2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (5 Viewers)

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Joining the club with 09 and ~140k miles. Had an oil change done 3 days ago - all looked normal. Today was 1st warm day after winter here in Texas, temp got up to 80F outside, wonder if that's related. Attaching a pic

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Joining the club with 09 and ~140k miles. Had an oil change done 3 days ago - all looked normal. Today was 1st warm day after winter here in Texas, temp got up to 80F outside, wonder if that's related. Attaching a pic

View attachment 1648048

Crazy how you didn’t even get a warning sign from the hairline crack. Makes me want to change my 120k radiator now.
Joining the club with 09 and ~140k miles. Had an oil change done 3 days ago - all looked normal. Today was 1st warm day after winter here in Texas, temp got up to 80F outside, wonder if that's related. Attaching a pic

View attachment 1648048

This scares me. No hairline crack warning signs? Makes me want to change out my 120k radiator now!
 
Crazy how you didn’t even get a warning sign from the hairline crack. Makes me want to change my 120k radiator now.


This scares me. No hairline crack warning signs? Makes me want to change out my 120k radiator now!
do it and thank yourself
 
Crazy how you didn’t even get a warning sign from the hairline crack. Makes me want to change my 120k radiator now.


This scares me. No hairline crack warning signs? Makes me want to change out my 120k radiator now!

My 08 radiator failed unexpectedly at ~95k right before I headed out for a family spring break trip last year.
 
I have 161k on mine and have sprung a leak... although in a different location from most. Mine is leaking from a tiny crack on the driver's side edge where a bolt secures the top plastic to the side plastic. Could be that the bolt had been overtightened at some point.... don't really know:

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I put a temporary fix to get me down the road until I can get my hands on a radiator... but its still leaking considerably through the bolt threads.
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The more common pain point doesn't look to far behind:
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I'm planning on replacing the water pump, thermostat, hoses, belt, tensioner, and pulley at the same time. I read that you should replace the fan clutch whenever you replace the water pump. Did anyone do this when replacing all the other things? I didn't see it mentioned in this thread.
 
I'm planning on replacing the water pump, thermostat, hoses, belt, tensioner, and pulley at the same time. I read that you should replace the fan clutch whenever you replace the water pump. Did anyone do this when replacing all the other things? I didn't see it mentioned in this thread.

Which pulley are you replacing?
 
Which pulley are you replacing?

I was planning on replacing the idler pulley while replacing the belt and tensioner.
 
I'm planning on replacing the water pump, thermostat, hoses, belt, tensioner, and pulley at the same time. I read that you should replace the fan clutch whenever you replace the water pump. Did anyone do this when replacing all the other things? I didn't see it mentioned in this thread.

We do the fan clutch fwiw. AISIN (oe manufacture) has a direct application for water pump, fan clutch and thermostat. Cheaper when it's in a blue box from us :D
 
We do the fan clutch fwiw. AISIN (oe manufacture) has a direct application for water pump, fan clutch and thermostat. Cheaper when it's in a blue box from us :D
Is this done as a preventative thing? Are these known to completely fail or is it a degradation in performance or noise? Am I going to save time by doing this now in conjunction with the rest of the things I am doing?
 
Is this done as a preventative thing? Are these known to completely fail or is it a degradation in performance or noise? Am I going to save time by doing this now in conjunction with the rest of the things I am doing?

We've had a few fail on the Canguro 200, silt and hard temps kill them off. I recommend them when doing a radiator and water pump as it's easy to get to them and they are just $122, the labor and effort to do it later will nauseate one.
 
Replying to my own post. As many people here I did contact Toyota Care team and expressed my frustration with numerous high price repairs within last few years (usual suspects: water pump, starter). Specifically told them that based on this thread alone this radiator flaw should be a recall situation. Their representative was nice enough to call the dealership where my car was being worked on (radiator replacement), but was not able to offer any assistance. She felt it was enough that they give me a loner car and 15% discount. Guessing if you've had multiple LCs - your chances of getting help is higher.

Anyhow, $860 later engine compartment looks much better with the new radiator, attaching the pic. Hoping this one will last another 100k



Joining the club with 09 and ~140k miles. Had an oil change done 3 days ago - all looked normal. Today was 1st warm day after winter here in Texas, temp got up to 80F outside, wonder if that's related. Attaching a pic

View attachment 1648048

IMG_20180308_180933.jpg
 
Joined the club that no one wants to.
‘13 with 94,000.

Put an email into ToyotaCare with my story. I let you all know why they say. Also, going my stealer on Monday to tell and ask the same. WTF
 
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Just bought a 2010 LC with 170k. Radiator and hoses look very good to me.

I don’t have any record of the Radiator being replaced. Can anyone tell from the markings on my Radiator if mine is the updated model replaced by the previous owner? Pic attached. Thanks!

10C25F97-A197-48F0-A389-A48396FBDF52.jpeg
 
Does anyone know if this is specific to the 5.7?

Was the same rad used on the international market 4.7 & 4.6? I imagine it probably would have been.
 
Anything else that should be replaced other than this part list below?

Radiator (Newer URJ200s) 16400-50384
PCV Valve 12204-38010
Lower Radiator Hose 16572-38130
Upper Radiator Hose 16571-38080
Bypass hose 16282-0S030
 

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