Are they genuine cv axles?
Vibration under acceleration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TheHomeBuilder
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You are looking for play in the inner and outer joints, my inner joints where very loose in the diff so replaced them.
- Thread starter
- #23
Driver's side I don't think is, but unsure. Previous owner replaced it about 20k before I bought it, so it has 80k. Passenger side I believe is original, as it looks aged and no paperwork indicating replacement.
- Thread starter
- #24
Okay I will check. Thank you.
As others have said, swap road wheels and see if there's a change first.
No CEL lights indicated?
"One thing I noticed was rust and a lot of play, compared to the driver side, on the axel shaft/spindle on the passenger side. I believe the rusty grease was from the needle bearing."
I'd replace the needle bearing, if there was signs of rust, especially as there was a change in symptoms when you repacked it.
I read somewhere on this forum about vibration... and one possible cause being too much grease in the driveshaft uni joint..???
Is there any difference in symptoms in 2wd vs 4wd mode?
I guess you could (first mark position and then) remove the rear drive shaft and try it in front wheel drive only... that may help to isolate the issue?
Check the spark plug gaps?
Unlikely, however I recently purchased from the Toyota dealer a full set of Denso IK20 plugs, and they told me they were already pre gapped for my engine.
I gave them to my mechanic to install, and afterwards, the car seemed fine at first, driving around town (50-60KPH).
Went for an interstate trip, and noticed a lack of power, poor fuel economy, and it seemed to shudder, vibrate and hit each and every bump on the road - to the point I was convincing myself I'd have to replace the suspension at some date.
Arrived at destination, and checked the spark plug gaps - all were exactly 0.75mm.
I checked Denso's website, and, for a 2uz-fe engine the correct gap for the IK20 is 1.1mm...
I re-gapped them and the car runs like new, glides down the highway feeling no bumps at all.
I know this wouldn't effect the more left than right symptoms, but could certainly affect the vibration so much that you can notice that.
Not a great help, I'm afraid, but hope its of some use.
No CEL lights indicated?
"One thing I noticed was rust and a lot of play, compared to the driver side, on the axel shaft/spindle on the passenger side. I believe the rusty grease was from the needle bearing."
I'd replace the needle bearing, if there was signs of rust, especially as there was a change in symptoms when you repacked it.
I read somewhere on this forum about vibration... and one possible cause being too much grease in the driveshaft uni joint..???
Is there any difference in symptoms in 2wd vs 4wd mode?
I guess you could (first mark position and then) remove the rear drive shaft and try it in front wheel drive only... that may help to isolate the issue?
Check the spark plug gaps?
Unlikely, however I recently purchased from the Toyota dealer a full set of Denso IK20 plugs, and they told me they were already pre gapped for my engine.
I gave them to my mechanic to install, and afterwards, the car seemed fine at first, driving around town (50-60KPH).
Went for an interstate trip, and noticed a lack of power, poor fuel economy, and it seemed to shudder, vibrate and hit each and every bump on the road - to the point I was convincing myself I'd have to replace the suspension at some date.
Arrived at destination, and checked the spark plug gaps - all were exactly 0.75mm.
I checked Denso's website, and, for a 2uz-fe engine the correct gap for the IK20 is 1.1mm...
I re-gapped them and the car runs like new, glides down the highway feeling no bumps at all.
I know this wouldn't effect the more left than right symptoms, but could certainly affect the vibration so much that you can notice that.
Not a great help, I'm afraid, but hope its of some use.
- Thread starter
- #26
joshAUST,
Well i had my tires rotated and balanced before my trip to NC. Also replaced passenger side wheel bearings and races and regreased before the trip. While it did make the car smother on the highway, it did nothing for my acceleration issue.
I made the 8 1/2 hour trip down and back, and my car is still running just like it was before the trip. At this point i'm waiting for something to get worse before i start replacing all these parts.
I am planning on doing front end components in the spring... looks like i'll be spending about 1,400 per side in new oem parts (plan on replacing needle bearings to oil seals, control arms and axles, bushings, bolts, pins and nuts i'm not skipping a thing - well besides the dust shield and steering knuckle)
Unfortunately I dont have the 2wd option, so removing a drive shaft and locking the center diff is my only option for trying to isolate this. With my car being a Michigan and now an Ohio car, the salty roads makes every bolt take just a little bit longer.
I'm actually just about to order spark plugs, and 2 new denso coils. I never checked the gap when installing them when i first got my car a year and a half ago (60k Miles ago) as everyone told me at the time they were pre-gapped. This time i'm checking them as i have never had the smoothest idle. I'm waiting for this mechanic to replace a spark plug tube gasket that he damaged during some work, the oil leaking on the spark plug isn't helping my coil do its job or helping me diagnose any issues. Then i will perform that work.
Thanks for the info, I'm in a holding pattern till my mechanic fixes his mistake then i'll be doing some work myself and report back.
As far as spark plugs go, Why did you go with the IK20 over say the SK20? The price is about the same but the SK20 are rated for such a longer interval between changes. I was thinking about getting the IK20 this time around since my timing belt will be due in about 20-35k miles and that fits the plug's distance.
Well i had my tires rotated and balanced before my trip to NC. Also replaced passenger side wheel bearings and races and regreased before the trip. While it did make the car smother on the highway, it did nothing for my acceleration issue.
I made the 8 1/2 hour trip down and back, and my car is still running just like it was before the trip. At this point i'm waiting for something to get worse before i start replacing all these parts.
I am planning on doing front end components in the spring... looks like i'll be spending about 1,400 per side in new oem parts (plan on replacing needle bearings to oil seals, control arms and axles, bushings, bolts, pins and nuts i'm not skipping a thing - well besides the dust shield and steering knuckle)
Unfortunately I dont have the 2wd option, so removing a drive shaft and locking the center diff is my only option for trying to isolate this. With my car being a Michigan and now an Ohio car, the salty roads makes every bolt take just a little bit longer.
I'm actually just about to order spark plugs, and 2 new denso coils. I never checked the gap when installing them when i first got my car a year and a half ago (60k Miles ago) as everyone told me at the time they were pre-gapped. This time i'm checking them as i have never had the smoothest idle. I'm waiting for this mechanic to replace a spark plug tube gasket that he damaged during some work, the oil leaking on the spark plug isn't helping my coil do its job or helping me diagnose any issues. Then i will perform that work.
Thanks for the info, I'm in a holding pattern till my mechanic fixes his mistake then i'll be doing some work myself and report back.
As far as spark plugs go, Why did you go with the IK20 over say the SK20? The price is about the same but the SK20 are rated for such a longer interval between changes. I was thinking about getting the IK20 this time around since my timing belt will be due in about 20-35k miles and that fits the plug's distance.
Fair enough re waiting for the mechanic to fix their stuff up first.
Just to double check, both front wheels are exactly the same brand, size, age, etc, and the rims as well?
Don't talk to me about rust... mine's got a lot - I think the previous owner parked it below the low tide line.
I've had several snapped bolts during work...
I went with the SK20s as that is what the Toyota dealer gave me when I rang and ordered the plugs.
I was a little pressed for time and didn't think about options.
Apparently they are slightly better performance, so should idle better and have slightly better acceleration and MPG, although it probably won't be noticeable.
They don't last as long though apparently, only 30,000 KMs.
Looking at the Denso webpage for 2uz-fe, they list the SK20R11, IK20 and VK20.
The VK series I think are the long lasting iridium plugs - they are rated to over 100,000 KM, but are rather expensive I believe.
I'm happy to change the plugs every year or two.
I have an old ford that I didn't change the plugs in for years... and when it came to replacing them, one of them sheared off level with the block, which wasn't much fun.
Given the depth of the tube down to the spark plugs in a 2uz-fe engine, I'd hate to have that happen.
Just to double check, both front wheels are exactly the same brand, size, age, etc, and the rims as well?
Don't talk to me about rust... mine's got a lot - I think the previous owner parked it below the low tide line.
I've had several snapped bolts during work...
I went with the SK20s as that is what the Toyota dealer gave me when I rang and ordered the plugs.
I was a little pressed for time and didn't think about options.
Apparently they are slightly better performance, so should idle better and have slightly better acceleration and MPG, although it probably won't be noticeable.
They don't last as long though apparently, only 30,000 KMs.
Looking at the Denso webpage for 2uz-fe, they list the SK20R11, IK20 and VK20.
The VK series I think are the long lasting iridium plugs - they are rated to over 100,000 KM, but are rather expensive I believe.
I'm happy to change the plugs every year or two.
I have an old ford that I didn't change the plugs in for years... and when it came to replacing them, one of them sheared off level with the block, which wasn't much fun.
Given the depth of the tube down to the spark plugs in a 2uz-fe engine, I'd hate to have that happen.
- Thread starter
- #28
So i figured i would update this on what i have done, what works and what hasn't.
I replaced both front axles (This helped about 20%) boots were torn and one wasn't OEM
I found out after replacing engine and transmission mount the driveshaft angle must have changed. This caused the front driveshaft to have too much grease. The seal no longer works as it should and does not let grease out. I removed zerk and put the AHC in low to remove the extra grease. (Helped about 60%)
The right turn vibration still exists. When i replaced the axle i checked the needle bearings and the brass bushing. They both looked fine ( i already had the bearing and bushing...i should have replaced one of the sides.. now i just have parts sitting around)
At this point i will replace the driver side wheel bearings (did passenger side in fall) when i go to repack in spring and fix my passenger sway bar bracket. Then i will report back.
I replaced both front axles (This helped about 20%) boots were torn and one wasn't OEM
I found out after replacing engine and transmission mount the driveshaft angle must have changed. This caused the front driveshaft to have too much grease. The seal no longer works as it should and does not let grease out. I removed zerk and put the AHC in low to remove the extra grease. (Helped about 60%)
The right turn vibration still exists. When i replaced the axle i checked the needle bearings and the brass bushing. They both looked fine ( i already had the bearing and bushing...i should have replaced one of the sides.. now i just have parts sitting around)
At this point i will replace the driver side wheel bearings (did passenger side in fall) when i go to repack in spring and fix my passenger sway bar bracket. Then i will report back.
I was going to say a combination of u-joints and cv axles. I had a bad vibration when turning and accelerating. My CVs were dry and worn out. Replaced them and the majority of the vibration disappeared. Then, I discovered that my front driveshaft could be moved a little side-to-side which it shouldn't do. The u-joints were worn out. Replaced those and now all vibrations are gone. LandCruiser Specialists here in Austin told me that the front driveshaft u-joints wear out much quicker than the rear are a very common thing that causes vibration when accelerating. I regreased the inner and outer wheel bearings on both sides when I did the CVs so not sure if that helped. Based on my experience, I'd say the vibration issues are driveline related.
Anyway, I would think if plugs or coils were going bad, you'd feel more of a hesitation or jerking when accelerating, not necessarily feeling vibration.
Anyway, I would think if plugs or coils were going bad, you'd feel more of a hesitation or jerking when accelerating, not necessarily feeling vibration.
Glad to hear you are gradually sorting out the issue - although it sounds rather a lot of pretty expensive parts.
Yes, I'd do the wheel bearing, if that hasn't been done yet.
"When i replaced the axle i checked the needle bearings and the brass bushing" - you mean the bearing and bushing behind the steering knuckle?
I'm not sure, but I think you can replace it without removing the hub, you do have to take out the CV first though of course.
Although if you are going to replace the wheel bearings anyway you might as well pull the whole thing out.
My LC100 has just developed a noise when turning left, sounding like I'm driving over a rumble strip, that started a week or so ago.
I can't afford to get it looked at at the moment, so I'm driving it slowly and carefully for now, and trying to only turn right, lol.
This morning, the symptoms have changed - now it makes that noise (although slightly less noisy) driving straight, and the sound goes away if I turn left.
I'm hoping its a wheel bearing, but it may be the axle needle bearing...anyway, I've a thread started on it that I'll add to.
Good luck with yours, and keep us posted.
Yes, I'd do the wheel bearing, if that hasn't been done yet.
"When i replaced the axle i checked the needle bearings and the brass bushing" - you mean the bearing and bushing behind the steering knuckle?
I'm not sure, but I think you can replace it without removing the hub, you do have to take out the CV first though of course.
Although if you are going to replace the wheel bearings anyway you might as well pull the whole thing out.
My LC100 has just developed a noise when turning left, sounding like I'm driving over a rumble strip, that started a week or so ago.
I can't afford to get it looked at at the moment, so I'm driving it slowly and carefully for now, and trying to only turn right, lol.
This morning, the symptoms have changed - now it makes that noise (although slightly less noisy) driving straight, and the sound goes away if I turn left.
I'm hoping its a wheel bearing, but it may be the axle needle bearing...anyway, I've a thread started on it that I'll add to.
Good luck with yours, and keep us posted.
Glad to hear you are gradually sorting out the issue - although it sounds rather a lot of pretty expensive parts.
Yes, I'd do the wheel bearing, if that hasn't been done yet.
"When i replaced the axle i checked the needle bearings and the brass bushing" - you mean the bearing and bushing behind the steering knuckle?
I'm not sure, but I think you can replace it without removing the hub, you do have to take out the CV first though of course.
Although if you are going to replace the wheel bearings anyway you might as well pull the whole thing out.
My LC100 has just developed a noise when turning left, sounding like I'm driving over a rumble strip, that started a week or so ago.
I can't afford to get it looked at at the moment, so I'm driving it slowly and carefully for now, and trying to only turn right, lol.
This morning, the symptoms have changed - now it makes that noise (although slightly less noisy) driving straight, and the sound goes away if I turn left.
I'm hoping its a wheel bearing, but it may be the axle needle bearing...anyway, I've a thread started on it that I'll add to.
Good luck with yours, and keep us posted.
Check the front drive shaft. Get under the truck and "wiggle" the drive shaft. If there is any lateral or vertical play, you're u-joints are bad and should be replaced. Having done that myself, all symptoms of vibration finally disappeared. I had previously replaced CV axles, steering rack bushings, repacked/greased all of the wheel bearings and even replaced the bushings for the stabilizer bar. Each cut down the vibrations I was feeling. But, replacing the u-joints eliminated all vibration and my LX drives like a brand new truck.
Thanks Geanes, I'll have a look this weekend.
Do you think that, if it was the front drive shaft, the vibration/noise would be then same on both sides though?
This only seems to come from the LH side.
Nonetheless, I will check it. Thanks again.
Do you think that, if it was the front drive shaft, the vibration/noise would be then same on both sides though?
This only seems to come from the LH side.
Nonetheless, I will check it. Thanks again.
It's possible. Not absolute. But, vibrations are a strange thing. They're like creaks on a bicycle: because of the resonance of the frame, the cause of the sound could come from an area not expected. Anyway, worth a shot to check the front drive shaft to eliminate it as a possibility. Super easy to check (literally 10 seconds is all). Worst case, if you discover that there is lateral/vertical play, it's an easy fix. Good luck with this and keep us posted.
Cheers Geanes, and thanks again.
I'll let you know the outcome.
I'll let you know the outcome.
Hi again geanes.
I had a look, and couldn't find any slop in any of the drive shafts, but I got a friend who's a mechanic to have a look at it.
Dodgy upper ball joint and wheel bearing on the left hand side.
Both replaced, and right hand bearing cleaned and repacked, and issue fixed, although in need a wheel alignment.
I'm waiting on replacement tie rod ends, as they look dodgy too, and then I'll get an alignment.
I had a look, and couldn't find any slop in any of the drive shafts, but I got a friend who's a mechanic to have a look at it.
Dodgy upper ball joint and wheel bearing on the left hand side.
Both replaced, and right hand bearing cleaned and repacked, and issue fixed, although in need a wheel alignment.
I'm waiting on replacement tie rod ends, as they look dodgy too, and then I'll get an alignment.
Glad you got to the bottom of it. I was curious what the end result would be.
This sounds exactly like what my truck does. Bookmarking this thread.
@joshAUST: after your final fix, has the issue returned at all?
@joshAUST: after your final fix, has the issue returned at all?
Not so far @Slashzero...A
Although I have noticed its not quite 100% after an old lady in a new Mercedes E350 decided to sideswipe me last week.
Fortunately it was not at high speed, and it only caused a bit of a rub mark on the outside of the front left wheel, not a mark anywhere else.
There's definitely something to be said having a vehicle where the tyres stick out wider than the body.
Her rear driver side door should polish out, if she's lucky.
Aside from being side swipped though, after the tie rod ends and wheel alignment, the car is travelling heaps smoother.
Not perfect, but a lot better... and as I'm probably up for some shocks at some point, so that may have a bit to do with any remaining, and minor vibrations.
I'll drive it for a week or so to make sure nothing was damaged... I grabbed her details just in case.
Although I have noticed its not quite 100% after an old lady in a new Mercedes E350 decided to sideswipe me last week.
Fortunately it was not at high speed, and it only caused a bit of a rub mark on the outside of the front left wheel, not a mark anywhere else.
There's definitely something to be said having a vehicle where the tyres stick out wider than the body.
Her rear driver side door should polish out, if she's lucky.
Aside from being side swipped though, after the tie rod ends and wheel alignment, the car is travelling heaps smoother.
Not perfect, but a lot better... and as I'm probably up for some shocks at some point, so that may have a bit to do with any remaining, and minor vibrations.
I'll drive it for a week or so to make sure nothing was damaged... I grabbed her details just in case.
Glad you and your truck are OK!
I’ve been trying to figure out this vibration for a few weeks.
What I’ve noticed is I’m only getting it when the truck is loaded with people. For example, if I’m by myself, no vibration. If I load up my wife and kids, it does it.
I’ve been trying to figure out this vibration for a few weeks.
What I’ve noticed is I’m only getting it when the truck is loaded with people. For example, if I’m by myself, no vibration. If I load up my wife and kids, it does it.
Screw it. I'm going to take my truck to the dealership and have them take a look, and do a "120k service", since it seems to cover most of the stuff mentioned in this thread.
I want to get everything checked out, and "up to spec." so that I can then worry about maintaining it mostly myself.
I want to get everything checked out, and "up to spec." so that I can then worry about maintaining it mostly myself.
