to the glow plug bar and found that the power ( duration of time ) to the plugs is determined by heat of the motor. ie Cold motor , plugs stayed on longer than a hot motor. And on a realy cold start up I would double glow the glow time.= approx 20 to 25 seconds. I get 13Lt per 100Km and 17Lt per 100Km when towing a caravan.
 
When I brought my Prado KZJ71 , I conected a 12volt light to the glow plug bar and found that the power ( duration of time ) to the plugs is determined by heat of the motor. ie Cold motor , plugs stayed on longer than a hot motor. And on a realy cold start up I would double glow the glow time.= approx 20 to 25 seconds. I get 13Lt per 100Km and 17Lt per 100Km when towing a caravan.

Thanks OldBlue,
I'll have someone help me turn on the truck and I'll use a volt meter. I think I was assuming that because the light on the dash went out quickly that they were done glowing, I'll check and get back to you. I also think that the injectors that I was sent from the Land Cruiser shop here in Alberta is for a 1KZ-T not the 1kz-te and the opening pressure is 5 bar lower, So i think that might be why my milage has gotten worse since putting in the new injectors. Bit of a bummer as they cost me a small fortune. I guess I'll just get my old ones rebuilt and see if I can sell the new ones to a 1kz-t owner.

cheers.

Lomo
 
Thanks OldBlue,
I'll have someone help me turn on the truck and I'll use a volt meter. I think I was assuming that because the light on the dash went out quickly that they were done glowing, I'll check and get back to you. I also think that the injectors that I was sent from the Land Cruiser shop here in Alberta is for a 1KZ-T not the 1kz-te and the opening pressure is 5 bar lower, So i think that might be why my milage has gotten worse since putting in the new injectors. Bit of a bummer as they cost me a small fortune. I guess I'll just get my old ones rebuilt and see if I can sell the new ones to a 1kz-t owner.

cheers.

Lomo

You could send the injectors back and get them re-shimmed for the correct pressure. In my experience, if they are set lower pressure they run richer (will be open longer), if set higher pressure they run leaner. I looked into it very briefly, and it looks like the two types of injectors use different nozzles and nozzle holders as well, so maybe it's best just to get the right thing.

You used new washers when you re-installed (especially nozzle crush washers?)? You torqued the injectors correctly? There are no leaks around the injectors?
 
You could send the injectors back and get them re-shimmed for the correct pressure. In my experience, if they are set lower pressure they run richer (will be open longer), if set higher pressure they run leaner. I looked into it very briefly, and it looks like the two types of injectors use different nozzles and nozzle holders as well, so maybe it's best just to get the right thing.

You used new washers when you re-installed (especially nozzle crush washers?)? You torqued the injectors correctly? There are no leaks around the injectors?

Hey GTS,
I have sent an email to the company that sold me them and haven't heard anything back yet. I did indeed use new crush washers and new leak down washers as well. Properly torqued, no leaks.

With the new glow plugs it's really hard to start my truck now even if I let them cycle twice. Thinking it might be time to replace the relay but seems suspect that with the new plugs and injectors it's gotten significantly worse.

Cheers

Lomo
 
Hey GTS,
I have sent an email to the company that sold me them and haven't heard anything back yet. I did indeed use new crush washers and new leak down washers as well. Properly torqued, no leaks.

With the new glow plugs it's really hard to start my truck now even if I let them cycle twice. Thinking it might be time to replace the relay but seems suspect that with the new plugs and injectors it's gotten significantly worse.

Cheers

Lomo

Are you absolutely sure you have the right glow plug part number? Have you tested the voltage at them while the truck is glowing? Have someone else glow it (when engine is cold), and test at each plug with a meter. Should be 11v for the first 8 seconds or so, and then 6v after if it's the standard super glow type system.
 
Are you absolutely sure you have the right glow plug part number? Have you tested the voltage at them while the truck is glowing? Have someone else glow it (when engine is cold), and test at each plug with a meter. Should be 11v for the first 8 seconds or so, and then 6v after if it's the standard super glow type system.

Hey,
I definitely have the right part number. I'll check them on my next day off to make sure I'm getting a long enough glow with a voltage meter. Right now my light on my dash only comes on for a second at most. Even when the motor is stone cold.
 
Hey,
I definitely have the right part number. I'll check them on my next day off to make sure I'm getting a long enough glow with a voltage meter. Right now my light on my dash only comes on for a second at most. Even when the motor is stone cold.

As said above, you really can't go by that light. It's completely useless. I listen for the glow relay on mine. It's the one that you hear click after about 8 seconds on a cold morning.

If your injectors are wrong, they could very well cause your starting issues also.

Generally, if your truck runs one way before you do a repair, and runs differently after, it's something you've changed that has caused the difference. Unlikely something else just happened to fail at the same time.
 
Agreed about the light. I made that error when I first got mine. I thought that light actually meant something. Now that I fully understand how the system works, I question why the light is even there. It indicates exactly nothing!
 
First I would bleed the injectors again.
If that didn't fix it I would be getting the injectors adjusted and preferably matched to the pump pressure.
Unless the injectors came with some kind of guarantee they were set correctly I would consider them suspect.
On some of the Toyota diesels, different markets have the injectors set at different cracking pressure to meet emissions standards.
 
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So Just an update.

I checked voltage at the connecting bar for the glow plugs and I get 11 volts for well over ten seconds when the engine is cold but then it drops to zero after that. I checked the resistance on my old glow plugs and they are all around 0.4 ohms. Pulled the new glow plugs (HKT CP-22 which is correct for the 1kz-te) all of the glow plugs are 0.4 ohms as well. Put old Glow plugs back in. Fires up no problems now. So obviously there was something wrong with the brand new CP-22 glow plugs. Is there any other checks for glow plugs so I can try to get my money back from the vendor as the new ones were faulty somehow.

Thanks for all the input guys.

Lomo
 
If you’re glow system is similar to the old style superglow, you should have fullish voltage for a short time and then drop to have volts for the rest of the time.
Sounds like your new plugs are good. Are they rated the same volts as the old?

They are rated the same. They are the CP-22 which are 1kz-te glow plugs. The new ones don't work, the old ones do. So there is something not right with the new plugs. Worked with the old plugs, put new plugs in and wouldn't start, pulled new plugs in and it starts fine. The problem is with the new plugs, the system works. Is there any other tests for the plugs?

Cheers
 
Just test for continuity, nothing much more to do I believe, pretty simple piece of equipment.

Yeah that's why I am confused. Has proper resistance, but they clearly don't work. Hard start, tons of smoke and misfire. Old plugs back in and the motor fires up just fine when cold (-10).

Thanks for all your suggestions guys.

Lomo
 

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