Has anybody ever used the Blue Driver App? (1 Viewer)

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Jan 14, 2017
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Location
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I have a misfire problem on my 1996 LX450 with a 1997 LC engine swap.

I just installed the engine and keep getting misfires on cylinders 3 and 6.

So, I got the Blue Driver and app and I've been monitoring the data live.

I've had lots of problems with O2 sensors in the past so I have a sneaking suspicion a faulty one could be causing me problems now but not triggering a code for it.

In the past, I had issues with faulty O2 sensors that also didn't trigger codes.

On the live data from the Blue Driver app I'm getting 99.2% short term fuel trim on one O2 sensor and never more than 10.2% on the other.

I can tell from the exhaust that it is running VERY rich.

The Check Engine light is on and flashing.

When I replaced the spark plugs all six were soaked in gas so if there's an injector problem it isn't because it isn't getting fuel to the cylinder.

I've cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor.

I do have a torn intake boot currently sealed up with duck tape until the new one arrives early next week.

I'm thinking I must have a bad O2 sensor but I was thinking that before.

I guess I was wondering if any of you have used BlueDriver and whether you could trust the data.

The sensor plugs into the OBDII port and connects to your device via bluetooth.

I'm thinking I have at least one bad O2 sensor.

I had a 1998 Jeep Cherokee that was running like scheisse and gave me all kinds of codes but never one for a faulty O2 sensor.

I then replaced it with a cheap Bosch one and it just got worse complete with backfiring which I am also getting now with the LX.

I was then forced to go to the Jeep stealership with my tail between my legs to see if they could help.

Within about five minutes the tech told me my problem was the Bosch O2 sensor.

I bought the one at the dealership and it worked flawlessly from then on.
 
If the misfire is constantly on #3 and. 6, it is unlikely to be the oz sensor. If it was the miss would be random on all 6 cylinders. It is most likely an spark or fuel problem, hopefully not a valve or compression issue.
 
If the misfire is constantly on #3 and. 6, it is unlikely to be the oz sensor. If it was the miss would be random on all 6 cylinders. It is most likely an spark or fuel problem, hopefully not a valve or compression issue.

Well, I get the code 300 which is generic misfire followed by the three and six misfire.

How would you explain the funky O2 sensor readings?

They're barely more than a foot apart?
 
What matters is that there's a cat between them. That's why there are two; they're there to check the before and after gases.
 
What matters is that there's a cat between them. That's why there are two; they're there to check the before and after gases.

Roger that. They are SUPPOSED to get different readings if everything else is working ok. I have seen several rigs pop up with a 300 code and then later pop a 301/2/3/4/5/6 whatever specific cylinder number for the problem. You could clear the codes and then run it until it recodes and the 300 may well be gone.
 
I'd look past the O2 sensors as your issue. They shouldn't cause a misfire.

Seems like you're not getting a spark on those cylinders, right? Have you checked your timing, distributor, spark plug wires, grounds, etc?

Have you run a compression test on new motor?
 
Could be a misfire due to running too rich.

If you are positive that all the plugs have a fuel smell and that your exhaust smells rich. Can you look at the LTFT and STFT and see what they are?

You should be getting a check engine light for the fuel trims if they are over 20%. That alone shouldn't be enough to cause a misfire but if it is under load in open loop it would be getting very very rich and that might cause a misfire, not to mention washing the cylinder bores. Does the oil smell like fuel?
 
Could be a misfire due to running too rich.

If you are positive that all the plugs have a fuel smell and that your exhaust smells rich. Can you look at the LTFT and STFT and see what they are?

You should be getting a check engine light for the fuel trims if they are over 20%. That alone shouldn't be enough to cause a misfire but if it is under load in open loop it would be getting very very rich and that might cause a misfire, not to mention washing the cylinder bores. Does the oil smell like fuel?

Yes it does smell like fuel.

I even let it idle until it was in closed loop and then drove it down the street with not much power and backfiring.

Short term fuel trim percentage bank one sensor 2 was consistently 99.2%. It never changed throughout the datalogging session.

Short term fuel trim percentage bank one sensor 1 started out at 10.2% went up to 10.8% at one point then went consistently down even getting into the negatives multiple times until at the end of the report it was a consistent 0%.

No check engine light for anything but misfires.

The general P0300 and the specific P0303 and P0306.

CEL always ends up flashing too.
 
I have had a blue driver for 3 years and have been happy with it so far. It hasn't lied to me yet. And have used on multiple vehicles. I did notice it doesn' recognize 1995 OBD2 Vin , but it still reads codes... so :cheers:
 
I have had a blue driver for 3 years and have been happy with it so far. It hasn't lied to me yet. And have used on multiple vehicles. I did notice it doesn' recognize 1995 OBD2 Vin , but it still reads codes... so :cheers:

I thought OBDII didn't start until 1996?
 
Yea, I know, it's a stupid question, but do you have the #3 and #6 plug wires swapped on the dizzy?
 
Yea, I know, it's a stupid question, but do you have the #3 and #6 plug wires swapped on the dizzy?

Oh....MY....God....

I had typed "Nope, definitely not." into this field but before I hit enter I went out to check.

Yes, I did have them swapped.

Actually, they were swapped when I got the engine and I never checked.

I guess when the salvage yard was doing their compression checks for me they got them out of order.

When I replaced the wires in my troubleshooting I just kept the same order.

I assumed they were correct.

What a fool I feel right now.

I genuinely appreciate the simplicity of your approach to problem solving.

I could have used you as a neighbor instead of the one I have.

Thank you.

After reading your post I went out and swapped them.

The engine is running like a champ as I type this.

Thanks again.

What an idiot I am...
 
Oh....MY....God....

I had typed "Nope, definitely not." into this field but before I hit enter I went out to check.

Yes, I did have them swapped.

Actually, they were swapped when I got the engine and I never checked.

I guess when the salvage yard was doing their compression checks for me they got them out of order.

When I replaced the wires in my troubleshooting I just kept the same order.

I assumed they were correct.

What a fool I feel right now.

I genuinely appreciate the simplicity of your approach to problem solving.

I could have used you as a neighbor instead of the one I have.

Thank you.

After reading your post I went out and swapped them.

The engine is running like a champ as I type this.

Thanks again.

What an idiot I am...

HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY !!!!Nothing like a little good news to make your day better. Almost as good as winning the PowerBall !!
 
I thought OBDII didn't start until 1996?
Officially, yes started 1996, 1995's have it. I guess it was a practice run for Mr. T. Reader doesn't recognize VIN # but still have all the sensors and live feed.
And I don't have to plug it in at smog check! If I had 1.:cheers:
 
Change your oil. Its probably filled with gas.
 
EU OBD check engjne light flashing is a warning not to drive the vehicle, normally means lots of unburnt fuel entering the cat which poses a fire risk, sort the misfire and the cat should sort itself.

Regards

Dave
 

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