72 FJ40 - Pierre (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Guster
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thought the passenger bench seat was replaced at one point but I think this might be the original seat. Build date is 9/71 and it looks like the switch to the split top passenger bench took place in 9/71.
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- #24
Not much paint left on the tailgate and bed after scrubbing and treating with phosphoric acid. Maybe not the best method but seems to be working okay.
The floor under the gas tank looks great, almost like new. The gas tank did not look great (rust on outside and a little inside) so I'll likely replace.
The floor under the gas tank looks great, almost like new. The gas tank did not look great (rust on outside and a little inside) so I'll likely replace.
- Thread starter
- #25
Took my gas tank to a radiator shop to be cleaned/sealed. This is what came back, not what I was expecting, lol, holy crap. I don't know what a normal tank sealing job should look like but pretty sure it's not this. The "paint job" on the outside is just as bad. That dark blue section in the back is where it just looks like whatever they put in the tank settled into a thick layer. I'm just going to order a new tank and see if the radiator shop will give me a refund.
For the sake of the truck PLEASE repaint. 
The truck
The truck
Last edited:
The truck
All things considered a new tank isn't that expensive and cheap insurance against future problems. Probably not much more than the radiator shop charge.
great score, that fj is in amazing shape for its age
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
What a great looking cruiser!
Original toyota screw driver as well
Original toyota screw driver as well
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks! After cleaning the inside it shows how much paint has worn off on the drivers side floor and the rear of the tub but really no rust which is great. I will end up painting the interior floors but not the outside for now.
Also, the radiator shop agreed that something went wrong with their sealing process. They offered to try again or give me a refund with them keeping the tank, I took the refund.
- Thread starter
- #34
Started pulling off some mounting pieces to cleanup and get some rust converter on any surface rust. Found this under the license plate, kinda cool, super brittle.
The bolts for the bottom spare tire mount all broke but just a bit of surface rust under the mount.
The bolts for the bottom spare tire mount all broke but just a bit of surface rust under the mount.
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- #35
Finally have my 40 out of storage after moving and getting some space opened up in my garage. Going to try and fix some bubbling paint on the firewall from brake fluid and get the bare metal painted on the floors and bed without going too far down the rabbit hole. Other plans include replacing all fluids, new brake master, rebuild clutch master and slave, rebuild knuckles and wheel cylinders. With the hood, someone had painted over 3/4 of it for some reason. Paint thinner and a scotch-brite pad works ok for removal, if anyone has suggestions on a process that might work better please let me know.
- Thread starter
- #36
The paint thinner and scotch-brite cleanup of the hood is working well.
I've cleaned up the brake booster and now need to protect it. I was thinking about clear coat but that might be too shiny. After reading through the preserving patina thread it looks Penetrol might be good option. Has anyone used Penetrol on bare metal in the engine compartment and how has it held up?
I've cleaned up the brake booster and now need to protect it. I was thinking about clear coat but that might be too shiny. After reading through the preserving patina thread it looks Penetrol might be good option. Has anyone used Penetrol on bare metal in the engine compartment and how has it held up?
- Thread starter
- #39
Here is what I used for epoxy primer, filler primer and topcoat. Not the cheapest way to go but no local paint shop so this is what I went with, hopefully it holds up. The paint scratch paint is a single stage mix for a 76 FJ40, Freeborn Red.
