Lc200 o2 sensor replacement - anybody have instructions? (3 Viewers)

[Tundra61]

Hey all - I am looking to replace all four o2 sensors on my 2008 LC. Has anybody done this before and if so can yiu share the blow by blow details? If anybody has the official Toyota service instructions, they would be greatly appreciated!

Thx -Mike

 

[TonyP]

Remove old, install new? Seems fairly straightforward. An O2 sensor socket is your friend.

 

[Tundra61]

I suppose - yes it is that simple. I haven't crawled under the truck to check locations of the sensors butwaswondering if they were all easily assesible or if anything needed to be removed it get to the pre-cat ones specifically. I am away from the truck for the next few weeks so was doing some planning,

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Word of advice, just start now spraying them down with PB blaster. Give yourself the best chance to break them out cleanly.

Toyota wants you to remove the headers and mid pipes from the truck, then remove the sensors. When I used to work at a Toyota, I always tried to get the O2 and air/fuel sensor out without removing headers and mid pipes, but about half the time, i just had to. the sensor required too much force to break free.

Also to help your pocket book, Denso builds the sensors. If you want the good OE part for cheaper. Go to the Denso website and pull up the part number. Then go onto amazon and order 2x "Denso 234-9026" (that's your air/fuel or upstream sensors) for $100 each and 2x "Denso 234-4169" (that's your O2 or downstream sensors) for $40 each.

Through Toyota the air/fuel are $140 and the O2 are $120, that will save you $240 on the exact same product. Literally the exact same, just doesn't have a "Toyota" on the box, but that doesn't matter, because they are really Denso.

Torque all sensors to 32 ft lbs

 

[Tundra61]

Thank you. So on the land cruiser - did that truck fall into the 50% requiring mid pipe removal? I suppose it's the upstream one that's the most challenging

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

The 5.7 is actually one of the easiest Toyotas to get to the upstream sensors while on the truck. That said, my personal 200 they all came off easy, but about half the tundras and sequoias I've done required me to pull one or both headers.

A crowfoot extension helps a lot to get safe leverage on the sensor hex. But sometimes, you just need to put the exhaust pipe in a vice and take it down to pound town.

Just do it in steps, apply a ton of PB over a couple days, try with a crescent wrench, then with a crowfoot, then try move leverage of the wrench before removing pipes. If you need to remove pipes, again be liberal with penetrating lube, it works.

 

[Yossarian]

Toyota - New Subscription

$15 for 2 days gets you the factory information. I would like to get the FSM on media or downloaded sometime, but this is as up to date as it gets.

 

[Znarf]

Go to the Denso website and pull up the part number. Then go onto amazon and order 2x "Denso 234-9026" (that's your air/fuel or upstream sensors) for $100 each and 2x "Denso 234-4169" (that's your O2 or downstream sensors) for $40 each.

@Taco2Cruiser I was looking to get both pairs of 02 and Air/Fuel senors for my LX570, but when I checked on the Denso site I was given a separate part # for the left and right side A/F sensors, 234-4169 OE Style Right and 234-4260 OE Style Left.

This was similar to what the parts catalog for the online Toyota parts site I use here in Canada; 2x 89467-35110 front Left/Right O2 sensors, 1x Left Air/Fuel 89465-36040 and 1x Right A/F 89465-60370.

Did some searching and came across this thread. Hoping to clarify the A/F sensor part numbers for the 2 sides.

 

[NLScooby]

@Taco2Cruiser and @Tundra61
Curious as to why you had to replace them. Were yours throwing codes or what it a preventive maintenance endeavor?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

@Taco2Cruiser I was looking to get both pairs of 02 and Air/Fuel senors for my LX570, but when I checked on the Denso site I was given a separate part # for the left and right side A/F sensors, 234-4169 OE Style Right and 234-4260 OE Style Left.

This was similar to what the parts catalog for the online Toyota parts site I use here in Canada; 2x 89467-35110 front Left/Right O2 sensors, 1x Left Air/Fuel 89465-36040 and 1x Right A/F 89465-60370.

Did some searching and came across this thread. Hoping to clarify the A/F sensor part numbers for the 2 sides.

View attachment 1533409

View attachment 1533404

Maybe they changed things up from your 2008 to my 2011, or part numbers could of changed. Either way, just go with the Denso site say for OE parts for your truck.

@Taco2Cruiser and @Tundra61
Curious as to why you had to replace them. Were yours throwing codes or what it a preventive maintenance endeavor?

I learned this from tapping into Toyota ECUs over the years. I can basically eliminate the Toyota ECU, add my own, and fool the Toyota ECU into thinking it is still in control. Air/fuel and O2 sensors won't throw codes past 100,000 miles, but I did notice that their accuracy is not very good at that millage and beyond. So while completely unnecessary, I like peak efficiency, and for about $250, I can replace all 4 air/fuel & O2 and MAF sensors.

 

[drewdat]

I can replace all 4 air/fuel & O2 and MAF sensors.

Do you know who manufactures the OEM MAF sensor?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

At least for my ‘11 it was Denso.

 

[drewdat]

I can't seem to find a Denso MAF sensor anywhere. It's not listed on their site either:

http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part.aspx#

 

[drewdat]

I can't seem to find a Denso MAF sensor anywhere. It's not listed on their site either:

http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part.aspx#

Just found it.... Looks like it's HITACHI

 

[isthatalexus]

Word of advice, just start now spraying them down with PB blaster. Give yourself the best chance to break them out cleanly.

Toyota wants you to remove the headers and mid pipes from the truck, then remove the sensors. When I used to work at a Toyota, I always tried to get the O2 and air/fuel sensor out without removing headers and mid pipes, but about half the time, i just had to. the sensor required too much force to break free.

Also to help your pocket book, Denso builds the sensors. If you want the good OE part for cheaper. Go to the Denso website and pull up the part number. Then go onto amazon and order 2x "Denso 234-9026" (that's your air/fuel or upstream sensors) for $100 each and 2x "Denso 234-4169" (that's your O2 or downstream sensors) for $40 each.

Through Toyota the air/fuel are $140 and the O2 are $120, that will save you $240 on the exact same product. Literally the exact same, just doesn't have a "Toyota" on the box, but that doesn't matter, because they are really Denso.

Torque all sensors to 32 ft lbs

Did exactly this over the weekend. Outside of some contortions, it's easy-peasy.

I am now, dare I say, free of all DTCs and CELs. Amazing feeling. Thank you MUD.

 

[grinchy]

Here are the 2009 LX570 Oxygen sensor Lexus/Toyota part numbers. You want two of 89467B (front), and 89465A is right rear, 89465 is left rear.

Number	Name	Code
8946560370 / denso 234-4260 (Left rear)	SENSOR, OXYGEN	89465
8946536040 / denso 234-4169 (right rear)	SENSOR, OXYGEN NO.2	89465A
8946735110 / Denso 234-9026 - Qty 2	SENSOR, AIR FUEL RATIO	89467B

Looks like I missed @Znarf post above, but I can confirm I independently came to the same conclusion.

That Hitachi MAF is Hitachi MAF-0103

 

[grinchy]

Replaced the air/fuel (fronts) and oxygen (rear) sensors today.
I applied pb blaster a couple days ago to all four while they were hot.
I used Lisle 12390 as a target for the two pound sledge. Three of four required the persuader. The front right came loose using the 22mm combination wrench. The 12390 seemed pretty useless for the clearances with an actual breaker bar, I only have a 1/2” breaker and the couple times it would even hook up to the socket, it had no swing available. Hammer worked easy.
I bought a thread chaser, did not need it.
I replaced on hot exhaust, but by the time I got to the rear two it was cold.
I did remove a heat shield over the rear crossmember to get to the rear left O2 sensor.
The rear (oxygen sensor) use different plugs, so make sure to verify plug before you install. Don't ask me how I know.
I left my skids on, though that made the rear right a bit of a pain to tighten.

The hardest part was the front right getting it unplugged (hard) and replugged (epic hard). Around 2 hours, without skids and with a better selection of tools, could easily cut that in half.

I didn’t have any DTC, but do have 240000 miles on the truck.