Aftermarket radiator thoughts. (1 Viewer)

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Don't know, ~3yrs, they are in a bunch of rigs I wheel with, so far all good. The way I see it, at ~$125 they are disposable, even if it needed to be changed every 5yrs, would always have a fresh core and that is better than an old partly clogged, expensive core?:meh:

that's the price range for that 1918; so it must be that one. It depends when and where it fails thought but not a bad point.
 
Just bumping this old thread; as most Rad Threads are about 7-9 years old. How are these rads holding up?

I installed a Denso from Rockauto in feb 2017, that failed exactly 1 year after I installed it... Luckily it seems to have been caught at the right time.

OEM Rad from the local Toyota is twice as much as a CSF rad New (2 years warranty); and about 3 times more expensive than a Denso from Rockauto. Local Napa only stocks Spectra - which is seemingly not a good idea.

Just wanting to get a more relevant input; and some tested opinions.

What does your local Toyota want for a radiator? if you ask for one out of a '94 it will be a little Cheaper. I got one for about $350 shipped in the US.
 
What does your local Toyota want for a radiator? if you ask for one out of a '94 it will be a little Cheaper. I got one for about $350 shipped in the US.

they want over 700 canadian; that's about 560 USD. Our marginal tax rates are higher too, and we cannot write off mortgage interest payments to help reduced our taxable income- if you were wondering :p

that part number for yours would be handy to me.
 
they want over 700 canadian; that's about 560 USD. Our marginal tax rates are higher too, and we cannot write off mortgage interest payments to help reduced our taxable income- if you were wondering :p

that part number for yours would be handy to me.

Mine is a 3 core brass: 16400-66040

You can also get a 2 core aluminum which is a little more expensive but a little lighter weight: 16400-66081

Both fit a us spec fzj80
 
Mine is a 3 core brass: 16400-66040

You can also get a 2 core aluminum which is a little more expensive but a little lighter weight: 16400-66081

Both fit a us spec fzj80

based on your suggestion, I looked some more. I found a U.S. retailer that seems to have a good deal on that part #, also a canadian online retailer that has beaten the dealership price by around $260 CAN. This, and ROCKAUTO'S abysmal customer service which in essence put me on their "returned to sender" email list... is making the OEM replacement a very viable option. I am happy with brass; weight savings be damned; it's a better material to work and repair with if needed.
 
I'm tossing a coin between a Koyo Rad and the OEM; prob going with Koyo...
 
I went with the Ron Davis full aluminum Radiator. It is big bucks but I think it worth every penny! It is an exact replacement for the stock radiator and it fit perfect! The reason I went this way is because, I plan to do a turbo in the future and I wanted the extra reserve of cooling capacity.

Ron Davis Custom Aluminum Radiator Page

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View attachment 349997

You are my hero. I love Ron Davis radiators. I was looking at them for a different project of mine. I might order one and delete the transmission lines.
 
I'm tossing a coin between a Koyo Rad and the OEM; prob going with Koyo...

If you're tossing a coin, may as well go with the OEM 3 row brass. I've never had a Koyo, but I compared the OEM next to a CSF all metal and the OEM seemed way better built. I shipped the CSF back immediately. Beno was nice enough to provide part #s ...
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
 
I've got to throw a wet blanket on folks trying to figure out what radiator gives the best cooling, based on rows, metals, thickness, etc.
You cannot figure that out based on generalized theory.
2 rows, 3 rows, brass, copper, aluminum, solder, braze - any one of them could be made to outperform the other.
In the real world, heat exchanger performance is way too complicated by subtle design and material details.
It all depends...on everything...

The best we can do is to make real world A/B comparisons based on our specific Landcruiser platform.
Some of us (not me) have enough experience to have drawn some conclusions about what works and how well.
And, they've probably already made their suggestions here...
 
If you're tossing a coin, may as well go with the OEM 3 row brass. I've never had a Koyo, but I compared the OEM next to a CSF all metal and the OEM seemed way better built. I shipped the CSF back immediately. Beno was nice enough to provide part #s ...
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?

The OEM brass radiator on my 80 lasted 24 years. The only reason why I had to replace it was because I sat on it a few years back when replacing my valve cover gasket, which in turn led to the top tank leaking. It was an easy decision to replace it with another OEM brass radiator, which will probably outlast my 80.
 
Anyone have recent experience with a Koyo radiator?

I got a Koyo a1918 from Autoplicity in July. Great fit and performance so far. Was about $180 U.S. when I purchased with free shipping. I just checked and it is now $235 but no stock. My Local Canadian stealership wanted $740 + tax.

I would buy again.
 
I found the koyo at the dealership for 390, OEM is 750, so that's ok, once one factors in shipping exchange and surprise duties, from the us it's fine. I did find an OEM brass for 560 CAD shipped, so I'm trying to determine if the 170 difference is worth it.
 
I found the koyo at the dealership for 390, OEM is 750, so that's ok, once one factors in shipping exchange and surprise duties, from the us it's fine. I did find an OEM brass for 560 CAD shipped, so I'm trying to determine if the 170 difference is worth it.

IMO the aluminum radiator is better.

Do you have a PO box just across the border?
 
I installed a Koyo 1918A from Amazon over a year ago and I'd do it again. Cheap, works, no leaks, cools. No problems.
 

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