If putting on lots of miles car camping (overlanding) is you plan then there is no need to consider RCV shafts. I would go with the best know shafts for longevity and thats the OEM units. And then move on.
So upgraded birfs..... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scottryana
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We've all been talking about axle strength & longevity. But what about the CV joint itself? Is there any data or examples of the RCV or any other brand holding up better or worse than OEM?
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- Thread starter
- #63
Holding up in what way? Yes there is plenty of examples and data (The chart was already posted along with a link to the test) that they hold up better under significantly more load because they are stronger. There is incidental data that they wear faster because they are heat treated to be softer. Not really sure how much more clear to make it.
You will never be able to buy an RCP axle shaft because they don't exist. RCV axle shafts stand up to higher shock loads than OEM or equivalent shafts/birfields because they are more elastic and, therefor, "softer" as mentioned earlier. This is why they are "stronger" but wear faster.
They are a high quality product made in Indiana, USA. You will be better served by a set of OEM type axle shafts based on how you say you intend to use your 80.
DirtScaresMe
Trouble Maker
Do the marlin crawler seals really hurt the oem inner axles or do they just fail quicker?
ewillis
SILVER Star
There's just no added benefit to using them when OEM are available at any dealership for like $8.
But they are EcoSeals. They must be good if "Eco" is used in the name. Heck, the label is even GREEN!
ewillis
SILVER Star
But they're not EXTREME-Eco, so pass!But they are EcoSeals. They must be good if "Eco" is used in the name. Heck, the label is even GREEN!
BadReligion
SILVER Star
But they are EcoSeals. They must be good if "Eco" is used in the name. Heck, the label is even GREEN!
Off topic but reminds me of the "PZEV" label with a green leaf on most Subarus. Looked up what that meant and it stands for "partial zero emissions vehicle." What a joke! Laugh every time I see one. Guess that makes my 80 a complete emissions vehicle.
Back on topic.... For $785, a set of RCV birfs/axles will get you at least 50k mi. That seems to be an average interval for a front axle service so if you wheel hard and run big tires, just consider these a wear/tear item that is replaced with every front axle service. Well worth it for the piece of mind. Front axle service was not fun in my well lit and warm garage but would be 10x worse 1/2 way up Thompson hill on Dusy (even if all you have to do is change out a single birf).
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Nitro’s are also CrMo, but designed to last longer. Harder than RCV, but still much stronger than OEM.
Made in Korea! I broke a rear Nitro and it had a couple pockets of rust inside the meat. When I pressed the guy on the phone to tell me where their "assembled in USA" shafts were made, he blurted out "Korea in the same factory as Dana has all of theirs made"! Enough said!
Sorry to muddy up your thread. Missed the chart & link. My concerns are probably overkill about the stresses on a heavily armored overland built 80 pulling an offroad trailer. Glad you started this thread & appreciate all advice given.
Thanks for the correction (I edited it, to avoid confusion) Also thanks for the clarification! Yeah, I think I beat this dead horse enough. If the OEM doesn't work out strength wise, I can always upgrade and live with the shorter life expectancy.
When I bought my '97 2.5 years ago with 230k on the odometer the original birfields were clicking noticeably. Upon the recommendation of Torfab, I replaced them with Nitro's OEM replacement birfs. It's my understanding that these are harder than the chromoly birfs, so they should last longer, but are not quite as strong. I installed the new Nitro birfields on the original axles and have been running them without issue over the past 20k miles.
I recall paying $450 for the pair of Nitro OEM replacement birfs, and they came with ABS rings already installed. I also remember Adam at Torfab saying it would be fine to run 35s with the new birfs, but I've stayed with 33s.
I held onto the old birfields as trail spairs, but haven't needed them.
I recall paying $450 for the pair of Nitro OEM replacement birfs, and they came with ABS rings already installed. I also remember Adam at Torfab saying it would be fine to run 35s with the new birfs, but I've stayed with 33s.
I held onto the old birfields as trail spairs, but haven't needed them.
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The nitro front chromo set is made in USA.
fj55-100
SILVER Star
Just found this thread , I am fulltime 2uz platform in a 55 been on the road since 2000 , even though not a 80 series have real world exp with birfield wear . i just hit 200k on my assy on monday , in that time i have had to replace birfields mutiple times due to wear on the inner bell causing clicking and eventually breakage . my choice has always been longfields , i have even had a set of marfields ,and a set of smurfields , and even a junky TG set , i seem to get about 25 to 30 k before the noise starts , and they all look the same heavy bell wear . i agree fully with scottryana . i have a few longs wore out laying around still would take pics but shattered my camera last week . if someone wants so send one out for post testing research . you are welcome to them . my next set will be rcv
Minor detail, but they are manufactured in Rockford, Illinois. Hence the name, Rockford Constant Velocity. Much smaller facility than you would expect in person, but an amazing company to deal with. There is no higher strength IMHO and they are overkill for most, but they are soft.
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I agree that OEM is an excellent option, and I use OEM for virtually everything on my Cruiser, but the oem birfs are $$$. The Nitro OEM replacements are less than half the cost. I don't know for certain, but assume they were made overseas. Either way, I could burn through two sets of Nitros and still come out ahead. That's why I went with them.
So, My experience.
I blew a birf on some light wheeling, totally my fault; locked and at full steering lock.
I researched and fretted over OEM, RCV, TG, Terrain tamer, and settled on RCV 30-30-30.
Reason being; they were marginally more expensive than a single OEM birf, and from RCV:
"Tests prove Ultimate CV Axles to be twice as strong as OEM shafts, and they're just as tough at a straight angle as they are at extreme angles"
the extreme angle is what got be broken, so this seemed good!
and
"No Questions Asked" limited lifetime warranty" So if they are worn or break i assume they replace? a hassle, but a one time investment.
Mine is a mostly overland rig, SC'd and running 35's. but I want to wheel it without worry.
and Im using Lubriplate Syn-3001 (5%moly). A synthetic high moly was recommended by RCV, and this seemed to fit the bill without breaking the bank.
I blew a birf on some light wheeling, totally my fault; locked and at full steering lock.
I researched and fretted over OEM, RCV, TG, Terrain tamer, and settled on RCV 30-30-30.
Reason being; they were marginally more expensive than a single OEM birf, and from RCV:
"Tests prove Ultimate CV Axles to be twice as strong as OEM shafts, and they're just as tough at a straight angle as they are at extreme angles"
the extreme angle is what got be broken, so this seemed good!
and
"No Questions Asked" limited lifetime warranty" So if they are worn or break i assume they replace? a hassle, but a one time investment.
Mine is a mostly overland rig, SC'd and running 35's. but I want to wheel it without worry.
and Im using Lubriplate Syn-3001 (5%moly). A synthetic high moly was recommended by RCV, and this seemed to fit the bill without breaking the bank.
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The stock shaft doesn't significantly "neck down" both ends are about the same size. Spline count differs, size is about the same. Even if it were weaker in the outer end, which end would you prefer to break? With an outer break, can slide the axle out and replace, inner, would need to remove the diff. With an "ultimate" axle setup, more likely to break the diff, if something is going to break, I would prefer an axle/birf, leaves more options and easier to trail repair.
For a touring/camping type rig, what are you trying to fix? For your intended use, when have stock type axles ever been a problem? We have done lots of dumb stuff, often, other than a couple of old, clicker birfs, have gotten away with it. Note the cargo in the trailer, rocks, heavy ones, as far as I know, those axles/birfs came from the factory, in that rig, about 200K mi ago.
Is that ol' bacon sides? @richardlillard1The stock shaft doesn't significantly "neck down" both ends are about the same size. Spline count differs, size is about the same. Even if it were weaker in the outer end, which end would you prefer to break? With an outer break, can slide the axle out and replace, inner, would need to remove the diff. With an "ultimate" axle setup, more likely to break the diff, if something is going to break, I would prefer an axle/birf, leaves more options and easier to trail repair.
For a touring/camping type rig, what are you trying to fix? For your intended use, when have stock type axles ever been a problem? We have done lots of dumb stuff, often, other than a couple of old, clicker birfs, have gotten away with it. Note the cargo in the trailer, rocks, heavy ones, as far as I know, those axles/birfs came from the factory, in that rig, about 200K mi ago.
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