Copper grease anti-sieze for exhaust manifold studs ? (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

Started removing my 80's old genie headers today to fit nice new (and better IMHO) pacemaker ones now that I've already removed the old Redback exhaust from behind them to fit a new Pacemaker 'king brown' exhaust kit.

In the process of starting to undo all the manifold stud nuts I had three of the studs come out and found one place on the lower row with no stud present. I'm hoping it's a clear hole without a partly broken off stud stuck in it. Otherwise I'll be rather annoyed since I don't have a way to get a broken stud out.

Anyway, I plan on using copper grease anti-sieze for any studs I replace and since I have a full set of genuine studs, nuts and exhaust manifold gaskets I might try to get all the other studs out and just replace all of them.

I have some Loctite 243 but I'm thinking that using that for exhaust manifold studs would do more harm than good.

BTW the factory studs have some kind of torx end - anyone know off-hand what the right tool for them is?

Craig.

 

[scottryana]

Loctite 243 won't be any good on exhaust studs. Use a good antiseize. The torx are exactly that "external torx", but you can get by with a 12 point socket since you aren't torqueing them down really tight.

Started removing my 80's old genie headers today to fit nice new (and better IMHO) pacemaker ones now that I've already removed the old Redback exhaust from behind them to fit a new Pacemaker 'king brown' exhaust kit.

In the process of starting to undo all the manifold stud nuts I had three of the studs come out and found one place on the lower row with no stud present. I'm hoping it's a clear hole without a partly broken off stud stuck in it. Otherwise I'll be rather annoyed since I don't have a way to get a broken stud out.

Anyway, I plan on using copper grease anti-sieze for any studs I replace and since I have a full set of genuine studs, nuts and exhaust manifold gaskets I might try to get all the other studs out and just replace all of them.

I have some Loctite 243 but I'm thinking that using that for exhaust manifold studs would do more harm than good.

BTW the factory studs have some kind of torx end - anyone know off-hand what the right tool for them is?

Craig.

 

[gummycarbs]

I like Jet-Lube Kopr-Kote. The 1/4 pound can is a great value.

 

[Warpigg]

A good tip for exhaust studs is tighten them before you loosen them, it breaks them free (usually) without them twisting. Anti-sieze is awesome stuff on exhaust parts I won't use it on anything else personally, I've had bad experiences. I'm sure places like advance Auto sells the socket or socket set for the studs, 12 point will work the actual socket just locks in better.

 

[bigredmachine]

don't bother with the Loctite, itll just melt with the heat from the exhaust. torx size is an e10 and personally I haven't had any luck using it to remove studs, your better off using two nuts and trying to get the stud out that way. tighten both nuts to each other like jam nuts and use the lower one as the nut to loosen the stud

the copper or silver anti seize will work just fine

 

[Malleus]

A good tip for exhaust studs is tighten them before you loosen them, it breaks them free (usually) without them twisting. Anti-sieze is awesome stuff on exhaust parts I won't use it on anything else personally, I've had bad experiences. I'm sure places like advance Auto sells the socket or socket set for the studs, 12 point will work the actual socket just locks in better.

^this

 

[LINUS]

Never-Sieze is a industry standard in petro & harsh chemical refinery process equipment, for good reason.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Top tip & what we all do to new cans is to add 1tsp of WD-40 to the little cans (little is the plastic ~12oz ones to us) & we add ~2tbsp of WD-40 to the ~32oz metal cans.

Makes is far more managable to paint threads, acts like warm molasses. Will also "thread creep" into places you miss, and isn't a Crisco consistency out in 50-55* ambient temps.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I keep a jar of both flavors (silver & copper) at home, awesome stuff & makes any future job re-work in same area a breeze.

 

[NLXTACY]

Never-Sieze is a industry standard in petro & harsh chemical refinery process equipment, for good reason.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Top tip & what we all do to new cans is to add 1tsp of WD-40 to the little cans (little is the plastic ~12oz ones to us) & we add ~2tbsp of WD-40 to the ~32oz metal cans.

Makes is far more managable to paint threads, acts like warm molasses. Will also "thread creep" into places you miss, and isn't a Crisco consistency out in 50-55* ambient temps.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I keep a jar of both flavors (silver & copper) at home, awesome stuff & makes any future job re-work in same area a breeze.

^ this is what I use and only on exhaust bolts/studs.

 

[flintknapper]

^ this is what I use and only on exhaust bolts/studs.

I use a very light coat of the copper version on spark plug threads as well.

But whichever type you use, don't get it on yourself...a little goes a long way. And it doesn't just 'wipe off'.

 

[morganism]

The BMW uses brass nuts, and the tighten first, then loosen, worked easily. If there are brass nuts available, i would order them if this is ever going to come off again....

 

[BILT4ME]

Just know...... Don't use the silver on something you're screwing into aluminum. It can actually CAUSE it to gall.

Use the copper version on studs/bolts into aluminum or on exhaust work. I get my Permatex version from NAPA. For some stupid reason, O'Reilly's doesn't carry the copper version.

The silver is aluminum flake.
The copper is......well....copper flake.

 

[gummycarbs]

I find Kopr-Kote to be way less messy. It has honey-like consistency and wipes off neatly. The silver stuff gets everywhere; the Tin Man is spot-on.

 

[flintknapper]

Just know...... Don't use the silver on something you're screwing into aluminum. It can actually CAUSE it to gall.

Use the copper version on studs/bolts into aluminum or on exhaust work. I get my Permatex version from NAPA. For some stupid reason, O'Reilly's doesn't carry the copper version.

The silver is aluminum flake.
The copper is......well....copper flake.

Loctite Anti-Seize | What Type Do You Require?

 

[sunrk]

Righto ta. I have a tin of copper grease that I've been using for over 10 yrs. It's nearly run out but it's been really good.

So I'll use that on the studs.

I managed to get 9 of the 11 studs present out without real hassles. The other two can be removed later though one is right at the back of the motor near the flywheel end.

E10 socket - thanks for that. Will get one to keep in the toolkit.