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Solar on the hood.

If you are driving and it's hot, well, the alternator is providing all you need anyway.

If you are parked, the engine's not producing heat other than the first little while as it cools down - but then the alternator was running up to that point and fridge is likely fully cooled down, so all good.

I don't see an issue from a heat perspective. Solar panels get stinking hot when sitting under full sun (they are dark and absorb a lot of that IR as heat), sure they are more efficient when cool, but that's the case when the sky is overcast and you need every watt you can extract in that situation anyway (win/win)

cheers,
george.
 
Screw it! I'll be the guinnea pig. Y hood already looks like sh!t so it will fit my theme of looking "less sh!tty"!
 
Preliminary (10 minutes) research tells me I have about 28"w x 32"d to install a panel. More if I eliminate the washer nozzles and go to wiper mounted nozzles.

A 50w flex panel will fit in this are but a 100w flex panel is about 40-41". Need to do more research...
 
Not trying to hijack, BUT can i mount a 100amp breaker close to the inverotr about 11 ft from battery, as OPPOSED to mounting breaker close to battery i dont have room underhood to fit another 100am breake.r
 
No-The breaker or fuse is there to protect the wire run from the source (battery) to the load (inverter). So if you put the breaker on the wire at the wrong end, that entire wire run is at risk and could potentially burn down your truck.

If you use a MRBF right at the battery, it takes up very little room, and the entire wire run will be protected.
 
No-The breaker or fuse is there to protect the wire run from the source (battery) to the load (inverter). So if you put the breaker on the wire at the wrong end, that entire wire run is at risk and could potentially burn down your truck.

If you use a MRBF right at the battery, it takes up very little room, and the entire wire run will be protected.
I KNEW that I was kinda hoping someone could co sign a bad idea for me, squeezing this in is doable. thanks Brother
 
Liking the folding concept for storage and transport, needing 100w-ish total capacity... I'm willing to hinge/join two smaller panels together... is there a "hot deal" out there?
 
Do you know of a "kit" or the components for a simple kit? Folding would be best.

No crazy cheap deal out there but a folding panel is not expensive either. The Renogy kit is still great. They are using smaller and more efficient panels now, so a good kit got better (and a bit more $) It's a bit more expensive than DIY, but it comes with a great case. Just about any two 50 or 60 watt panels hinged together would make a great set up.

I like the idea of getting away from the cheapy charge controllers that come in the kits. If you read through this thread, I can recommend the Morningstar Controllers, and now the Victron Controllers since it's fun to play with your dongle.

Looks like the Renogy original folder is still available on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Monocrystalline-Foldable-Suitcase/dp/B00LXG4AXS?th=1
 
Drew, first of all, thanks to you and all who contributed on this post. I have a question on extending the wiring from the Grape Solar panel.

Do I just remove the two connectors at the end of this wiring harness and then run 6 or 10 gauge to my Smart Solar controller? If so, what did you guys use to connect to the wiring? (Solder, a butt connector, etc.)

Any pics anyone might have would be awesome.

IMG_7427.JPG


My controller will be in the right rear 1/4 and runs up to the Aux battery through 0/1 wire that is fused at the + terminal. I know the temp compensation may be off, but from what I read here, that should be fine for the 3-5 day long trips where I will depend on solar for my fridge.

IMG_7504.JPG

Still need to get some power pole or some other kind of quick disconnects to get everything done wiring wise.
 
At first, i kept those wires and connectors in place, so i purchased two more and made short wires that ran to my charge controller. Then, i switched and ran all new wire and anderson ends for plugs.

That charge controller sure looks far away from your battery up front? Are you concerned about voltage drop?
 
At first, i kept those wires and connectors in place, so i purchased two more and made short wires that ran to my charge controller. Then, i switched and ran all new wire and anderson ends for plugs.
That charge controller sure looks far away from your battery up front? Are you concerned about voltage drop?

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll do anderson plugs as well, but I might only add them at the end of the extension and use a butt connector at the panel. Not too worried about voltage drop with a 20 ft. run 1/0 wire. Should be minimal.
 
Drew, first of all, thanks to you and all who contributed on this post. I have a question on extending the wiring from the Grape Solar panel.

Do I just remove the two connectors at the end of this wiring harness and then run 6 or 10 gauge to my Smart Solar controller? If so, what did you guys use to connect to the wiring? (Solder, a butt connector, etc.)

Any pics anyone might have would be awesome.

View attachment 1639610


I missed your question before. I used these to attach to the panel connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MS8AKRU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_64?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Mainly because some panels void the warranty if you change the wires of the panel.

You could do the same thing just by buying a short solar extension wire, cut it in half and that would give you also the ends you need.

I do like the Anderson connectors. And for wiring out to the panels, I just use 10ga landscape wire. It's cheap, UV and weather resistant, and cheap! Regarding the smaller power poles (the 15/30/45 version) I have found that the contacts need to be replaced every few years if you leave them outside in the weather. Fortunately, they are super cheap and it's a 5 minute task every few years.

As a test, I've left the panel on top of my 80 for almost a year now. The landscaping wire has held up well and absolutely no problems leaving it hooked up full time.
 
Thanks Drew! Yeah, I've purchased a couple extension cords for the panel, but everything solar is on hold until after Crusie Moab. I drive around all day out there, so solar is not really needed. I do want to get it set up for camping this summer, where the Cruiser sits for a few days at a time.
 
So I scrapped the idea of a flexible panel for the hood. Purchased a Renogy 160 watt panel for the roof to replace the old Siemens 65 watt panel.

Anybody running a charge controller with BlueTooth to monitor input/output. Just saw them when bouncing around on Amazon. I haven’t had any problems with my Morningstar Sun Saver. Just was curious...
 
Anybody running a charge controller with BlueTooth to monitor input/output. Just saw them when bouncing around on Amazon. I haven’t had any problems with my Morningstar Sun Saver. Just was curious...

There's a whole thread on it:

Awesome new MPPT controller with bluetooth control for $99

It's an awesome device-I was messing around with it all last week in Utah. And, it's an extremely efficient controller.
 
There's a whole thread on it:

Awesome new MPPT controller with bluetooth control for $99

It's an awesome device-I was messing around with it all last week in Utah. And, it's an extremely efficient controller.

Thanks Drew!

Another question: Is there an advantage to going to an AGM over a lead acid battery? I run two group 27 Interstate Batteries. One conventional/one marine. Is it worth the upgrade to AGM? What are the advantages, if any?

I’ve also seen guys running group 31 batteries with little modification. Worth it?
 
No and no.

Flooded lead acid is the cost effective choice with no clear advantage of AGM unless you want to mount on it's side. AGMs will work fine though, it's just they cost twice as much. In the solar world, they say about AGMs "Cost twice as much, last half as long"

Group 27s fit, store plenty of juice and I would not bother modifying anything.
 

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