Axle Replacement Questions (1 Viewer)

[brizzle]

I have decided to replace my front axles. Mine are throwing grease and look like they have been for a while. They aren't making any noise and while I could probably reboot and get by I am under the impression that biting the bullet is the best route and will get me the next 200k. Opinions welcome but axles, flanges, and cone washers are on the way.

The FSM also says replace the flange nuts and grease cap. Which I did not order.

I have a fish scale and a 54mm socket on the way.

Am I missing anything?

Should I go ahead and replace the bearings while I am in there?

Thanks for your help and advice.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

How many miles on your truck now and when were the hubs last changed/greased?

 

[brizzle]

180K miles on the truck got it at about 165K and it had a great Toyota service history with all periodic maintenance oil change, 15K services, 90K service etc. Not sure when it would have been done if you took it Toyota every oil change and maintenance but I have not had the hubs off since I bought it.

 

[FxFormat]

Our bearings are incredibly robust, i'd check for play with the wheel on, and if it's nice and tight and not making any odd noises, just repack with new grease and call it a day. If you've never taken off the cone washers from the hub flange, get ready to throw some money into the swear jar. LOL i had enough money in mine to buy another truck once i got them all off, but once off, just give it a dab of grease so come out easier in the future.

I don't see a reason in replacing the flange nuts, or grease cap. As for axles, if they are OEM and haven't click click, i'd save some money and reboot it. Very messy job but you'll save a lot of money by just getting the OEM reboot kit, comes with everything.

 

[abuck99]

Inspect and prob replace claw washer(thrust washer).

You’ll want new adjusting nut locking washers, maybe new lock washers if theyre fubarred, flange gaskets, and new snap rings-(minimal gap is crucial). The oil seal on the back side of the knuckle should be replaced with new CVs. Diff seals should be replaced.

Dont toss the old axles- keep them or reboot and sell them.

 

[brizzle]

Inspect and prob replace claw washer(thrust washer).

You’ll want new adjusting nut locking washers, maybe new lock washers if theyre fubarred, flange gaskets, and new snap rings-(minimal gap is crucial). The oil seal on the back side of the knuckle should be replaced with new CVs. Diff seals should be replaced.

Dont toss the old axles- keep them or reboot and sell them.

Thanks! Snap rings and claw washers are in the cart.

If I am not mistaken it looks like the axle assemblies come with seals for both ends.

For the snap rings, when you say minimal gap should I be doing something in particular?

That was my thought, throw the old axles in a box and reboot on a rainy day to have some spares or possibly sell.

 

[abuck99]

The dust seal is on the outer axle, but there is an oil seal that is pressed into the backside of the knuckle. The lip of the seal gets loose, the retention spring falls out( hard to get it to stay in once that happens), and it won't seal perfectly to keep water & debris out. Not a critical thing but since you'll have access to the back of the knuckle, replacing it is quick & easy. You can asses when you get the knuckle off. And then you can clean and re-grease the spindle bearings.

The oil seal part number I had on file superseded to 90316-72001. See reference 43211V,L in the picture

Part Number: 9031672001 (90316A0001)
OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER LEFT); OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER RIGHT); OIL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE LEFT); OIL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE RIGHT).

Interchangeable with 90316A0001

 

[brizzle]

The dust seal is on the outer axle, but there is an oil seal that is pressed into the backside of the knuckle. The lip of the seal gets loose, the retention spring falls out( hard to get it to stay in once that happens), and it won't seal perfectly to keep water & debris out. Not a critical thing but since you'll have access to the back of the knuckle, replacing it is quick & easy. You can asses when you get the knuckle off. And then you can clean and re-grease the spindle bearings.

The oil seal part number I had on file superseded to 90316-72001. See reference 43211V,L in the picture

Part Number: 9031672001 (90316A0001)
OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER LEFT); OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER RIGHT); OIL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE LEFT); OIL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE RIGHT).

Interchangeable with 90316A0001


View attachment 1639002

ah got it, thanks!

 

[gatormark91]

You don't need to touch the bearings, drive flange, etc. to replace axles. Pop the grease cap, remove the clip, undo the sway bar, move the caliper out of the way, pop the upper ball joint, remove the axle. Only reason to do the bearings is if they need to be done, or you want to. They aren't a required part of axle swap.

 

[gatormark91]

You don't need to touch the bearings, drive flange, etc. to replace axles. Pop the grease cap, remove the clip, undo the sway bar, move the caliper out of the way, pop the upper ball joint, remove the axle. Only reason to do the bearings is if they need to be done, or you want to. They aren't a required part of axle swap.

With that said, you probably won't go wrong replacing the drive flanges at the same time as the new axle, since you'd be putting the new axle splines on older, possibly worn flange splines. Both new will get the best result.

 

[abuck99]

You don't need to touch the bearings, drive flange, etc. to replace axles. Pop the grease cap, remove the clip, undo the sway bar, move the caliper out of the way, pop the upper ball joint, remove the axle. Only reason to do the bearings is if they need to be done, or you want to. Theyaren't a required part of axle swap.

With that said, you probably won't go wrong replacing the drive flanges at the same time as the new axle, since you'd be putting the new axle splines on older, possibly worn flange splines. Both new will get the best result.

I think your install technique is great as trailside axle swap or if your a mechanic paid on flat rate trying to beat the clock but this misses some good PM opportunities on a high mile truck.

At 180k miles its assured the flange splines are worn, and related flange hardware as well, preload on the bearings will be loose, snap ring gap too wide all contributing factors to driveline slop(backlash) spline wear, etc.

If going to the expense of installing new Toyota axles, spending the extra $125+\- for adding new flanges and related hardware will pay off over the long term.

Install technique: Assuming the OP is doing this DIY? I’ve done it both ways and dont think its that much extra time/effort to follow FSM process and completely remove the knuckle to remove and install the CV. The difference in time is maybe an extra 30 min to remove the caliper and abs brackets to pull the knuckle off but it makes removing and installing the axle much easier, in fact you might gain back some time here. The open access through the wheel well makes working on everything (diff seals, axle etc) easy. My .02

 

[gatormark91]

I think your install technique is great as trailside axle swap or if your a mechanic paid on flat rate trying to beat the clock but this misses some good PM opportunities on a high mile truck.

At 180k miles its assured the flange splines are worn, and related flange hardware as well, preload on the bearings will be loose, snap ring gap too wide all contributing factors to driveline slop(backlash) spline wear, etc.

If going to the expense of installing new Toyota axles, spending the extra $125+\- for adding new flanges and related hardware will pay off over the long term.

Install technique: Assuming the OP is doing this DIY? I’ve done it both ways and dont think its that much extra time/effort to follow FSM process and completely remove the knuckle to remove and install the CV. The difference in time is maybe an extra 30 min to remove the caliper and abs brackets to pull the knuckle off but it makes removing and installing the axle much easier, in fact you might gain back some time here. The open access through the wheel well makes working on everything (diff seals, axle etc) easy. My .02

I replaced everything on mine - pads, rotors, bearings, flanges, seals, axles. Soup-to-nuts. I wanted to put my hands on everything, to know it was done and done right, and wouldn't fail on me on the trail.

Just noting options, though, since not everyone has a budget to do that thorough a job all at once. Bearings, flanges, cone nuts, seals, etc. will add at least $350 in parts to the job. To do the hub bits, you don't have to remove the axle, and to do the axle, you don't need to touch the hub stuff - unless you want to. Point being, yes, do them all at once if you are able. But if money is a bit tight, these things can be done separately without re-doing work on either one.

 

[bucfl]

@gatormark91

Hey man, you mentioned cv shops in Tampa. Is there one in particular you use?

 

[gatormark91]

Nope, just see them all over. I think there are a couple that have been there for ages on Hillsborough?

 

[bucfl]

Thanks. Next time ill call them.

I rebooted the PS cv last year and didn’t feel like doing it again. Oh well...

 

[zhloea]

The dust seal is on the outer axle, but there is an oil seal that is pressed into the backside of the knuckle. The lip of the seal gets loose, the retention spring falls out( hard to get it to stay in once that happens), and it won't seal perfectly to keep water & debris out. Not a critical thing but since you'll have access to the back of the knuckle, replacing it is quick & easy. You can asses when you get the knuckle off. And then you can clean and re-grease the spindle bearings.

The oil seal part number I had on file superseded to 90316-72001. See reference 43211V,L in the picture

Part Number: 9031672001 (90316A0001)
OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER LEFT); OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER RIGHT); OIL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE LEFT); OIL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE RIGHT).

Interchangeable with 90316A0001


View attachment 1639002

How to press this in? I see a video of a guy uses steel punch just punch around the inner edge to get this in, is there any recommendations for this replacement?

 

[Windknotz]

I also recommend doing the drive flanges with new axles. Ye ones you have on there will inevitably be worn, and will begin prematurely wearing out the splines on your new (expensive) axles. They’re not very expensive and really tighten up the front driveline. Don’t forget the gaskets....and the beer...

 

[flintknapper]

How to press this in? I see a video of a guy uses steel punch just punch around the inner edge to get this in, is there any recommendations for this replacement?

^^^^^

Yes. DON'T unless you have to.

Maybe it was just me....but in the 50+ years of wrenching on my own vehicles....these were easily the most difficult seals to get to seat that I have EVER worked on. Incredibly hard to get started without deforming them.

 

[zhloea]

Please take a look of my seal, let me know should it be replaced, thanks

Some questions about a seal like part behind the wheel knuckle

Hi, finally got my wheel knuckle off~and I found a seal kind of stuff behind the knuckle, and its edge was bent a little bit and I use plier to correct it back but the result is not perfect. 1. Will this impact anything? or Do I need to change this? 2. If I can ignore this thing then should I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Skidoo]

For the snap rings, when you say minimal gap should I be doing something in particular?

The snap rings come in a number of thicknesses, you need to use the thickness that give the FSM specified gap. Need to order a range of sizes, think Cruiser Outfitters makes up a kit of different thickness snaps.
Of course you need a BFH and a brass drift.