Just finished this update/mod and it’s awesome. I have low standards for car audio (too many fireworks as a kid) but at least one of my speakers was blown. This is a great way to keep the stock look with upgraded performance.
Modifications were minimal but here they are:
1. I made a gasket/spacer for the front speaker out of some 1/4” neoprene sheet that I already had.
2. To mount the front, I bought 3/4” long #12 sheet metal screws and reduced the depth of the head by about 50% on the bench grinder. This, combined with sanding down the back of the door panel (thin MDF-type board) only at the screw furthest forward, made the door panel sit flush.
3. For rears, just pop off the grille to remove the 3 screws holding the speaker; no door panel removal is necessary. I then modified the plastic “basket” and folded down 3 tabs on the speaker (removing the 4th with shears) to rivet to the basket.
4. I did have to remove the plastic “Y” pattern behind the grille on the rear speakers (but not the front). As it sits now, there is 1-3mm of clearance between the front of the speaker and the mesh on the grille.
5. For front and rear, I cut the original wiring harness (a separate plug for each speaker) at the speaker and used lineman’s splice, solder, and heat shrink to tie in to the spade connectors provided with the speakers.
Sound is much improved. A new head unit and Metra adaptor comes in later this week so I’ll be bypassing the stock amp and adding Bluetooth connectivity. For what it’s worth, I’ve done extensive research and chose the Sony XAV-AX100 for Apple play connectivity as well as a clean physical and digital interface and quality reviews. There’s also a write-up on this forum about how to change the load screen to a custom image; in their case and mine, a LandCruiser logo for a stock feel.
Thanks for all the info before me.. made the project much easier.
Modifications were minimal but here they are:
1. I made a gasket/spacer for the front speaker out of some 1/4” neoprene sheet that I already had.
2. To mount the front, I bought 3/4” long #12 sheet metal screws and reduced the depth of the head by about 50% on the bench grinder. This, combined with sanding down the back of the door panel (thin MDF-type board) only at the screw furthest forward, made the door panel sit flush.
3. For rears, just pop off the grille to remove the 3 screws holding the speaker; no door panel removal is necessary. I then modified the plastic “basket” and folded down 3 tabs on the speaker (removing the 4th with shears) to rivet to the basket.
4. I did have to remove the plastic “Y” pattern behind the grille on the rear speakers (but not the front). As it sits now, there is 1-3mm of clearance between the front of the speaker and the mesh on the grille.
5. For front and rear, I cut the original wiring harness (a separate plug for each speaker) at the speaker and used lineman’s splice, solder, and heat shrink to tie in to the spade connectors provided with the speakers.
Sound is much improved. A new head unit and Metra adaptor comes in later this week so I’ll be bypassing the stock amp and adding Bluetooth connectivity. For what it’s worth, I’ve done extensive research and chose the Sony XAV-AX100 for Apple play connectivity as well as a clean physical and digital interface and quality reviews. There’s also a write-up on this forum about how to change the load screen to a custom image; in their case and mine, a LandCruiser logo for a stock feel.
Thanks for all the info before me.. made the project much easier.