Electrical problem need help (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Threads
19
Messages
73
Location
charleston,SC
hi every one I will start with the symptoms.

Replaced start battery

Aftermarket alarm goes off

I contact shop to replace it. No fob no button to reset no directions online.

Runs battery dead over night.

Jump cruiser to drop of at shop.

Battery seems to not be charging had to jump at shop. Scan gauge and factory gauge say there is 13.7volts from alternator.

Shop charges battery's tests them says all is well cruiser won't start. Confirms ignition wires are correct. They say?

Where do I start? Fuse able link? I have to pick it up tomorrow
 
I would start at fusible link. Then grounds.
 
Cruiser has been running great no problems. It just started after the alarm problem. It's a 97 with dual battery's and a IBS system. Thanks for the advice!!
 
If you have no FOB....

Rip out alarm system.

I had to remove the original factory RS3000 system from my truck because it decided to go wonky one night when I stopped to pick up dinner for the family. Fortunately, I had enough tools in the truck to disable and unhook the battery do clear the alarm and reset to get home. I spent the next 4 hours ripping it out by the roots.
 
Good advice the offending unit is out. Unfortunately some one else got there first. Now I cannot start the cruiser. There is some kind off demobilizer going on. To be honest my guess is that something happened when the cruiser was jump started. So far no blown fuses. I have a working alternator. But the battery's won't charge. And now no start. With charged battery's
 
The alarm cutout works by interrupting the current flow to the ignition switch. Usually, the power lead(s) is(are) cut and the alarm spliced in. If the alarm was removed, this has to be repaired or the ignition switch won't. Switch.

The battery(s) is(are) failing because there's a current drain somewhere. If the alternator works, the battery's charging. That's part of the definition of a working alternator.
 
@Malleus is correct, they usually cut power to start, or ignition, and run that through a relay. If you take out said relay, you have to remake the connection it interrupted. Mine had a simple black plastic relay, the usual 5 pin relay.
Pictures of your current wiring might help, especially where the alarm system was.
 
The alarm I understand as well as the charging. What I don't get is why after 40min off driving with the scan gauge showing 14v the two battery's where still flat. And after a nights charge and test. The cruiser won't start. There could be multiple things going on I.e. The shop hocked up the alarm and missed something and there is a blown fuse some where. What I'm looking for is punch points to make a good survey off what's going on.
 
If your battery(ies) are drained beyond a certain point, the alternator won't be able to recharge them. You'll have to use a dedicated charger. Then you have to start at the battery and trace the circuits, one at a time, with the engine off, and with it on. There are no shortcuts to electrical troubleshooting. Since (often) you can't see what's broken, you have to chase the current path until you find a break.

FWIW, a scan gauge is nice to have, but it's not a substitute for a multimeter.
 
If your battery(ies) are drained beyond a certain point, the alternator won't be able to recharge them. You'll have to use a dedicated charger. Then you have to start at the battery and trace the circuits, one at a time, with the engine off, and with it on. There are no shortcuts to electrical troubleshooting. Since (often) you can't see what's broken, you have to chase the current path until you find a break.

FWIW, a scan gauge is nice to have, but it's not a substitute for a multimeter.


What are common places for a battery drain? i have a brand new starter battery and it keeps depleting. alternator is fine.
 
The control unit for light that surrounds the ignition switch is one failure that can cause battery drain. The device is located in the passenger kick panel and can be eliminated without losing functionality of other systems.
 
What are common places for a battery drain? i have a brand new starter battery and it keeps depleting. alternator is fine.
In a stock truck, none. If you've added (or been gifted by the PO) accessories, them.
 
Get a multimeter. Measure the battery voltage with the vehicle off and doors closed. It should be around 12.7V.

Turn the ignition on but don't start it. The battery should show about 11.7V.

Try to start the engine. The voltage at the battery should drop significantly, but no lower than 9V.

Seeing 14V with the engine running doesn't mean that the battery is charged, only that it's being charged. You should see the voltage drop to 13.5V (I think) once the battery is fully charged.

Without voltage numbers, I'm going to guess that you have the typical problem of not being able to actuate the starter solenoid. I would remove, clean (brass brush and De-Oxit) the terminals and fusible link ends, then reinstall and tighten. If that didn't fix it, I'd replace the starter solenoid (or just the entire starter).
 
The control unit for light that surrounds the ignition switch is one failure that can cause battery drain. The device is located in the passenger kick panel and can be eliminated without losing functionality of other systems.
This plus 1, there has been more than one thread written about this fault, and it WILL DRAIN your battery completely.

Here's a good link to how to fix that problem.
Ignition dimming relay
 
Last edited:
FWIW, Mr. T even made a how-to:
 

Attachments

  • Basic digital voltmeter operation (T-QTG-617A-D).pdf
    5.1 MB · Views: 87
Thanks guys for all the help. It ended up being a bad connection at the battery hiding under son heat shrink. It must have been dislodged when I replaced the battery.

Is the key area supposed to glow? And the window switches mine have never worked if that is the case.

Thanks again for all the help!!
 
The ring around the ignition is supposed to glow for like 20 seconds after the driver door is closed.

The window switches may or may not have a lighted button, but not ALL buttons. I replaced mine with a SwitchDoctor version and only the very front button illuminates and that's not very bright.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom