Newbie support! Looking at 97 LC. (1 Viewer)

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By the way, you should definitely be on the lookout for rust. If it's anything other than a local vehicle, request pictures of the underside of the body, the frame, and the axles. In particular, the back side of the rear axle, rear suspension components, and the frame and body behind the rear axle, which are the prime rust locations. Anything more than the slightest hint of rust is going to make every little thing you do a complete PITA with seized, broken fasteners. Personally, I would care about rust way, way more than the paint, for example.

The Pacific Northwest generally has rust-free vehicles (aside from the coast), and Oregon's perpetually mediocre economy keeps prices fairly low. I've seen the best deals show up between Northern California up to just south of Portland. Once you hit Portland, everyone thinks their beater is a museum piece. Too many hipsters with tech cash to burn.
 
I wonder if wise business man would endorse the purchase of a 20 some year old vehicle, with over 200 miles, for 5000 to only go in and put another 4-10. I guess I'm wondering what this very successful guy would think of people who FZJ80s in 2017, salvage or not, would he think it's a wise decision?

Now these are cult following rigs, so none are a 'wise decision' to a man who was clearing some real $$$.
A realistic rate of depreciation with a warranty for repairs would be his pick. I can still hear him 25+yrs later.

But FWIW, he drove a fullsize Bronco from his Ford lot, and IIRC he held a 'demo' for a couple years.

He even had a funny deal for the Honda lots - you could take a Prelude as a demo, but if you didn't sell before the mandatory 5K odometer turn-in, your next demo was a base Civic.
If you took an Accord, you never had to worry about it selling by the 5K mark.
The rule even applied to his son (lot manager) -who took a yellow Prelude :confused:!!!:confused:
New lot manager was smart & always took a champagne color Accord in EX trim - 25% sold were that color. That & white were bulk of sales.

When that yellow Prelude didn't sell, his own son was in a Civic for a solid 6-8mo.
Dude wore Armani suits & stuck in a Civic - was funny & even he had to laugh.
He was firm but fair. Passed some 10-12yrs ago.
 
The rigs down this side also look pretty clean but I get that these are on the wrong coast for you. Still, a 40th anniversary for $9.5k might be worth looking at. If you are interested I can swing by and take a look at it for you.

1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 40th Aniversary Ed.
 
Looks to be repainted, seats look to be cheap only partially recovered, steering wheel in bad shape. Seat belt in drivers rear looks dirty so I would be inclined to think a cheap refurb and is overpriced based upon condition and mileage. No good pictures of interior other than seats, rear cargo area, carpets or interior of doors. There are no pictures of engine bay and the undercarriage looks to be spayed with something that has a strange color that could be covering something up.
 
Going to look at this 2004 today! Wanted to let the experts give me some input. Car fax shows Southern California ownership. My cousin drove it and it has the fifth gear shudder. The dealer claims there is nothing wrong with it. It looks clean!
2004 Toyota Land Cruiser http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/4427118
 
Haha, I'll stay out of your wallet - we already have 'the Armenian' here out West.
(dealer in the L.A. area - high prices, questionable 80's)

If one is somewhere close & you want me to scout it objectively, I'm willing to help.

Ok, Linus I’m ready for your help.
I’m open to options.
80 series to 100 series.
Her is the two I’m looking at now. If anybody is the area and wants to offer up a look at, I’ll take all the help I can get.
1997 Land cruiser

and this

Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80! Smogged and Registered!

I’m getting inpatient and want a to get this journey started.

@Linus8 any help!

I want a solid rig that I can modify, with clean interior for the family! 80 or early 100.
 
I'm in WA, but 100% if you are after a 80, I'd sooner stay 1FZ than 3FE - only because the parts for 3FE's are already slowly drying up.

That 3FE as an example looks like it smells like dog (they print the rear seat like that, real common) - and the seller doesn't show the front seats condition or talk about maint on his "V6 power" 80.

$5500 ask on that late 1FZ sounds like a solid jump-off point if you can get a CA guy to go scout it (or want to fund my flight, etc ;) ).

I'd want to see a pic of the seller's receipts for his maint, but I'd def follow up on that '97 - 280K one - even at full ask that may be a decent deal, and really any rust free 80 you get into is going to be a minimum of $4-5K no matter what records it has.
 
Great, thanks Linus!
Here is some info on maintenance

Seats are in very good condition. I think you can see in the pics. Has third row, and brush guards on front and real tail lights. Brush GuardsNot been used for many years. Third seats out for many years also.
Nicks and small scratches and fading paint on the roof. Only damage is what I showed.
Burr fields 3 years ago, radiator last summer, valve cover gasket and power steering 2 months ago.

Thoughts? @LINUS and thanks again.
 
Uuuuuuuhhhh, thaaaat's not maint.

(here's me hoping you copy/pasted a quote from the seller)

Maint I want to know:

-Headgasket been replaced?
(they tend to pop when you take them from warm climates like CA, to well, anywhere cold - that's a trend as HG seem to go, anecdotally & IMO)

-Has the front axle ever had a service?
If so, what miles were each (near due for it's 3rd ATM)

-When were the last plugs, wires, cap & rotor? Fan clutch?

-Trans fluid ever seen a bit of changing, or is it 20yrs old

-Diff fluid last service?

-Last time coolant changed, thermostat too?

-Brakes last service miles?

-How's the tire tread?
(so you can get home safe, not buy tires before you drive home)

-What is the title status? (Clean, rebuilt, salvage)

-Body been repainted anywhere?

-What states has it lived in?

-How many owners previous?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

That's the sort of questions I ask, then I flat slide under myself with a flashlight & start tracking things like crank seals, dents to the underside, ball joint play, driveshaft overall condition, mystery leaks of any fluids like the brakes, etc.

Engine bay: check damn near everything - belt condition & fan clutch resistance to 'free spin' when cold, coolant condition/color, fluid levels in power steer & brake resivoirs, look for leaks in the main air tube, & esp my pet peeve--- chopped wires in the engine harness.

Then you check all the door jambs for overspray, working into the interior looking & smelling for discolorations or odor showing the doors all seal well, the sunroof drains are all clear, etc.

I'm interested in all this, the stuff below the ~~~~~~~~~ is the stuff I check in person despite any answer a seller states.

After I see an 80 isn't going to be killing me or me destroying any portion of it - then I go for a test drive that basically amounts to some "drive it like you stole it" -moves like a hard accel test, a panic 50-0 test, and a washboard road looking for rattles that indicate bushing wear, etc, etc, etc.

The way my test goes, whenever we've shopped cars for my BIL, he knows not to bring my nephew or neice (when they were young), because I am really testing that car on a backroad.

After the "stunt drive" -then I operate every last function on the dash - every power window, the wipers at all speeds FR & RR, the whole climate control panel, the cruise, the CDL / transfer case, ----everything.

Check the keys in all the tumblers - make sure those work. ESPECIALLY FOR LX450's (internal cut keys are $$$ here).

I think we have a "buying an 80" checklist around here, just hitting some high points for you.

This is the kind of stuff I do when I scout any 80, but applies in general to any used car you buy.

HTH.
 

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