Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)

[thecrazygreek]

Brazing is great for that. I have used it that way a couple times on some hard top corners. I think this is a totally under utilized option. I cleaned up the rust first, then brazed in some pitting, then filed it down.

 

[Gusb]

New toy from eBay. Classic Meco Aviator torch with old original tip (#3). Been searching for one of these and tips for a while. Now searching for Meco tips - AV-00, AV-0 and AV-1, no longer made and hard to find. GOSS made a few after-market versions for a while. TM made a tip "adapter" for a while, now discontinued. Body seems in pretty good shape so half way there.

 

[Gusb]

Two more old small Victor torches for the collection, both J27s. One, new in the box, with paper label. The other older, with enameled riveted label, serial number and knurled knobs. Recognize those plated (nickel?) tips (Victor, marked T22 - J size) with the weird heat sinks? Never seen these tips before. The old "new with box" J-size/1260 cutting attachment has a normal black O-ring setup with 4 holes. The plated tips have 2 hole chamber with light gray O-rings. Wondering if they might be for a different fuel (not acetylene)?

 

[Gusb]

Just bought an old/new Snap-On long pick body hammer with an original handle. Needs a little tune up.

 

[Gusb]

Pick hammer tuned up. Had to remove the old/dried-out material in the loose head, the old "soak-the-head" in linseed oil didn't cut it. Snap-on has the replacement handle backordered on this model. Made a new maple main wedge and used the two orignal steel. Nice and tight for now and still seems well balanced, albeit a little shorter.

 

[Gusb]

deja vu

Rouging the old EP for another hit.

 

[Gusb]

For some reason, I never realized one needs a special gun for 2-part seam sealer. Got the cheaper paint store brand instead of the 3M gun. Also store brand sealer. More paint deja vu under the old plastic shade tree.

 

[Gusb]

Not perfect but hopefully headed in the other direction. Will try touching up spots as I go along. Spent time to make a multi-piece, weatherstrip-bonded neoprene gasket for the tranny cover.

 

[Gusb]

finally a black bumper

 

[Gusb]

Going to try to use this stuff to replace the original sound proofing stuff on the floor. Seems like the same thickness and material. Might try a heat gun, etc. and maybe a crude wooden form to press it down? Anyone have pictures of an original 78 floor?

 

[Vae Victus]

Really nice work. Like that the tranny hump has the sound proofing still on it.

 

[Gusb]

Really nice work. Like that the tranny hump has the sound proofing still on it.

Thanks V V, trying to keep anything that doesn't need to come off (for repairs) original. Reproducing the original patterns for the replacement sound proofing is a bit of a challenge. This Evercoat stuff seems a good match though, thickness and the way it acts. Does not cut easily with a utility knife but big scissors work well. Heat gun seems to work. Don't try to use a hole punch, it breaks in long cracks.

 

[Vae Victus]

Nice to see that material. Didn't know about it. Will be getting some of that.

 

[Cbled56]

P

Sarge - thanks a lot for postings - I actually thought about doing that early on and got off track probably trying to avoid a trip to the hardware store for screws . You/Kiwi got me back on track. I've now got 4 main small welded plates underneath with nuts and everything else taps into the frame. Much easier to take everything apart too, compared to my over-thought welded stud idea.

Jim - I've always liked those chatterproof type countersinks with the hole, but I've only got 1 old, small guy and it's 100*. So I'm using my old (dull) 82s, hand-held - would go a little easier on a Bridgeport

View attachment 1053156 View attachment 1053157 View attachment 1053158

Thanks V V, trying to keep anything that doesn't need to come off (for repairs) original. Reproducing the original patterns for the replacement sound proofing is a bit of a challenge. This Evercoat stuff seems a good match though, thickness and the way it acts. Does not cut easily with a utility knife but big scissors work well. Heat gun seems to work. Don't try to use a hole punch, it breaks in long cracks.

View attachment 1718267

finally

 

[Cbled56]

I finally got done reading the whole thread. Thank you for taking the time to take pictures and answer questions. I saved all the pics as reference material and read every word carefully, sometimes 3 or 4 times until I fully understood as I am new to the FJ40. Do you have any advice for folks who don't have welding experience? We're there any books that you read which helped? Can not wait to see more of your work. Thanks again!!

 

[Pierps]

Looking really good, @Gusb!! Your patience and attention to detail are inspiring!

 

[Gusb]

Thanks for the kind words (cbled56/pierps). Sorry for the late reply - out of town for work. Now back on the road for California smog but still lots of outside body work to finish along with work on the hardtop.

cbled56 - I'm not a welder, more of a grinder. I'd try to find a hands-on class (Junior college, etc.). I never found a class so I picked up whatever books I could, did some YouTube and even got a few gas welding lessions from a buddy.

 

[tstepp920]

Going to try to use this stuff to replace the original sound proofing stuff on the floor. Seems like the same thickness and material. Might try a heat gun, etc. and maybe a crude wooden form to press it down? Anyone have pictures of an original 78 floor?

View attachment 1717085

went to the Evercoat site. Which product did you use?

 

[Gusb]

went to the Evercoat site. Which product did you use?

These (part #100117) are the largest I think. Also thicker than the smaller ones.

 

[Obtuse2]

would that work as a cushion under the gas tank?